Top 10 Husqvarna "Chain Saw - 16" Bar, 3 Hp Questions & Answers

You removed the cover while the chain brake was in the locked position.  The plier method will be a pain in the ***, as you cannot get enough leverage to twist lock or spread the spring.   I've accidently done this myself and found a much easier way to solve the problem.  Just remove the chain brake handle by unscrewing 2 screws.  Stick the cover and the handle together as they would if it was correctly assembled and twist.  You should be able to unlock the chain brake and it will now slide right on.

Replace the oil pump..Or just try to clean it out but I have been through this and it worked for about ten minutes and I ended up just replacing the pump and works fine now. They are not very expensive (35.00-40.00) and only takes about ten minutes. Get a beer and a table or the tail gate of you truck should be fine. Take off the side cover remove the bar and chain. Clean everything up... air compressor is best a paint brush and rag works good if you do not have a air compressor. Take the top plastic cover (three screws on top of the saw). Pull the spark plug and feed a piece of rope into the cylinder. This will bind up saw so you can remove the clutch. I use a pull start rope from my old lawn mower and keep it in my saw box for this reason. This size and kind of rope seems to work best. Now you need to remove the clutch. There is an arrow on the clutch that tells you which way to turn it to get it off. This can sometimes be tricky but don't give up. I'm sure there is a tool for this and I keep saying that I'm going to make something. I use the handle of a good strong pair of pliers and turn the plier with a pair of vice grips. When you see the clutch you'll figure out something to use to loosen it and spin it off. Un-spin the clutch and remove the clutch drum by just sliding it off the spindle. Be careful because there is a bushing with needle bearings. The bearings are in there pretty good and wont just fall out. If you want to replace that you can 14.00 or so. There is also a plastic drive gear for the pump that just lifts out , replace it too 6.00 or so. Take off the metal cover I think it's just one screw. When you remove the cover you may see a lot of saw dust and oil all packed inside. If you have an air compressor just blow it all out. The oil pump is right there and is simply removed with one screw. clean every thing up put the new pump in put everything back together and you should be back in business.

40 to 1 is the ratio.

That metal band you see which is preventing you from putting on the cover is part of the chain break mechanism. You were suppose to disengage the break before taking off the cover (I did the same thing). To get it back together you need to disengage the break by a tricky procedure and that will make the band diameter larger so it fits over the clutch. To force the band open, you need to first place the cover over the two bolts that hold the bar. As you already know, the back of the cover will not be able to fit over the clutch. Now in this angled position, bend (force) the break lever down (gray thing on top) until you can force together the sproket in the cover onto the mating pastic fitting built into the break lever. Now you can use the break lever to force down the internal spring and open the metal band. That will expand the stainless steel band and it will fit around the clutch. If you now push down on the back of the cover it will snap in over the clutch. Once you see how it is done, it is not so hard, but it is tricky because you are forcing some of the parts slightly out of position to get it back together. .

Either the cover was removed with the brake engaged, OR the brake was "tripped" while the cover was off the saw.
Clamp the cover in a vise being careful to stay on flat surfaces of the cover (use wooden blocks if needed) and pull the brake lever back to the "OFF" position. It's a strong spring so pull hard in the direction that would be towards the rear of the saw if the cover were installed.
Hope this helps.

the screws are on the side of the carb very small heads flat screw driver is needed as they have a cover on them it has to fit inside the cover H (high) and L (low) tighten them all the way in tight but not forcing them turn anti clockwize 1 1/4 turns try to start the saw pull the trigger and adjust the H (high) till it runs smooth then  let it idle then pull the trigger again saw should rev without loss of revs if it does turn the L (low) small amount either way till it does  hope this helps 

Turn both screws CW to stops (lightly), then back out CCW 1-1/2 turns each. This is a basic setting and the engine should start and run. Allow the engine to warm up, then pull the throttle full on. Turn the H jet screw CW until the engine starts to speed up, but still 4-strokes. Proper adjustment occurs when the engine is 4-stroking, but immediately 2-strokes when cutting. This gives best power and lowest heat. Release the throttle and adjust L jet CW until the engine idles fairly well, but will allow the engine to 'follow the throttle'. Adjust idle speed screw so that the chain stops turning, but the engine continues to run. Hope this helps!

