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Husqvarna "Chain Saw - 16" Bar, 3 Hp - Page 8 Questions & Answers
No spark to spark plug
To rule out any problems with the switch , or the wireing, remove the starter and diss connet the earth cut out wire from the terminall on the ignition unit, replace the sarter and crank the engine over with a new plug, if there is now a spark, you need to check/replace the wire and or switch, if ther is still no spark then the unit is bad and requires replacment.
Fuel mixture for a Husqyarna
The mixture should be 50-1 with Husqvarna rwo stroke oil, it is recommended that you use a mixture of 25-1 with other brands of two stroke oil, this is because they do not know the quaility of other brands, always try to find genuine Husqvarna oil.
Chain brake broken could this be a reason for when
Pulling to one side or the other usually a result of un even sharpening. Doesn't happen often with pro sharpened chains.
Your chain broke because it was weak ... or a few other reasons. Dont fix it ... not worth it when the dim possibilities are considered. Toss it and get a new chain or two or three or more.
Many saw specialists suggest you have a dozen chains or so., Rotate them through use ... when they are done for, replace the lot as well as replacing the clutch and maybe the bar as well.
I purchased a new carb
1/12 initial settings, sounds like you are sucking air, check the hose from cylinder to carb which runs fuel pump in carb off vac pulses. some saws have one and some just **** through the intake small hole. good luck
I have a Husqvarna 55
The oil pump drive gear is an interference fit on the crank, there is a two part special tool to pull this of, and drive back on, it is not a good idea to try and pry it off with levers as this may easily damage the gear, the part no. of the tools are 502509901 and 502502601, try the web for a seller ofof these, or your local dealer.
Describe your "Chain Saw -
A couple of things too check here, remove the air filter and clean, remove the spark arrester gauze in the top of the muffler, it is held with a single screw, once the screw is out pull the tab to the side and out, this gauze should be clear and not full of carbon, clen or leave out.
Poulan " Wild Thing
It is running lean, they always need to run a little on the rich side free running, once the engine is loaded it will then need the excess fuel, it runs ok without the bar and chain because there is no load, start by replacing the fuel filter in the fuel tank, check the fuel hose up to the carb for signs of fuel leakage, replace if reqired, if the carb has standard adjuster screws, increase the H screw by 1/4 turn out ( anto clockwise ) this will richen the mixture.
How to remove moter mounts
Please tell us what model we are refering to? there are different mounts and different ways to remove them on different models.
Chain saw bogs down as soon as it is given gas but
Hi finalproject...
Sounds like you have dirt/debris in your caburetor jets,fuel passages or a diaphgram that is becoming non-flexible.
Check/Clean/Replace your Air Filter, a dirty air filter can make your engine run to rich with fuel.
Note: ALWAYS USE COMPRESSED AIR TO CLEAN YOUR JETS AND PASSAGES, VERY IMPORTANT.
Note:Before you disassemble the carburetor:
Mark each piece with a awl, or some kind of instrument that will make an alignment scratch before you disassemble the carburetor into separate pieces.
That way you will know which way it goes back together when you reassemble it.
Sometimes you can get by with priming the carburetor or by using starting fluid and letting it run a few times like that, and it will flush the gunk out of the jets,but most of the time you will need to rebuild the carburetor.
Be sure to check your fuel tank for water and dirt/debris, if there is water/debris then you need to clean your tank.
Check you fuel line condition after a while they will degrade and need replacment.
Check/Clean/Replace your fuel filter if you have one, normally they are located in the fuel tank of weedeaters and chainsaws.
When you remove your fuel lines from the carburetor be sure to make a drawing to how the lines are connected to the carburetor.
Normally the big line will be the line the fuel filter is connected to inside of the tank.The smaller of the two lines is the return to the fuel tank from the carburetor after it is pumped thru the carburetor by the primer bulb.
Make sure you are using fresh fuel...and oil mix if your using a two cycle mower or weedeater with the oil to the right mixture and not too much oil as it can cause hard starting.
If the chainsaw is over a couple of years old, then I recommend that you buy and install a new carburetor repair kit,because the diaphragm will get hard and that will cause it to be hard to crank.
The diaphgram may look good and flexible, but it can be deceiving and not act as a fuel pump as it should because it has become too hard and will cause hard starting,start and run and shut off, etc.
When you clean your carburetor, I recommend that you use a laquer thinner type cleaner to clean and dissolve the laquer build-up in the float and needle jet passages.
Be sure to remove all plastic and rubber parts before using the laquer thinner because it can dissolve the plastic parts and render them unuseable.
Be sure to use COMPRESSED AIR to blow out all the fuel and air passages.The higher air pressure is needed to blow some of the trash/debris from the fuel or air passages.
Be careful when blowing out the passages, because there are sometimes small rubber type seats in the bottom of some of the passages.
