Top 20 Homelite Consumer Products 9.0 Amp, 14 In. Chainsaw Questions & Answers

There isn't one.

Homelite Chainsaws have no brushes that I know of. Maybe it is not that. It could be a short in the magneto coil wire that goes to the switch. Check to see if anything is shorting out under the flywheel cover.All the way back to the switch.

You buy a bottle of 2 cycle mixing oil for your saw. The directions on the label apply to all mixes. it does not matter the size of the saw.

You will need to take the recoil assembly off the saw and wind the cord springer tighter around the pully as needed to take up the slack. There should be a notch in the pully you place the rope in and turn the pully in the direction needed to wind the spring tighter a turn or two. Then take the rope out of the notch and the slack will be taken up by the spring.

The best idea is to top it off when you fuel up.

It states your saw as an electric saw. So no you don't even add fuel. Your power comes from electrical power.

The original Homelite company has been out of business for many years. Getting parts for them at our repair shop is impossible. I know you can go and buy new Homelite units from the big box stores, but these are not being manufactured from Homelite. Sometimes you can find parts from repair shops that have leftover parts. You might want to call around. You might find them. George

The "ONLY WAY" fuel can pour out the carburetor is because the needle is being held up off the seat inside of the carburetor. A piece of trash is most likely causing this. Remove the carburetor, disassemble it, remove the needle and blow compressed air into it to see if it will clear it out. George

In my dealings with electric chainsaws if you try to cut wood too big in diameter the electric motor burns out and you will net to replace the saw

Try www.managemylife.com

I'm a little confused here. First I see a problem with Homelite 9.0 amp chainsaw, then you ask about an Electromac EM 200. Both of those are electric saws and don't require a "mix". The only thing you have to put into them is bar and chain oil.

take off the side cover and start over

Hi there,First wear a pair of gloves.Locate the two nuts on the the bar side of the saw they will be on the motor at the base of the bar.There should be to nuts visable.Remove them and take off the plate.There will be an adjusting screw that you need two back off far enough to push the bar back and loosen the chain enough so that the bar and chain can can be lifted at the same time.I usely have the saw on its side with the bar suported on som 2x4s nailed togeather and layiing the same way as thy bar.Note that the teath on bar are comming toward you.Take the chain out of the grouve and clean the bar grouve with air,solvent and brush or screwdriverand inspect the bar.Look for blue spots,worn spots,sharp edges.If the is blue near the chain grouve I would get a new Orgen bar with a sprocket nose if you do a lot of cutting.If the the chain hasn't been slipping then just run the saw till it wears out.If you have to change it pull the spark plug pull the pistin until it startes coming up and at the 3/4 mark stop and add some starter rope through the spark plug hole till it stops going in and pull the starter rope till it stops.Smack the sprocket with a blunt object and it should loosen up.Sometimes it's better for a shop to do this. Just reverse this to put this back to geather but check your oiler and oil the grouve before you put your chain on.http://lawnandgarden.manualsonline.com/manuals/mfg/homelite/homelite_chainsaw_product_list.html

Hi michael63549...

