20 Most Recent Ingersoll Rand 231C Ks 1/2" Super Duty Air Impact Wrench Kit With Flip Socket Set And Bit Driver Set - Page 8 Questions & Answers

Look no more. If you filled it up to the threads on the fill plug, that's it. As you suggested it probably have some oil in it from assembly.

I would guess from the info supplied that the pressure switch is shutting it down at 125. Most piston type compressor only pump a max. of 175 unless it is a special high pressure unit. Also it may be shutting down on high amps, high temp etc.However with all that said Piston units are positive displacement, meanning that it should pump until something gives. Start your unit, close the discharge air valve and see what it pumps up to. May have to adjust pressure switch to get over 125. If unit runs and runs and just will not go over 125, you probably have a valve going bad. Do you have a safety lifting. if so another indication of a bad valve.

There are several items that will need to be changed or replaced. First rewire motor. Remove weather head cover. On the motor will be a tag that shows how to wire for 460 volts and 230 volts.Check the tag and present wiring to make sure they match. Then look at the 230 wiring and change wiring per motor tag. Again check the motor tag to see max amps at 460 volts and 230 volts. 230 volts will be higher than 460 volts. Check the starter (if so equiped) to see how many amps its rated for. You will probably have to replace the starter. Make sure it has a 230 volt coil. Next size the overload heaters for your amperage. This conversion is not a simple task unless you're familiar with electrical . Good luck!!! Next the starter coil will need to be replaced with a 230 volt coil

If your compressor is oil-less type, most likely pressure is leaking past piston ring. To verify, remove cover to expose bottom of cylinder (unplug compressor and let out all air). With flashlight, examine the upper-most part of the cylinder (turn motor by hand till piston is at top of stroke). If top of cylinder is scratched, then pressure is leaking past. For many years now, stores are in a race to have more HP and PSI to attract customers. Customer is really the loser because components used to make the units can not handle the higher pressure. Normally small 115v compressors are set to cut out at 125psi and larger two stage units will cut out at 160psi. Small compressor set to 200psi makes for short lived compressor. Could be compared to driving your car at 100mph all day every day. Longest life is attained when unit is being used at about 60 to 75 % of capacity. To allow your compressor to reach cutout pressure and keep working for a while, lower cutout to 120psi (pressure switch may be adjustable). To restore to 200psi, replace cylinder/ ring. If your compressor is oil type, suspect leaking reed valves.

Read before doing any Work!! I worked on more electrical than engine powered units. However it sounds like the load valve is not supplying the correct amount of air to the inlet valve.I would remove the air filter at the inlet valve. depending on the type of inlet on the unit it may be air to open or air to close. there should be a line (probably 1/4 plastic) running to the inlet valve. With the unit running if it's air to close and you have the line off the valve will probably open. If the inlet opens be prepared to shut the unit down ASAP before you lift a safety. It May not fully open but enough to make some air.if this happens fell the end of the line removed. you should fell some air coming out of it. If so replace the load valve. It will be the valve the line runs back to. I should have gotten you to check the inlet valve to make sure it moves freely by hand before starting the unit.then do the above. If it's air the open you can test by using an air tank and observing the inlet valve. if it's air to open start tracing back to the point you find air . you will probably find the load valve controlling the air going to the inlet which is again probably bad. Again my expertise is in the electrical side but the above will get you started in the right direction. even though it engine driven the airend is the same as electrical. they just go about the controls differently. please be extra careful while trouble shooting this.

Edward, from want I understand you have a drain line from the drain trap on the compressor that is blowing all the time. It should not blow all the time. Is the drain the original or an add on electronic. If it's the original what has happened is the drain trap has dirt in it and causing it not to close all the way or the float and rubber seat are bad. My recommendation would be to remove the bottom of the drain trap. I think there are 6 allen head screws holding it on. Clean it out and remove the rubber and float. You are creating a drain that will not close off. Put it back together. less rubber and float. Then you have several choices you can make. You can put a 1/4 inch valve on it, Purchase an electronic drain or drain all. I would go to a grainger supply and get a speed air timer drain. I think they are about 175.00 but not sure about price. if you use a 1/4 valve it will need to be drained every couple hrs until you get a feel for how much condensate is being made. you don't want the trap to fill up with water. if so it will carry over into your air system or over load your dryer.

I have a similar problem with my compressor. Have you had it repaired yet/ If so, what was the problem??

OK I am guessing this is a modular drive. Fault 39 is an IGBT fault on phase U and 40 is an IGBT fault on phase V. Unless you are experienced it's best to have a qualified service tech do the repair. However here are my thoughts. The IGBT fault may be caused by a dirty air filter located in the side panel. It's some where around 10" x 12". If the electrical panel filter is dirty you don't get enough cooling. The IGBT's get hot and over temp. causing the above fault codes. Check the filter and replace if needed. Next in top of the electrical and drive compartment is a fan. Make sure it is operating properly. If the fan is not operating again you get no cooling air for the IGBT's. I have seen customers open the panel doors and put a large fan blowing on the drive to cool it. I don't recommend this due to the fact the air is unfiltered and can get dirt into the drive and cause damage!. However some customers have to run and take the chance. There are also other items that can cause these faults. But as I said before determining whats wrong can be very technical. Does the display show any other # after fault 39 or 40 like 39 - 3 or 40 - 2. If so this gives additional info on the fault and tests to perform like checking the ID board or interface board. Good luck hope it's a filter.

