Husqvarna 23 Hp 48" Deck Yard Tractor - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

sounds like the belt has come off the from the the tension idlers
that are on the clutch brake arm bracket 1 wil be a flat idler and 1 will be a vee idler these 2 place tension on the belt for drive
and when clutched no tension is placed on it

there is also 1 more pulley in the drive line other than pto take off

it is about the middle and is a flat idler

please check website below for part diagram

http://www.partstree.com/parts/?lc=husqvarna&mh=29

select 2754 gls 2008

and go drive system

drive line and belt route will be shown


save a copy fyi

cheers hope it helps

paul

Did you carry out the correct bleeding procedure? back wheels off the ground half engine revs, five forward shifts the five reverse shifts, now put unit in bypass and same again, carry this out two or three times until the there is a smooth drive and no noise, if this does not work check the brake disc on the side of the unit is not binding, if this is ok then there is some internal damage, inside the unit there is a alloy centre section with a cylinder block and pistons running on it, if the running face is scarred then oil will leak between the two mating surfaces and there will be little or no power, this will get worse the hotter the unit gets. You can remove the two half's of the unit and replace these components.

This is an internal leak in the gear box, if there has been no oil leakage there is no value in topping the unit up, you could check the disc brake on the side of the gearbox is not binding, it is adjustable with a 1/2 spanner, if all else fails it is a new unit or a rebuild with new centre section kit.

If the deck was supplied with grease zerks, they will be located on top of the spindle mandrels. If there are no zerks on the spindle mandrels, the bearing are a sealed bearing and need no greasing.

Mine is a 2008, I think. I'll keep watching it and see. This is a digital display and it came on at 500 Hr. I found no reset hole, so that must be the answer. Thanks for the info.

check switch on brake

Check your drive belt. If you removed the rear wheels, make sure you reinstalled the drive keys.

This typically indicates a bad spark plug or coil on one side. Possibly the wiring going to the coil or from the coil to the plug. Use a spark tester to test for spark on that side. Other less fun problems are the valves on that side need adjustment.

starter silinoid bad replace but first jump the starter to make sure its not bad

it could be that the solenoid is bad i would try that they are realtivaly cheap and easy to put on make sure to unhook battery

What are the size of the streaks? and where in the 48 inch swath?

check for a area of the wire insulation that has been wore off against the frame or body of the mower. sounds like a electrical short. it may be a very small spot that's all it takes so check well

One or more of the pulleys are worn and need to be replaced. The method I use is to pull the belt away and hand-spin each pulley to see which one has a grinding sound or loose feel. (A new pulley will feel rock solid and have no sound when you spin it.)

is the blade engagement system a lever or a switch? If a lever , then look on the deck where the pulley applies tension to the drive belt for a sticking point. the cable from the lever will be attached to it and it should move smoothly in and out of drive position. sounds like the pulley is not retracting when cable is released. check for sticking of pulley arm or maybe a missing return to idle/off spring is broken or missing.The deck should disengage as soon as the tension on the cable is removed.if electric, the clutch itself is always getting power, so a swithc circuit fault is to be expected.

Sounds like you electric blade clutch is bad. I just had the same thing happen to my exmark mower. I was cutting grass and the engine just shut down. It would not crank over. Checked the fuses and replaced one blown fuse. The engine wanted to crank over but it was locked up. I looked the engine over and seen that the bearing in the electric clutch seized up causing the clutch to melt.

Have you tried pulling the hood off cleaning any oil contamination off the suspected area then start it and watch while it's clean. It seems weird that a valve cover gasket would be the failure after two repair shops looked at it. You may need to look close at the head gasket could possibly being blown forward. I know you said it leaks so I'm assuming there is nothing actually coming from within the motor being blown through the muffler I have seen these motors burn oil heavy on startup than clean up after warm.

May have a spindle bearing out.

If you have hydraulic fluid reservoir check the level or check belts for proper tention. It's a good place to start. Good Luck!

check the air filter and the fuel filter