Sounds like you have dirt/debris in your caburetor jets,fuel passages or a diaphgram that is becoming non-flexible.
Check/Clean/Replace your Air Filter, a dirty air filter can make your engine run to rich with fuel.
Note: ALWAYS USE COMPRESSED AIR TO CLEAN YOUR JETS AND PASSAGES, VERY IMPORTANT.
Note:Before you disassemble the carburetor:
Mark each piece with a awl, or some kind of instrument that will make an alignment scratch before you disassemble the carburetor into separate pieces.
That way you will know which way it goes back together when you reassemble it.
Sometimes you can get by with priming the carburetor or by using starting fluid and letting it run a few times like that, and it will flush the gunk out of the jets,but most of the time you will need to rebuild the carburetor.
Be sure to check your fuel tank for water and dirt/debris, if there is water/debris then you need to clean your tank.
Check you fuel line condition after a while they will degrade and need replacment.
Check/Clean/Replace your fuel filter if you have one, normally they are located in the fuel tank of chainsaws.
When you remove your fuel lines from the carburetor be sure to make a drawing to how the lines are connected to the carburetor.
Normally the big line will be the line the fuel filter is connected to inside of the tank.The smaller of the two lines is the return to the fuel tank from the carburetor after it is pumped thru the carburetor by the primer bulb.
Make sure you are using fresh fuel...and oil mix if your using a two cycle mower or weedeater with the oil to the right mixture and not too much oil as it can cause hard starting.
If the chainsaw is over a couple of years old, then I recommend that you buy and install a new carburetor repair kit,because the diaphragm will get hard and that will cause it to be hard to crank.
The diaphgram may look good and flexible, but it can be deceiving and not act as a fuel pump as it should because it has become too hard and will cause hard starting,start and run and shut off, etc.
When you clean your carburetor, I recommend that you use a laquer thinner type cleaner to clean and dissolve the laquer build-up in the float and needle jet passages.
Be sure to remove all plastic and rubber parts before using the laquer thinner because it can dissolve the plastic parts and render them unuseable.
Be sure to use COMPRESSED AIR to blow out all the fuel and air passages.The higher air pressure is needed to blow some of the trash/debris from the fuel or air passages.
Be careful when blowing out the passages, because there are sometimes small rubber type seats in the bottom of some of the passages.
Keep in mind that the float (if you have one) for the carburetor must be level when you go to reassemble the carburetor or follow the instructions you get with the carburetor kit, or you could also ask the parts man that you get your kit from.
When you clean your carburetor and remove the jet screws, you will first need to lightly seat the jet screws.
But before you lightly seat the jet screws count the number of turns it takes to seat the jet screws from their original position.
Be sure to mark the turns down on a piece of paper.
That way when you put the jets back in, you know to lightly seat them first and then turn them back out to their original position before you started.
Note:
The little spring inside of the carburetor goes under the float arm.
That is where your fuel inlet needle/float valve is located...on the arm at the end.
Normally there is a small indetion in the carburetor base and a small protrusion on the underneath of the float arm where the spring will be in the right postion for installation.
The spring will set in the indention and you will install the float arm with the needle/float valve and float rod into position over top of the spring,you will push down until it is in position and then you can tighten the screw that holds the float arm assembly in position.
Once you have your carburetor cleaned/rebuilt that should solve your problem.
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electronic ignition module needs to be changed

I would like an owners manual for the UT43100 elctric chain saw and I would like to get it on e-mail as it will take forever now that we are in a strike position with Canada pos. They were slow before and now will be slower and at my age I dont have all that prcious time to waste.

Yes you do! The ratio is 50:1 fuel to oil. Be sure to use a modern synthetic saw oil available at home centers, hardware stores, and saw dealers. Be sure to use fresh fuel and mix the two in it's own container. Be sure to shake the container thoroughly each time just before refueling to prevent oil starvation in the engine. Don't make up more than one gallon at a time unless sawing is your business. Hope this helps!

I will share with you the most common problem experienced with the model 330 with that type of symptom. Due to the anti-vibe system design of this saw, the carburetor is connected to the cylinder by a rubber "boot". Should this boot become damaged it creates an air leak and will cause the saw to overspeed and generally not run well at all. While there are other causes of this symptom, too many to list here, this is the most common with that model. Hope this gets you in the right direction.

I am not sure if you have figured out how to put the chain back on your saw or not, but it doesn't take long.
1. Remove the plastic yellow "T" shaped nut on the right side of the saw (towards the front of the motor housing)
2. Remove the black plastic housing that covers the rear section of the bar and chain
3. Place the chain back onto the bar making sure it is facing the correct direction.
4. Place the chain over the rear sprocket area
5. Turn the +/- yellow plastic knob (towards the back of the saw on the right side) in the - direction until the metal guide inside the plastic casing lines up with the hole in the chainsaw bar
6. Replace the black plastic housing and slightly tighten the yellow "T" shaped nut.
7. Now turn the +/- knob until the chain is tight. Once the chain is tight, turn the "T" nut until it is tight and you are ready to cut again.

Hi, poppa530 I will try to help you out. You probably installed the chain so it is not engaging the sprocket. Remove the chain and re-install, but make sure it is engaged on the sprocket located behind the drum where the shoes are that as the RPM goes up engage the drum and turn the chain. I can't think of anything else that could be causing this problem, unless the drum and clutch shoes are not engaging any more. Do you know if the clutch shoes, drum and sprocket have been removed from the crankshaft, and maybe not re-installed properly? Can you turn the chain by hand? If not, something has jammed preventing chain from turning. Have you recently installed a new chain, bar or both? If so, you might not have the right width drive link tang or the right pitch on the chain. If a new bar has been installed the bar groove might not be the right size. You might also check out the sprocket to see if it is bent or damaged. I hope I have helped even a little bit. All the best and good luck. Any questions welcome.