20 Most Recent Mtd 22" Yard Machine Push Mower - Page 7 Questions & Answers

First remove plug hold it against the engine have someone to pull cord while holding plug an watch for spark. If it does you have a fuel problem. Its a good idea to replace the plug anyway. They are a common problem rhat goes bad easily. If you have spark empty fuel tank remove carb. Purchase a rebuild kit, very cheap, an replace rhe diaphram an other parts in kit. Be sure to clean out all the orifices with a small brass or steel bristle from a brush. Careful not to enlarge the ports. Use carb cleaner to clean all parts. Carb parts go bad after a couple of years. This is an easy project. Put carb back on an it should run if you put it all back together correctly. Making sure cables an spring are in exact places. Hope this helps

Ok. First do one thing. Remove the air cleaner and start the engine. With your finger, push against the side of the governor spring to raise the rpm's some and hold it there. Is the 'hunting' still there? The tab the spring is attached to adjusts the governor speed and being located where it is, is prone to being bumped while mowing, pushed in and lowering the engine speed. If it still surges, this is what I would do... Remove the fuel tank and carb assy.. Two bolts, one behind the gas cap and one on the end of the tank. Pull it straight off the intake pipe then unhook it from the throttle link. Now, empty the tank and unscrew the carb from the tank. Clean the carb with a can of carb cleaner. Slip the screen off the pickup and make sure it's clean. Discard the pump diaphragm and gasket. Buy a new pump diaphragm kit, part #795083. Clean the top of the tank where the pickup with the screen fits into. Put it back together. Remember to put the rubber diaphragm against the tank and the gasket on top of it then the carb. Don't forget to attach the breather tube when you're putting it back on the engine. That should fix 'er up. Also, if the rubber ring and plastic retainer ring came off on the intake pipe when you pulled the carb and tank off, snap them back in the end of the carb before sliding it back on the intake. Hope you can make sense of all this. Let me know how it goes. Dwain

remove the hood and turn the motor by hand see if it hits the coil..may have came loose if not may have a broken rod also check the brake strap that goes around the flywheel

one goes into the side of the carb. next to the engine, one goes into the air cleaner

there is a safty switch look for it the gearshift pushes it find it and unplug the wire one under the seat too if it stops when you get off the seat unplug it too if you want

same here!!!...found no compression/piston movement and suspect the con rod let go...only 2yrs2mths old...assembly prob that has become my prob!

Did the spring come off

I have the same problem with mine. I have narrowed it down to a fuel problem through deductive reasoning. Try this test. Start the engine clamp the bar (keep away from the spinning blade) when the engine tries to die push the prime bulb to keep it running. This simulates a fuel pump by putting a pressure higher than atmosphere into the float bowl spraying fuel into the intake. If this is the case the line (on mine it is a black tube) connected to the engine is clogged or what it connects to in the engine is not working properly. I am looking for a diagram of the carb and the engine that is detailed but I have not found one yet.

Please get back to me with your results. Thanks

would of been very helpful if you would of mentioned the engine you are working on... model/serial numbers would of been even better !!!

A simple check. Check the bowl of the carb for trash, and the float might be sticking also. Open that up clean it out, and let me know what you find.

make sure not to stretch it out this is critical under filter houseing is the throttle useally white plastic on a shaft going down through carb and has a hole or 2 one for governer rod and the other for the spring then a tab a inch or so away with a hole carefully hook into the metal tab and carb with out over stretching the spring

is it the brake cable ? when you release it, it brakes the engine and stops running, make sure you zip tie the cable down securely to mower handle also.. try sears most of them are made by MTD

run with gas treatment like gumout and fuel stabilizer like seafoam to rid of ethanol and replace plug and air filter ..is it a briggs and stratton ?

check under the air filter and u see a spring and the end thats attached to the stationary piece bend it to stretch out spring

Check the pulleys on the deck

Hello Bob.I will need the engine make, model and serial number. With that info I can post diagrams for you. Without that info it is very hard to explain in a post such as this. If you are able to find this info, let me know and I will help. I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/layne_0fccff498c319c32

doesn't make sense... The timing is done at the Crank. Under the Flywheel. it is Fixed and not adjustable. The only way the timing can go bad is if the Keyway between Crank and Flywheel breaks

better late than never, I have the same mower

there is no throttle control on these mowers, if you look under the air filter the throttle is balanced by a spring pulling in one direction and a lever controlled by engine speed. if the spring breaks or falls off the lever will wiggle back and forth, more gas if the engine slows, less if it speeds up. you end up going fast/slow/fast/slow etc.

The tension spring slows the switching down and smooths out the engine speed.