Keep in mind that the float (if you have one) for the carburetor must be level when you go to reassemble the carburetor or follow the instructions you get with the carburetor kit, or you could also ask the parts man that you get your kit from.
When you clean your carburetor and remove the jet screws, you will first need to lightly seat the jet screws.
But before you lightly seat the jet screws count the number of turns it takes to seat the jet screws from their original position.
Be sure to mark the turns down on a piece of paper.
That way when you put the jets back in, you know to lightly seat them first and then turn them back out to their original position before you started.
Note:
The little spring inside of the carburetor goes under the float arm.
That is where your fuel inlet needle/float valve is located...on the arm at the end.
Normally there is a small indetion in the carburetor base and a small protrusion on the underneath of the float arm where the spring will be in the right postion for installation.
The spring will set in the indention and you will install the float arm with the needle/float valve and float rod into position over top of the spring,you will push down until it is in position and then you can tighten the screw that holds the float arm assembly in position.
Once you have your carburetor cleaned/rebuilt that should solve your problem.
Please take time to rate me
My handbrake engaged and would
If the brake is on then the band is now smaller than the clutch drum so will not go back on, you need to load the brake, to do this clamp the brake in a vice, be careful not to damage the cover, remove the hand guard from the saw, there is one torq screw on the starter side holding it on, once off engage it into the brake mechanism and firmly pull the hand guard back until the brake clicks and loads, now re fit the hand guard and the brake,
I Have 235 husqvarna chain
The chainbrake has activated, you need to load the brake, the best way is to clamp the cover in a vice, be carfull not to damage it, remove the hand guard from the saw, now use this as a tool to fit into the brake mechanism and load the brake, it will take a fair amount of force as there is a large compression spring under the cover.
Need to know which champion
Here are all the spark plugs you can use:
Champion CJ7Y
NGK BPM7A
Mega-Fire SE-Y7C
Denso W22MP-U
BOSCH WS7F
Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly
The saw is a 385xp. We have changed bars and
Overheating the chain/bar is usually caused by insufficient oil getting to the chain, but can be caused by the chain being too tight to begin with (you should be able to turn the chain by hand), grit in the chain groove, or a poorly sharpened chain. The saw has an oil volume adjustment screw on the lower part of the case near the chain return area. Turning it CCW should increase oil flow. Oil volume can be judged by running the saw tip at speed near some cardboard for a moment--it should throw off a thin line of oil. Chain sharpening condition can be judged by the sawdust residue coming from the cut--if a powder-like material, the teeth are not sharp or are improperly filed. You should not have to bear down excessively on the saw to make it cut quickly. Hope some of this helps!
I cannot get the back
There is a number of ways to do this, either remove the clutch and sprocket, this will allow the brake to go back onto the saw, you can then use the hand guard as normal to load the brake, or you can remove the hand guard from the saw, clamp the brake in a vice, be careful not to damage the cover, now use the hand guard as a tool to fit into the brake and load it, it will take a far amount of force to load the brake as there is a large compression spring inside.
Once I install the chain
Hello manley. your cover may be warped but before you replace it try reducing the tension a wee bit so that you can lift the chain, in the middle of the bar, so that the teeth are above the bar.
You may just be tensioning the chain too muc. J.
Installation of new chain on
Make sure the chainbrake ( if if fitted ) is off by pulling the hand guard fully back to the top handle, remove the securing nuts and remove the side cover, wind the chain adjuster back if it is in the crankcase, pull the bar fully back, now loop the loose chain off the tip of the bar and over the sprocket, re fit the new chain over the sprocket, and lay it around the guide bar, place the bar adjuster hole onto the adjuster pawl ( if it is in the crankcase ) refit the side cover, if the adjuster pawl is in the side cover make sure it fits into the hole in the bar, put the securing nuts back on finger tight, adjust the chain so as it fits snuggley around the bar, with a gloved hand pull the chain around the bar to make sure it is seated correctly, re adjust if required, lift the bar nose up and fully tighten the securing nuts, after the first ten minutes of use re check the chain tention as there will be an initial stretch.
Husqvarna 350 chainsaw problen..not enough oil
The 350 had a three position oil pump, the adjuster is on the bottom of the saw, under the pump on the drive side, there is also a filter in the base of the tank, it is held with a single cross head screw, you can see it between on the drive side, between the fuel tank, it is grey in colour.
I can not get the cover to fit back over the chain
The chain brake is activated, if the hand guard is connected to the brake cover, carefully clamp the brake in a vice ( be careful not to damage the cover ) now pull the hand guard fully back until the brake clicks off, if the hand guard is on the saw itself, remove the two screws and remove the hand guard, use this as a tool to fit into the brake and load it.
I have a372XP chainsaw which
The blue button is a de compression valve, push this in before attempting to start, it will automatically come out when the machine fires up.
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