This is a normal response if the engine is cold. Make sure that it is warmed up by using partial choke. If it still has problems, check the fuel lines and filter (in the tank) for condition, the carburetor is mounted tightly and all of it's screws are tight. Make sure the air cleaner is installed correctly. Make sure the muffler is not clogged. If none of this helps, try turning the L and H needles on the carburetor about 1/8 turn each CCW (choke off). The L needle should be set so that the engine will 'follow the throttle'. The H needle should be set so that the engine 4-strokes at full throttle, yet immediately 2-strokes when cutting. Hope this helps!
I would start with both the "H" and "L" needle valves at 1.0 turns CCW from lightly seated then adjust for performance as follows: Carburetor Adjustment by Madsens.com http://www.madsens1.com/saw%20carb%20tune.htm
CW is leaner; to lean will destroy the saw. If over tightened closed (CW) the adjustment screw faces are easily marred; marred adjustments are difficult to impossible to set properly.
Clean the air filter; adjusting with a dirty filter can cause a run lean condition once cleaned and the saw run. If the saw cannot exhale it cannot inhale.
Clean the spark arrestor and muffler; if the saw cannot exhale it cannot inhale.
There are 2 wav (sound - idle & full - may not be highlighted) files that I find most helpful, I think you will too.
HusqvarnaUSA.com http://www.husqvarna.com/us/homeowner/support/download-manuals/ Enter the 3 digit model number (no XPs, Es, just the numbers) Serial number decode – useful when downloading IPLs and Manuals 06 1500198 06 = year produced – 2006 (single digit before 2000; please contact Husqvarna for single digit clarification) 15 = week produced – March 00198 = 198th unit Husky produced that week
If you have more questions or need additional help please reply below and I will get back to you. Thank you for using FixYa and Good Luck. HTH Lou
I think your "L" adjustment is off by a little, but because it will not hurt, costs nothing, and might be the cause of this, remove, clean and reinstall the muffler and spark arrestor. If the problem persists try this, it is by far the best carburetor adjustment I have found. Carburetor Adjustment by Madsens.com http://www.madsens1.com/saw%20carb%20tune.htm CW is leaner; to lean will destroy the saw. If over tightened closed (CW) the adjustment screw faces are easily marred; marred adjustments are difficult to impossible to set properly. Clean the air filter; adjusting with a dirty filter can cause a run lean condition once cleaned and the saw run. There are 2 wav (sound - idle & full – may not be highlighted) files that I find most helpful, I think you will too. Good Luck. HTH Lou
If in the USA I would tell you to thank the EPA. I suspect you are in the UK, I do not know who to throw rocks at there. Some newer carburetors no longer have springs to maintain the needle settings, without the caps adjustment becomes a constant nightmare. There are tools available through eBay (search for Walbro tool).
Husky starting point "H" and "L" 1 turn CCW from lightly seated. If running and you just want to tweak it a little just follow this. it is the most helpful adjustment procedure I have found. Carburetor Adjustment by Madsens.com http://www.madsens1.com/saw%20carb%20tune.htm CW is leaner; to lean will destroy the saw. If over tightened closed (CW) the adjustment screw faces are easily marred; marred adjustments are difficult to impossible to set properly. Clean the air filter; adjusting with a dirty filter can cause a run lean condition once cleaned and the saw run. There are 2 wav (sound - idle & full – may not be highlighted) files that I find most helpful, I think you will too. HTH Lou Constant tweaking may be camouflaging an air leak. Pressure tests are the only sure way to diagnose those. Air leaks undetected may destroy your saw.
HusqvarnaUSA.com http://www.husqvarna.com/us/homeowner/support/download-manuals/ Enter the 3 digit model number (no XPs, Es, just the numbers) Serial number decode – useful when downloading IPLs and Manuals 06 1500198 06 = year produced – 2006 (single digit before 2000) 15 = week produced - March 00198 = 198th unit Husky produced that week
HTH
Lou
It has an out board clutch, please view this it is essentially the same. R² Drive Link Outboard Clutch by Drivelink.blogspot.com http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cdqkIuVNUQc
Check the IPL for your saw to see if any special tools are needed.
There are metal piston stops available, when square (almost never) with the piston top these work well, if not square they have been known to punch through the piston. I suggest a length of starter cord or nylon rope be used instead of the piston stop (retain 6" ± so you can remove it). Make sure the piston is near the top of the cylinder before feeding the cord or it can fall through the exhaust port and damage the piston as it rises.
Everyone I have ever removed had a left handed thread (tighten it to loosen it). Let us know how it worked for you.
