Dewalt DW715 Heavy Duty 12" Single - Bevel Compound Miter Saw - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

I feel the same way about my DW718. Seems really underpowered and bogs down on a 45 degree cut despite a new diablo blade.

It should be fine but I also love this review by Alexis Facca on the DIY smart saw for DIY projects. DIY Smart Saw Review Magical Solution Paper Donut

Either the blade or the guard is out of alignment. You will have to check and find out which one is the culprit.

Ok Its one of your brush holders.. looks like this when burned....a new one cost $15. Mark

bad cord, switch wired wrong, or bad motor. Pull the cover off the motor. Disconect the power. Sping the balde by hand and look at the bars on the comm, end of the armature. They should be evenly colored and the spacing between them should be even and clean cut looking. If there is heavy discoloration on one or two bars or heavy pitting between a couple bars the armature is likely bad.

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Having the same problem. removed the switch and had it tested. They said it's good. Checked continuity through the cord. Good. Going to replace brushes...but then while taking resistance readings I notice the yeloo wire on the left side of switch was shorted to the white. Is that just a ground and neutral? SHoud it read that way?

If all you are trying to do is get the blade arm up so you can use the saw in the first place: Press down a bit on the entire blade arm and that will allow you to pull the locking pin to the out position -- the pin is on the left side toward the rear, smallish, and shiny silver in color... you should be able to reach out to the pin with the left hand while pressing down with the right hand.

Call dewalt. They should help you on your saw. I

You do not have to drill anything out, if you are talking about the hold-down locking pin that keeps the blade assy locked down when not in use. I have created a tutorial for replacing the locking pin, you can find it here, http://mgfic.com/dewalt708_lockingpin.htm

Go to www.2helpu.com that is the dewalt site. You might have to change the link arm that moves the guard up. They get bent over time. Check other parts on the raise and lower assy for wear at the same time.

Can't remember how much access there is at the back on that model, on some you have to take the main hinge pin out to get to it and move the top arm assembly out of the way. Not always the easiest of jobs.

The only thing to do is go through the machines electrics bit by bit untill you find out the problem. First check the plug wiring (and fuse if 240V), then check the continuity from the plug terminals to the switch terminals to determine if the cable is ok. Always worth just popping the brush overs off and making sure the brushes aren't sticking. Any further than that and you should really have it checked by a professional. It should be covered by a twelve month warranty, and if there is a definate problem I know as a UK service agent we are instructed to just exchange the machine within thirty days of purchase/delivery (subject to workshop examination). DeWalt European warranty info.

The brake problem could be caused by 3 things. The first thing to check is the brushes. Unscrew the brush caps or pull the back housing cover off and check them (depends on the type number). The brush holder and everything should slide out. They should have clean smooth action going in and out of the brush holders.Next thing to check is the switch. Does it have a clean click when you use the switch and when you release it? Sometimes dust gets in there and messes with it.The last thing in the field coil in the motor. The current is reversed when the switch is let go and slows the motor.It's probably the brushes.

there are no instructions that I am aware of but you can download an operators manual by going to dewaltservicenet.com and typing in your model number and it will ask you for the type number also. I would try before LOOSENING anything up taking some WD-40 or similar penetrating spray and after letting sit try to GENTLY move the arm assembly. Let me know if you need more assistance.

It's hard to explain all the parts involved in that. If you go to wwww.dewaltservicenet.com you can enter your model number in the search box 'find parts'. That will take you to a parts list that will have a pdf for the break down of the tool. It could be a bad wear plate also if not the lock unit.

you have a bad blade or the flanges are worn causing a runout of the blade, if you can watch the blade as it slows down you can see the wobble,

try 220sand paper on the round thing that the brushes touch then wipe with rubbing alcohol oh new brushes also just worked for me

unplug the tool and use a multitester or a volt/ohms meter to check the continuity. That is about the only way to test one.

The switch may not be your problem. Check the continuity of your powercord. Make sure you check all the conductors. You may have an intermitting break, meaning that the outside may look fine but one of the individual conductors inside the cord is severed but still could make contact intermittently . The usually happens at a pinch point or location where there is a extreme amount of movement to the cord.