20 Most Recent LG LRSC-26922 Side by Side Refrigerator - Page 5 Questions & Answers

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pull unit away from wall look for fan that cools evaporator coils see if its running check to make sure nothing is obstructing movement

You only have by default, a one year manufacture warranty on your refrigerator. If you bought a a extended warranty, you may still be covered.

Compressors on LG's are either five or seven year manufacture warranty.

first, take a look if there is some loads that protrudes and touches the frzr door,its one cause sometimes why you cant close it well, if there's nothing, door assembly is misaligned. To correct that, you should align the door,loosen the top hinge screw, with this you can see also if you can make an alignment by pulling it back and forth the retighten the lock screw. In side by side refs mostly they use special spacer,there's a band that they call it camriser. It is located at the bottom hinge and attached. if it is already worn out or the cams flattened already you should replace it, you can buy it on nearest supplier or bring the sample.One of the best remedy is to use flat washer that will fit into the hinge pin,it could raise the elevation of the door then you can align it now by adjusting the top hinge pulling it backward to get the correct alignment of the door.Dont forget to unplug the unit before doing this.

Unplug the refrigerator from power. Remove the rear cover in the freezer. You may have to remove shelf brackets or the ice maker. Pull the rear cover forward and out of the way and disconnect the wire harness to the fan. Should be 2 screws holding the fan bracket in place. Remove these screws and pull the fan assembly out. You now have access to fan.

the best way to get rid of the water is use a blow dryer heat the tube and fill valve it make take some time but it works remember not to keep the heat in one area to long.

Normal 0 MicrosoftInternetExplorer4 /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman";} Your water line could be frozen in the door. You can disconnect the line under the unit before it goes into the door at the bottom hinge. Push the dispenser button and see if it comes out there. If it does leave the door open till it thaws. Covering the opening with a blanket will prevent the loss of cold in the freezer.
disconnect the line to the water dispenser at the water inlet valve on the back where the water supply comes in and try the dispenser. if you hear the valve work but water doesn't come out, the valve is bad. If you don't hear the valve, the dispenser switch is bad. GE makes a heater that will prevent this from happing again. The part number for this heater is WR49X10173.

Replace Ice maker with updated trouble free unit.

Several things can cause this issue.
1. Failed ice maker (overfilling)
You can easily replace the icemaker.
Lg 1 800 243-0000

2. Bad main computer. Or some one over adjusted the fill time on the computer.


3. bad water valve.

You'll need to replace the whole ice maker system. Problem exist in the mechanical box connected to the lever which once opened is almost impossible to re-assemble. Cost around $95.00

I am having this exact same problem, have you solve it yet?

the over load and relay

Hi,
It probably is not just a temperature adjustment problem.
Usually when this happens it is because of a problem with the fan that moves cold air from the freezer section of your unit to the refrigerator section. Either the fan has gone bad or the unit has frosted up to the point of stopping the fan. Try defrosting (unplugging) the unit over night and then check it to see if the fan runs. If not then replace the fan. If it runs and then stops after awhile like days or even a few weeks, then you may need a defrost timer.
The other thing that can cause this is the heating element going bad, but this is not usually the problem. The element can be checked with an OHM meter. If the coil does not have any resistance then it is bad.

You can find parts for your unit by doing a search for “appliance parts”.
Once you get the results of the search, pick a site and when it comes up it will usually ask for the model number of your unit.
Enter your model number and you will then get a page with exploded views and a parts menu.
Find the part you need and then order it.
Check a few different sites to be sure that you are getting the best pricing.
Most sites can have the part to you in a couple of days.

I hope that this will help you to solve your problem!

Thanks for using Fixya!!

Heatman101

there could be ice buildup around the fan housing, unplug unit and use a hairdryer to deice around the fan housing

Indicates Poor Defrosting. This error occurs when defrosting sensor is not over 8 degrees C an hour after defrosting. Possible causes are Temperature Fuse, Heater not working, clogged drain, or heater relay failure.
Unplug the refrigerator and reconnect to power to reset the control panel to see if error occurs again before checking other items listed above.

HI. Check your water filters date on the capsule. If it is more than 10 months old, this will be the culprit. If the water filter is not more than 10 months old, i would then advise to test the operational value of the inlet assembly.

The water inlet valve is located behind your refrigerator. Find the water supply line coming into the valve and turn it off at the source (typically under the sink). Disconnect the supply line. Remove the screws that secure the inlet valve in place.

The water inlet valve is connected by two wires. Label the wire placement on the water inlet valve before disconnecting the wires. The wires are connected to the terminals with slip on connectors

Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If the connectors are corroded they should be replaced.

Inspect the filter screen where the supply line connects. Remove any debris or deposits that may have built up using a toothbrush or warm running water. If you cannot clear the clog, it will be necessary to replace the valve (the filter is not removable on most inlet valves).


Test the water inlet valve for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X100 (if available, otherwise use the nearest ohm setting). Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should display a reading of 200 to 500 ohms. Close inspection of the inlet valve and especially the coil may reveal the exact ohm resistance rating to test for. If the water inlet valve does not pass this test, it should be replaced.

ER in temp means error code next 2 letters are first letter of part giving problem or where problem located.. if " ER DH" means def heater not coming on, does not mean heater bad but def control bad not letting voltage to heater. could need main bd also