20 Most Recent Homelite Consumer Products 9.0 Amp, 14 In. Chainsaw - Page 9 Questions & Answers

Hi

You need to replace the coil but first try to change the sparkplug and see what is happening.

best regards savumihai71

only had one 20 years ago they were right hand nut side an left hand into block//used the two lock nuts tightened together to pull studs//like over tightening the lock nuts clockwise breaks stud threads loose ..install new same

It's a design flaw in timberman chain saws. After some hours of use, they develop a bad habit of not releasing the clutch drum completely. And that takes precious power away from the saw. If it becomes too tight, the clutch drum may over heat and cause the plastic enclosure to warp or melt down. After messing with this brake for months, I ended up completely removing it. Replacing it was not an option for me - there was nothing to replace - it is not the brake band that's bad, but the mechanism in the brake handle of this saw that is flawed. Overall, this chainsaw is very cheaply built - Homelite used waaaay too much plastic in it!

You should have a wrench to fit the hex nut on the side where the bar is. Get a pair of gloves and loosen the nut, on the inside of the bar you will find a screw head that is the adjustment screw, while holding up on the tip of the bar tighten the screw and periodically roll the chain. Lift up on the chain until the bottom of the teeth just about show, release chain and lift up on bar again and SNUG hex nut again checking the chain as above, when satisfied that the teeth are just about exposed tighten the hex nut and roll the chain to ensure that it moves freely. That is it. Let me know if you need anymore help

The chain is not sharpened evenly. One side is cutting faster than the other. Also check to be sure that the bar itself is not worn excessively on one side. The cheapest way to test this is to change the chain.

Dan

Clean the groove in the bar and check if the oil is coming out of the tank when you press the oiler.

I recommend that you go to the farm center or chain saw shop and purchase a new bar and chain. If you are not sure which bar and chain to get take the saw with you and ask.

The bar MUST be straight. Soak the chain with penetrating oil. If that doesn't free it up, replace it. If it is kinked sideways--replace it. Never run a chainsaw with damaged parts.

The Homelite 330 has a set of "reed valves" (thin fiberglass flaps held in a V shaped holder, narro end of the V point to the engine) in between the carburetor and the intake port of the cylinder.

Looke here http://books.google.com/books?id=ISzSHyegUSYC&pg=PA218&lpg=PA217&ots=TiCmMmPbXi&dq=330+operators+manual+homelite#PPA218,M1

then look at part #26 on page 218.

basically it does:

Airflow Reed Valve engine
----> >

Their function is to open slightly when the air is rushing through them toward the engine, and yet flap closed again to stop the backflow or air/fuel from going out of the cylinder. The sucking action of the engine lets the air slightly move the reed off of the small part of the "V" and the air flows in. As the airflow is reduced the mechanical tension of the reed, trying to remain flat and not bent, closes it.

Since they are flaps there is a momentary time then the air will rush out as they close. But you not should see "lots" of fuel coming out of the carburetor.

Two symptoms will cause excess fuel/air rushing out of the carb.
1. if they are old the reeds can be slightly warped and just not seal against the reed valve cage. That means replacing the reeds (if servicable) or the reed valve (cage and reeds together).
2. If any dirt or sawdust ever got into the engine, there could be some particles stuck between the reed valve and the cage. This is usually near the top of the reed valve and once it's in there, it can't get out. You can sometimes tage out the reed valve cage, remove the reeds and clean everything. The foam seal around the perimeter if the black top cover of the Homelite 330 usually breaks down over time and lets dirt/fine sawdust into the "Clean side" of the air system. You should see no dirt/sawdust or debrea around the carburetor.

In either event you would want to make sure that when you are lookin at the part that the reeds are perfectly seated on the reed valve cage. If not, you get the symptoms that you described.

Good luck!
Stuart

Take the carburator off and clean it out. 

most of the time there is a air leak in one of the two crank shaft seals.to get to them you need to pull off the flywheel and the clutch assy.look for wet areas. that will be where the seal is letting out the oil and air.If you keep putting starting fluid in the carburator you will burn the rings,the piston and the cylinder up

Hey secureman777..........I have a Homelite 330, and I had the same problem. On mine, there is a rubber tube with a metal screen on the end inside the chain oil reservoir. The screen got all gunked up and wouldn't allow the oil to get sucked up by the oil pump. To get to it, you need to drain the oil and you should be able to see it down at the bottom of the reservoir. I used a long magnet to bring it out of the tank so I could clean it. That's all mine needed. I hope yours is that simple. It could also be the diaphragm inside the oil pump. If your saw isn't too old, they probably still sell the diaphragm. My saw is a 1981 and they don't make the diaphragm any more...............Good luck with your saw.

Hi

First check if the plug wires is conected with the terminal from the rubber boot,pull the terminal out of the boot,crimp it with pliers and slide it back into the boot(has to fit snugly on the plug.Let me know
please.

regards savumihai71

Check to see if the chain brake is engaged

take off bar and cover clean entire area w/ degreaser/ hot soapy water. look carefully and youll see a hole where the oil comes out. hope this helps

Question edited for clarity and spelling.. Please don't type in all CAPS, it is classed as SHOUTING and harder to read. There is no wiring diagram for it online. It is just a mains lead, a switch and a motor. Parts schematic and a link to the company support. https://www.google.com/search?q=homelite+lawn+mower+ut13124+wiring+diagram ..

The fact that is runs slightly longer on full choke may point still to a fuelling issue.. Does it actually Rev in those 10 seconds or does it just want to bog down and stall.?

Is it in the right way? They only work in one direction. They can also be faulty from new.

It is a dinosaur is trimmer history. https://www.google.com/search?q=Homelite+ST80+string+trimmer ..