Dream Maker Spas Dream Maker Ez Spa Hot Tub - Page 6 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

The readout may be getting it's temperature from one of those sensors that are hanging in mid-air, not surprisingly low. Both sensors have to be somewhere that they can read some water temp. One of them probably goes into the piping before the heater so it can tell actual water temperature. The other MAY go in piping after the heater in the event of high water temp, it will shut the heater off. Look for a schematic in and around the spa.

If it's loosing water this should be a structure warranty. I have two of these and had to drain the spa and shine a light in the spa and take pictures from underneath. Then the light will show off the cracks well. If your the original owner just keep at Dream maker, they should give you a new one.

The Dream Maker Company (Dream Maker Spas, LLC) will be your best bet at finding a local service center in your area.
Email Customer Service @ [email protected]. You will normally receive a response in 24 hours. Be detailed about your location (City, State, Zip) and try to provide as much detail about your spa as possible.
Good luck!

Assuming this spa is equipped with the single pump system and the rest of the jets are functioning as expected, you need to check to see if the jets that are not working are closed or shut off. Most jets can be opened and closed by gripping the outer ring of the jet face and rotating in either direction. If the jet has sand or gritty debris inside, the jet assembly may not turn easily and will likely need to be taken apart and cleaned. Most jets can be rotated counter-clockwise beyond a detent and pop out. Others require unscrewing completely or by releasing an internal latch to remove. If you need further assistance with this, feel free to contact us.

The jet could also be stopped up with debris, preventing the jet from working.

Taking it apart and cleaning it will likely resolve your non-operational issues.

Not much to go on but try opening the drain valve for a few seconds. If you have an air lock this give you a high temp code. When you open the drain it will break the air lock and start it pumping again.

Yes, you must remove the insulation to track and fix the leak. Removal of the insulation is recommended to start at the point where you think the leak is occuring, but will probably move to a different area. Leaks in tubs like yours with heavy insulation, usually travel inside of the insulation making them appear to be leaking in one area, but actually leaking in an area higher up the piping.

http://www.dreammakerspas.com/Manual4.pdf

Did you make sure you observed the correct polaity on the cord? The white wire should go to the silver screw on the cord cap. The black wire should go to the gold terminal (brass) and the Green wire should go to the Green screw. If the plug was corroded, is it possible that the GFCI is also corroded? They aren't that expensive and you could replace the GFCI yourself if you're sure you can locate the circuit breaker and turn it off.

Either an air line has become disconnected, or the air valve on the spa is clogged/broke.
If this is a blower model and not a venturi tee air injection system, the lines on the one side probably blew off.

This is normal with the dream maker spa. The dream maker spas are poorly insulated, and only run 120 volts with a very small heater.
When the unit is first filled, the hot tub will not heat full time either. Most new hot tubs will have freeze protection below 50 degrees F. They will recirculate automatically using the friction and the pumps heat to warm the water above 50 degrees, and then the heating unit will kick on. These hot tubs do not heat while the jets are on high either, so once you are in it using the jets on high, the temperature will start to fall.

Now that you are up to 80 degrees, it should heat up fairly quick however.

Im glad it was just a clogged pump!
Anything else that I can help with just let me know!
if you feel that ive helped with this post please take the time to rate this post positively

thanks,
adam

the Ec message is reffering to the mode the tub is set for. Ec stands for Economy mode. In Economy mode the heater will only come on during the filter cycle you have programmed. It will take a while for the tub to actually heat up in this mode. Change the mode to St mode which stands for Standard mode. Your manual should explain how to do this. usually you hit the temp button then the light button to change from mode to mode. Once the St is in the read out window don't touch anything and it will except the programmmed entry automatically. In the Standard mode the tub will keep heating until the set temperature is reached. then it will come on every half hr or so to check that the temperature is maintained.

You may just need to open the drain for a second to flood the pump and lower pipes.

This is probably a bearing problem with your motor. On a above ground spa five years is a long life.
You should be able to find two main valves to shut and stop water from draining. Then open the unions on the suction and discharge of the pump. It will probably be bolted down. If you can bend your arm ten ways getting these bolts off will be no problem. If you can't swear a lot. These are for shipping so you don't need to replace them all. Remove the pump and pull the wires or unplug from main box. You can take this to a pool shop or a motor shop and get a new one. They will do all the work cheap or for nothing and just charge for the motor and parts. When you remove the unions on the pump don't loose the "O" rings, often they can be tough to find to replace.

I have had a few troublesome units over the year that did as you describe due to 'dew' overnight collecting around the tub and the increased moiture sent the motor of the circ pump "over the edge" iinto a grounded state. A leaking pump seal was adding to the problem. Once the seal leak along with the dew got high enough the GFI would sense the grounded condition and trip. Fixing the pump seal and drying/cleaning the motor fixed the problem every time. If you find any other leak sources around the pump you will need to fix them as well.

This is a GFCI and will trip at the least bit of water at the plug or at the wiring inside the spa controls. Just go through the system and make sure all is dry. Use a hair dryer in the outlet and on the controls and wiring. If you still have problems you may need to call an electrician.

Hi, you can try out any serviceman you know around you to run a quick diagnostic, but i know for sure they have their own service men that run diagnostics for them and if your display is dead as you said, i would have also recommended that you should change the LB70 because that is the only way to fix the dead display on it..

You may have a bad motor. Put a drop of water on the motor just after it shuts down. If it sizzles,you have a bad motor.

It may be that you need to look at why the water is getting dirty so fast. Do you have a cover in place. are you being careful with additives, etc? If the water is flowing through the filter, it is being filtered. If there are o rings missing or broken, then perhaps there could be some bypass. If this were the case there would likely be water leaking around the filter housing. Perhaps you need a finer filter, or simply a different brand of filter. Unless there is some heavy or abundant particle being added to your water, or really dirty feet on a regular basis, you should not need to empty and refill at all frequently. I suppose it would be good to ask how often you are emptying it, that would help with further diagnosis. we will get your issue sorted out. I'll work with you on it until it is solved to your satisfaction. Regards, Farmerbear at FixYa.com

There could be two components that are malfunctioning. I can get you the part numbers to both components. Without extensive testing then all I can do is tell you the two possibilities. The first part is the Digital Topside Controller(part # 407012). It cost around $148. This could be sending the wrong signal to the LB70 circuit board (part #462006) or the circuit board could be faulty. The circiut board cost about $215. But it is one of these two.