Sta Rite Sr333na Max E Therm Pool & Spa Heater Dual Electronic Ignition Lo Nox 333,000 Btu Natural Gas - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

sounds like manual bypass is stuck letting too much water go by the heater and not enough going through the heater so the high limits are shutting down the heater it unscrews on the manifold side

its not an error code

this whine could also be coming from the gas valve itself. It is possible for the blower to make this noise as well. Make sure everything is in place and no hardware is missing, IE. screws, etc..

If your manifold pressure is off I want to think you did'nt change the washer in the gas pipes inside the heater. It is inside the rear union in the gas pipe that feeds the gas valve. You can get one of these from your pool store or you may be able to go on line to get one sent from the manuifactur.

Try consulting the owners manual for these pool heaters. They have a very comprehensive flow chart that will walk you through troubleshooting step by step. This should answer any questions that you have and help you reach a solution.

http://www.backyardcitypools.com/images/bwp/Max-E-Therm-Manual.pdf

Try consulting the users manual for these pool heaters. The troubleshooting guide is very complete, but you have to be looking at the heater to accurately follow it.

http://www.backyardcitypools.com/images/bwp/Max-E-Therm-Manual.pdf

The users manual for these pool heaters is very comprehensive with troubleshooting. Try starting there. There are some very specific questions that you need to be looking at the heater to answer.

http://www.backyardcitypools.com/images/bwp/Max-E-Therm-Manual.pdf

These pool heaters have a detailed users manual that has a great troubleshooting guide. I would try there first. They ask alot of questions that you have to be looking at the heater to answer. Here is a link to an online version.
http://www.backyardcitypools.com/images/bwp/Max-E-Therm-Manual.pdf

1. Check o-rings at connections and replace if required. 2. Check header for cracks. 3. Remove heat exchanger and check for leaks. Replace parts as required.

Thank you for posting your question here on Fixya.com.

Overall heater life is often dictated more by the pool maintenance history and chemical usage than location. Generally speaking up here in the Midwest you can expect 12 - 15 years of service life from a heater. More if it gets pampered with such treatment as proper winter covering and regular cleaning and maintenance. Far less if chemical issues arise in a pool and are not dealt with properly. A heater can fail in a matter of weeks if water conditions are that poor.

So, to answer your question; with proper installation, maintenance and water treatment I’d put it at 15 – 18 years before the heater will have spent itself from wear.

If this answer does not fix your problem or you are not sure about part or all of this post, please comment with additional details prior to rating the answer. Positive feedback is appreciated once your problem is solved!

John

Sounds like the heater is dead, check to make sure your getting voltage to the inside of the unit, The power comes into the galvanized box, there is a fuse in there. Depending on how it was wired you should have 120 or 240vac

R9 is a boot up sequence number. If possible, remove the top disk to view the circuit board under the control panel and start the heater again, look for any fault LEDs to illuminate.

make sure that you have adequate water flow going through the heater and that your water chemistry is balanced.

This is probally an ignition control, I sometimes wish I had better news. Easy to replace But probally the second most expensive part you can get for it. Not to bad, but a couple of "C" notes. Good luck, It could be other things but if it fires in the first place this is probally your problem. Let me know how you do.

By your description, it sounds like the membrane keypad has gone bad. When the push buttons no longer work, you can replace the membrane keypad. The Owner's Manual has the replacement part numbers in the back, if you do not have a manual you can find one at the following link:

http://www.pentairpool.com/pdfs/MaxEThermOM.pdf

Hope this helps!

Anytime the heater is reading the water temp to be above what it actually is, especially 126, the problem is the Thermistor, or Temp Sensor, for the heater. This is a very easy part to replace. The Thermistor is located on the manifold, on the left side, between the top two bolts.

Sorry this is a late response! Hope that it helps!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V45_D0l2s5A https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e8RMfw4nZos https://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/max-e-therm-400-service-system-light-on.52433/

Check the control wire that might be connected to the control fuse. If that wire is open the unit will only cycle thru the board information and the sit dormant until the control is called for.

Try changing the Thermal Regulator. You could just remove the T/R as a test and replace as necessary.

That unit has specific instructions for water temp operation at 60 or lower. The display also can show diagnostic info and there are indicator lights for diagnostics. Do you have any of those showing any errors? If the temp is jumping from 91 to 104 instantly and then back down to 91 instantly, this is a wiring issue or a bad thermistor. Check the wiring and use an OHM meter to check the thermistor, it should have a chart that shows a resistance at a certain temp. There is a limit switch right next to the thermistor, Make sure it is not shorting out with that.