20 Most Recent American Standard Jasmine 3821.834.002 Chrome Hi-Flow Kitchen Faucet... - Page 2 Questions & Answers

Hi Fran: Most shower faucets now are equipped with flow restrictors. It is possible with some units to remove the flow restrictor plate from the shower nozzle. It has to be dis-assembled to do that. Regarding the lack of hot water, that would usually be a different problem and will be related to the hot water source. Hope this helps.

You could have an inadequate or blocked vent which is allowing some other drain flow to **** the water out of the bowl (but you would hear it going glug glug) So, more likely, you have a cracked toilet bowl. If no water is leaking onto the floor it must be cracked in a way that allows the water to leak down the drain (by-passing the trap that is built into the back of the bowl). You will have to replace it. The good news is that replacing the bowl is far easier than fixing the vent problem.
But before you replace it, you can test it. Remove the whole toilet from the floor. Elevate it on some blocks over a bucket. Fill the bowl using another bucket and watch what happens.

I checked online at www.plumbingwarehouse.com/american-standard-kitchen-faucet-hamilton-4040. There is a diagram that shows a seal kit that probably needs to be replaced. The diagram is really good and shows a complete breakdown of your faucet. I hope this helps.

Water heater heating element bad is the most common problem with lack of hot water.

Probably a defective, corroded or half stuck diverter. This is the part that diverts the water either to the tub or shower. Disassemble, inspect, repair or replace.

Turn the faucet to the closed position. Turn off the water to the faucet. Remove the handle. The screw that holds it on may be under a plastic cover. Unscrew the large nut. Remove the cartridge. Put the new cartridge in the closed position. Look at the old cartridge and be sure the new one matches the old one. Insert the cartridge. Replace the nut and tighten. Replace the handle. Turn on the water.

the screws are under the top caps middle the hot and cold taps

plunge drain while blocking sink vent

You will wanna get this fixed soon as it could cost you money for the water and sewer if it continues to leak, whats your question and can you post a picture of what the faucet looks like?

Make sure the water to the tap set is turned off. Remove the hot plug button, use a small knife to pry it out of the top of handle. Remove the screw inside the handle that holds the handle to the cartridge. Use an adjustable wrench to unscrew the tap handle from the base. Once removed, separate the cartridge from the shell (the unscrew from each other). Use the appropriate size and type of screw driver to remove the screw holding in the flat washer. Using a small dull needle or flat screwdriver remove the "O" ring from the valve stem Replace the o ring by just slipping it on. Make sure you clean all areas of the stem and the stem cartridge of old grease and dirt etc. Use new clean valve stem grease on the O ring before re installing into the cartridge. Insert the new washer onto bottom of valve stem, Screw on. While you have it apart look down inside the tap to inspect the valve seat. If its chipped, broken, rusted etc you MUST replace it, if you do not any new parts will sot stop the leak. Valve seat MUST be nice and flat and clean. To remove the seats most taps will require a 3/8" Allan wrench. Push the wrench into the slot of the seat, turn C-Cw to remove, CW to replace. These parts are cheap. If you need to replace the seat, take it with you to H Depot so they can give you the correct one. NOTE: Its best to do the cold at the same time, saves you the trouble of doing it again later. Same applies to the cartridges. You can replace the entire cartridge instead of rebuilding them at only a few bucks each, its much faster and easier.

It'll take a very small, flexible snake to get around two abrupt 90-degree corners.

Check the aerator and see if it is getting plug up.

Don't have a solution...but experiencing same problem on the HOT water side. Water lines were 4" too short, so I had to go back to Lowes to buy 2 more flex hoses and brass fittings (additional $25), and I have no hot water pressure, justa trickle.

buy another one and use it as a model to put yours back together then take it back for a refund.

I guess so as long as it does not leak. The position for your desired temperature may change.

I assume it is a bathroom faucet. I am providing a link to an installation guide. On the last page of the guide, the exploded diagram shows where the valve is located. Here is the link: http://www.americanstandard.ca/assets/documents/amstdca/install/Install_1816.pdf

Probably it is due to a losen hand shower holder. You need to take it out and fasten it.

What are you looking for? fiber mesh concrete repairs for floors on the drain system that you have to replace a drain in? or are you speaking of 80 pound bag of ready mix to repair hole? Do you need structural strength for the repair? need more info to help out.

It's likely that the problem is not with the drain itself, but rather with your general plumbing. It's possible that the drain isn't vented. There is supposed to be a vent pipe (to let unobstructed outside air into the system to follow along behind the water that's now drained) within 3 feet of your drain. This is so that you don't have to pull air through the drain trap (which is designed to block air passage). Sometimes these get blocked (birds and whatnot) and sometimes they just aren't there. If you have a new drain and it's properly installed, this is your most likely reason.

I think you might need a handle remover tool. It looks like two "L"'s facing each other with a long screw going through the top of the two L's . With a T handle at the top. The two L's go up under the bottom of the faucet handle, and the long screw fits into the screw hole for the faucet handle. A dozen turns or so and the handle pops off the valve stem. Cost about 10-15 dollars at any hardware store. hope this helps.