Below is the link to the Husqvarna website where you can download a repair manual for free. Click the link and just find the year of your chain saw and you are good to go!

http://www.husqvarna.com/us/homeowner/support/download-manuals/?query=136&types=O

Hi finalproject...

Sounds like you have dirt/debris in your caburetor jets,fuel passages or a diaphgram that is becoming non-flexible.
Check/Clean/Replace your Air Filter, a dirty air filter can make your engine run to rich with fuel.
Note: ALWAYS USE COMPRESSED AIR TO CLEAN YOUR JETS AND PASSAGES, VERY IMPORTANT.
Note:Before you disassemble the carburetor:
Mark each piece with a awl, or some kind of instrument that will make an alignment scratch before you disassemble the carburetor into separate pieces.
That way you will know which way it goes back together when you reassemble it.
Sometimes you can get by with priming the carburetor or by using starting fluid and letting it run a few times like that, and it will flush the gunk out of the jets,but most of the time you will need to rebuild the carburetor.
Be sure to check your fuel tank for water and dirt/debris, if there is water/debris then you need to clean your tank.
Check you fuel line condition after a while they will degrade and need replacment.
Check/Clean/Replace your fuel filter if you have one, normally they are located in the fuel tank of weedeaters and chainsaws.
When you remove your fuel lines from the carburetor be sure to make a drawing to how the lines are connected to the carburetor.
Normally the big line will be the line the fuel filter is connected to inside of the tank.The smaller of the two lines is the return to the fuel tank from the carburetor after it is pumped thru the carburetor by the primer bulb.
Make sure you are using fresh fuel...and oil mix if your using a two cycle mower or weedeater with the oil to the right mixture and not too much oil as it can cause hard starting.
If the chainsaw is over a couple of years old, then I recommend that you buy and install a new carburetor repair kit,because the diaphragm will get hard and that will cause it to be hard to crank.
The diaphgram may look good and flexible, but it can be deceiving and not act as a fuel pump as it should because it has become too hard and will cause hard starting,start and run and shut off, etc.
When you clean your carburetor, I recommend that you use a laquer thinner type cleaner to clean and dissolve the laquer build-up in the float and needle jet passages.
Be sure to remove all plastic and rubber parts before using the laquer thinner because it can dissolve the plastic parts and render them unuseable.
Be sure to use COMPRESSED AIR to blow out all the fuel and air passages.The higher air pressure is needed to blow some of the trash/debris from the fuel or air passages.
Be careful when blowing out the passages, because there are sometimes small rubber type seats in the bottom of some of the passages.
Keep in mind that the float (if you have one) for the carburetor must be level when you go to reassemble the carburetor or follow the instructions you get with the carburetor kit, or you could also ask the parts man that you get your kit from.
When you clean your carburetor and remove the jet screws, you will first need to lightly seat the jet screws.
But before you lightly seat the jet screws count the number of turns it takes to seat the jet screws from their original position.
Be sure to mark the turns down on a piece of paper.
That way when you put the jets back in, you know to lightly seat them first and then turn them back out to their original position before you started.
Note:
The little spring inside of the carburetor goes under the float arm.
That is where your fuel inlet needle/float valve is located...on the arm at the end.
Normally there is a small indetion in the carburetor base and a small protrusion on the underneath of the float arm where the spring will be in the right postion for installation.
The spring will set in the indention and you will install the float arm with the needle/float valve and float rod into position over top of the spring,you will push down until it is in position and then you can tighten the screw that holds the float arm assembly in position.
Once you have your carburetor cleaned/rebuilt that should solve your problem.
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Sounds like an ignition module/coil problem.