20 Most Recent Porter Cable Cable 14.4 Volt Cordless Drill/Driver Kit 9824 Questions & Answers

see my post in the tips and tricks section for chuck removal.

open the chuck all of the way, look down inside

you should see a screw down in there

it is REVERSE thread

lock the chuck in a vise and remove the screw

Try rotating the driver adjustment to make sure it is on a definate number, not in between or put it all the way to the drill position. A little 3-in-one oil does wonders as dirt and dust will keep it from rotating and engaging easly. If this does not work and the clutch is stripped, cost of rebuilding it is not worth it, usually 70% to 80% of a new one and other parts on it will wear out and you will be fixing it again. Good Luck

It could be. Check there is power going to the motor. If there is, you need a new motor, if not a wire is broken.

That particular battery is defective and falsely indicating it is charged.

There are two screw that attach the motor to the impact head andit seems they have a habit of backing themselves out. the torque of the motor cause the motor to begin rotating in the plastic housing and eventually it pulls the wire out of the back of motor.. I buy and sell tools and almost every one I've found not working it is because of the same problem. couple screws some soldering and threadlock and $$ I bought 3 for 5 $ at fleamarket last week.

try porter cable

Your best bet is going to be to contact porter cable.

push down on the button in the front of the battery and slide the battery forward.

Is the battery very cold or hot?

http://powertool.manualsonline.com/manuals/mfg/portercable/877.html

if you are a handy person you could drill the nail out providing you get the same size of drill and drill it out with lots of coutions

It is not q cost effective repair. I understand your wanting to repair it. I have disposed of several 18V tools because of the cost of replacement batteries. I found it a better solution to watch for sale and buy a new tool with 2 batteries and charger. Good Luck.

Some chargers have a thermal cutout on the transformer. They can often be accessed by peeling back the insulation on the secondary side ( thinner winding ), and either replacing the trip or for a temp measure, short it out.

You can test over the connections with a multimeter set to 50 volts DC... if the needle registers correctly, you have the + and - correct.. if the needle goes the "wrong" way,, you have + and - backwards.. ( a digital works the same way.. just shows + or - voltage)