I would look at the minimum pressure check valve first. If it is stuck in the open position you can not build sump pressure before the unit shuts down. MPCV is located on the top of the separator tank. You can remove it. Check to see if the plunger with the teflon disc is free and not damaged. These valves often seize up due to dirt,rust and condensation. If it is stuck it will need to be disassembled, cleaned and lubricated. It needs to be free enough to slide in the valve body by hand. If the o-ring is bad or damaged you will need to get a kit from IR. I have not been able to find one with out buying a kit. Next I would look at the blow down valve. It is located beside the MPCV at the top of the separator tank. If this solenoid is open it will not let the sump build pressure. Next I would check the Inlet valve actuator cylinder if so equipped. With out the serial number I dont know which type inlet valve is on the unit. If it does have a cylinder does it operate correctly. Is there any free play in the cylinder. If so replace it. Is the cylinder to inlet valve coupling cracked. Remove and inspect. Is the bolt tight at the rear of the cylinder. Will it let the cylinder move. If so you will need to loosen the bolt. Set the controller so you can see sump pressure. Start the unit and Slowly open the inlet valve by sliding the cylinder in and out to get 25psi sump pressure. Then tighten the bolt. if sump pressure drops below 15 psi it will shut down on sump pressure alarm. Good luck !!!

Was the oil changed from ultra plus coolant to regular ultra coolant during the service? If so change the oil filter. If not check the cooler to make sure it's clean and has good air flow. Clean if needed. Next would be the thermostat. I suggest you have a service tech replace it due to the location.

From your description I think you are shutting down on high air end temperature. I recommend the following, Check the oil cooler. you want to make sure you are getting good air flow thru it. If not wash it with a pressure washer. I like to use my flash lite to check and make sure I can see thru it. dont look just at the middle check around the sides. If cooler is OK next check the amont valve (thermostat valve). This valve mixes oil from the cooler and bypass to get the temperature where it needs to be so condensate does not form in the oil. Next you may have a bad HAT switch which is located on the end of the air end. If you have a meter see if the switch opens when you have the shut down. you will need to make sure you really don't have a high temp situation. If the temp is high 228 F or higher the switch is doing its job. The temp limit should be located on the HAT switch. It could be 215,245 etc. If the unit is not hot and the switch opens replace the switch. Hope this helps you with your compressor problem.

Most t-30 units rotate clock wise but there are some exceptions. The best thing to do is look at the compressor belt wheel. On that belt wheel on all t-30 units will be an arrow showing the correct rotation. The arrow is actually part of the belt wheel casting so it can not be removed.

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Thank you for posting your question here on Fixya.com.

You are dealing with a several thousand dollar compressor...the motor itself is nearly a thousand to replace...I'd suggest you take it to a local electric motor repair shop for a thorough inspection. If you still want to continue with fixing it I'd start with looking for the cause of failure of the cap(s). A capacitor very rarely fails on its own. Instead, they fail in reaction to some other system condition. While replacing a cap may get it going it is almost certain to fail again in a short amount of time unless the underlying problem is also fixed. Your motor should have upwards of 4 capacitors in it. 2 start related caps and 1 or 2 run caps. The start caps are usually phonetic (black - plastic like) cased and the runs are usually metal. There is a starting switch inside the motor. The motor internal switch is what allows the motor to start with the start caps engaged and then it turns off those caps once the motor is nearly up to speed. The caps usually fail when that switch no longer cuts them off when the motor is running or if the motors stalls during startup and remains energized too long. Check the switch contacts, the rotating assembly or flywheel that engages it and the motor bearings while you are in there.

If none of this makes sense, a motor shop can check all of that and quote repairs required to fix it.

If this answer does not fix your problem, please comment with additional details prior to rating the answer. You may also contact me thru our website at www.arrowpools.net. Positive feedback is appreciated once your problem is solved!

John

I have worked on some hydro guard dryers but they are few and far between. I did not find anything on this dryer. I recommend calling IR tech support. There should be a tag with the 800 # on it attached to the dryer.No 800 # try 1-800-820-0308 and follow the prompts

I need to know if this is a rotary screw compressor or a piston compressor. Ir makes a 2000 in both. If this is a older ssr2000 rotary I would first look at the minimum pressure check valve. It is located on top of the seperator tank. The top cap will screw off. In it is a large spring ,a piston ,a small spring and a disc with teflon seat. check the teflon seat. Make sure all are clean and slide in the bore of the valve freely. I use sil glide lubricate from napa to lubricate all parts. if the o-ring is damaged it will need replacing. I usually get a kit from IR if any parts need replacing. Reassemble. the next place to look is on the 4 " line from the bottom of the airend to the seperator tank. In this line close to the airend between a flange is the check valve. If you remove it look closely at the orientation of this valve. If not reinstalled properly it will not close and let large amounts of oil back into the airend. check for wear, sticking etc. It should be very free and close easily.

Try tightening the drive belt first. As pressure builds a loose belt will start slipping and slows down . It will eventually stop if not cut off!! If this is not the problem remove the drive belt and run the motor 5 minutes or so and see if it runs OK. While the belt is off and motor not running turn the compressor by hand. If it hard to rotate it may be bad. .I have seen both bad motors and pumps from the factory on new units. It's very seldom it happens but can and has.Also look on the fly wheel. Their should be an arrow showing correct rotation. Make sure rotation is correct. since it is 1 ph it should be. If motor or compressor is bad there should be an 800 # on the tank. Give it a call or call your nearest IR distributor.You can also call the 800 # and talk with someone in tech support.

you will have to look at the belts that are currently on the machine and get the numbers off of it or take it to a place that sells belts they would be able to size it up and find the correct replacement do not go to ingersoll rand if you can avoid it cause they are expensive