Top 20 Husqvarna Forest & Garden No.967012396 345 16" Gas Chain Saw Questions & Answers

The plug should gap at 0.5 mm or .020" and be sure to use the proper resister plug. Do not cross reference a plug.

Before I change carbs, I think I would change fuel lines. Also always use ethanol free fuel.....the ethanol will eat and clog your lines!

Remove the air box and air filter. The 2 screws holding on the carburetor are right on the outside of the carburetor. The screws go through the carburetor through the intake boot and into the cylinder.

Same carb... Husqvarna 136 Chainsaw Carburetor Rebuild Fuel Line Repair

Adjust the carb using the two tuning screws marked H & L. The other one adjusts the idle speed 'tick over'

If it revs up fine with no load try cleaning or replacing the air filter

If your refering to the Walbro carb and the little red anti tamper caps then they can be a pain. If you look carefully they have a little tab that sticks out of them and this must line up with the cut out on the carb in order for them to be removed. I use a pair of long nose pliers to take them out, but if you're not fussed about putting them back on then just keep unscrewing the tuning screws, They will eventually break the caps and come out with the tuning screws.

Click here to see.Yes,it has one.

As standard the 345 did not have an adjustable pump, there was an option of an adjustable pump, if it has the on, then the adjuster is a three position screw comimg up from under the crankcase below the sprocket, you will see a + and - on the edge of the tank at this point.

either blocked fuel filter in the fuel tank ( hook out and replace ) or the fuel tank breather is blocked thus causing a vacume in the tank, to prove this, when the saw starts to die slacken off the filler cap, this will allow air into the tank and it should pick up again, the breather is pressed into the tank on the r/h side rear.

Some fuel types are very aggresive and will attack the material the hose is made of, the only answer is to replace the hose, and if required use a small clip or tie strap around the hose connection to ensure it does not come off.

Not all 345 machines had an adjustable oiler, it is retro fittable if it does not, however if it hs an adjuster, the screw is located on the bottom of the saw between the cranckcase and the fuel tank, just below the sprocket, there will be an oil symbol and a - and + sign there, the pump is three position, for 13/15/18" bars.

Not all 345 machines had a adjustable oiler as standard, they were retro fittable, if it has an adjustable pump there will be a screw head under the crankcase below the sprocket, you will see a + and - sign on the fuel tank with an oil drop.

Not too sure what spec you need, so here is the main things.
Bore 45mm
Stroke 34mm
Idle speed 2700rpm
Max top speed 13800rpm
Max power 3.0KW@9300 rpm
Weight 5.4KG without bar
Sound power level 112 dba
Sound pressure level 100dba
Vibration levels, top handle 4.0 m/s2, rear handle 8.2 m/s2
Bar and chain options, 13" 15" 18"
Chain pitch .352
Gauge .058

In simple terms here we go, turn both L screw and H screw fully in until they stop ( clock wise ) now turn the L scew out one and a half turns out, and the H screw one and a quarter turns out, start the saw ans warm up the engine, allow the saw to idle, if need be turn the idle screw in to gain a slightly fast idle, start to turn the L screw in, the revs will start to increse as the mixture leans off, thet will reach a point where the engine then starts to die because it is too len, at this point unscrew the screw quarter turn, check the machine revs up clean, if there is a hesitation unscrew the jet a smaal bit at a time until it revs clean, now adjust the idle screw so the engine idles without the cutting chain rotating around the bar, the H screw should be about right however if it sounds too rich at full throttle srew the jet in a small amount until it sounds right, the maximum rpm should not exceed 13500, this should realy be check with a rev counter, if the engine revs too high there is a fear that it will over heat and seize.

Depends on what model we are talking about, if it is a 340/345/350 you need to remove the fuel tank, the cylinder bolts are on the bottom of the crankcase, the crank is sanwiched between the cylinder and the tank assembly, so it is a full strip down to remove the cylinder.

When you say re adjust back to basic settings, are they actually vibratinh out? it maybe the springs have become weak and allowing them to move due to the vibration of the saw.

hi there

the base settings for hi and lo are 1 & 1/4 turn out from lightly seated

but make the hi setting just a fracrtion richer at top speed no load it should putter or 4 stroke slightly and the lo one should be about right buyt should pick off nicly when you stab the throttle quickly with no hesitation

note do not sett hi mixture setting to lean 2 top nol load or when you place it under lood it will lean out further and destroy the piston and rings

cheers pauly46

Check the sprocket to see if it has very deep groves wore into it.The chain might be getting in and out of the worn grove making it get tight.You also might not be getting enough oil to the chain.If the sprockets ok try cleaning the bar grove out with something like a small flat blade screw driver.There are small oil holes near the bar bolt holes.they need to be cleaned out every so offten.Blowing it out with compressed air helps .You should also flip the bar over every 2 to 3 hours of use.So it doesen't get wore bad on one side.Also try running the saw with the bar off to see if oil is coming out ok.If not your screen inside the oil tank might be plugged up.