IPL and operator's manual download HusqvarnaUSA.com http://www.husqvarna.com/us/homeowner/support/download-manuals/ Enter the 3 digit model number (no XPs, Es, just the numbers) Serial number decode – useful when downloading IPLs and Manuals 06 1500198 06 = year produced – 2006 (single digit before 2000) 15 = week produced - March 00198 = 198th unit Husky produced that week
Yea you can put them back to where they are supposed to be. If you have or can find the manual for it, it will say in there what they shoud be set at. Turn them both in all the way and the one with the L turn it out one full turn and a quarter. the H should be turned out one and a half turns. If you cant figure it out, a dealer will quickly tune it for you.
Check the fuel lines for cracks/breaks. If they are o.k., then:
You willneed to disassemble the carburetor and spray with carb.cleaner.Makesure the small screen is free of debris. (Should be able to see daylightthrough it.)
You can find an answer to your question here: HusqvarnaUSA.com http://www.husqvarna.com/us/homeowner/support/download-manuals/ Uncheck "Manuals" check "Illustrated parts lists" I think your answer is on detail "J" pns 503 60 04-01 and 501 62 98-01. All fuel system components can be found on these illustrations. I wish Husqvarna included nomenclatures but they don't. Your local Husky may be able to verify by telephone these are indeed your fuel vent.
Enter the 3 digit model number (no XPs, Es, just the numbers) Serial number decode – for use with IPL 06 1500198 06 = year produced – 2006 (single digit before 2000) 15 = week produced - March 00198 = 198th unit Husky produced that week
It might be a good idea to save a copy of both your Manual and the IPL to your computer. HTH Lou
Are you using bar oil? Is it less than 2 years old (warranted)? Did the chain come off and hit the tank? I think your saw may have been impacted and the oil tank is broken. I didn't see an oil vent on the IPL but if the filler is on the bottom of the saw and you must lay it on its side to fill there must be one. Take it and your bar oil with you and stop by your friendly neighborhood Husky dealer. Ask what they think the problem might be. You might be pleasantly surprised. Purchase some 2 cycle oil, a new chain, some bar oil, something. When time for a new saw remember how they treated you.
HusqvarnaUSA.com http://www.husqvarna.com/us/homeowner/support/download-manuals/ Enter the 3 digit model number (no XPs, Es, just the numbers) Serial number decode – for use with IPL 06 1500198 06 = year produced – 2006 (single digit before 2000) 15 = week produced - March 00198 = 198th unit Husky produced that week
An IPL (exploded parts list) displays fuel system routing. The fuel routing on these saws is among some of best illustrations offered by Husky. The site was having a problem when I checked so be patient. Just type 345 (nothing additional) in the model number, remember to check "Illustrated parts lists" here: HusqvarnaUSA.com http://www.husqvarna.com/us/homeowner/support/download-manuals/ Serial number decode – for use with IPL 06 1500198 06 = year produced – 2006 (single digit before 2000) 15 = week produced - March 00198 = 198th unit Husky that week Gl Lou
turn both carb adj. screws out 1 1/2 turns from bottom and then fine tune them with it running. the one marked L is for low speed and the one marked H is for high speed. hope this helps
You didn't mention the type of saw you had if it's even indeed a saw. I have found solutions for issues such as yours. First of all have you heard of vapour lock? Some smaller saws with the gas tanks in the front next to the cutter bar get extremely hot and when it runs out of gas and you refill it (let it cool down first), it may have a little vapour lock and sometimes vapour lock is hard to clear up. Give it full throttle with no choke on when you pull the starter rope. This may help. Also have someone qualified to test the ignition spark. Also, these smaller saws will run hot and the module breaks down. This is not a nice problem because there are so many factors affecting it to have this problem. Good luck with your unit.
You may have a problem with blockage in the oiler system somewhere. Try emptying out all of the bar oil and swishing some gas around in the bar oil tank to clean it out. This will work some of the time. Sometimes you have to take the oiler off and blow thru the lines into the tank,( make sure the oil fill cap is off) and blow into the oil tank out thru the line to clear out any debris . The adjustment for the oil pump should be on the bottom of the saw. Here is the manual with the procedure on page 32 of the manual. Hope that helps you. http://weborder.husqvarna.com/order_static/doc/HOUS/HOUS2004/HOUS2004_1140235-95.pdf
are you working on a stihl saw or husqvarna saw.they are two differant types of saws.let me know what you are working on and i'll be glad to help you out.................
the problem is in the ignition coil.it needs to be replaced.it is under warranty.its warranty is life time.call husqvarna and they will either send you a new one or send you to a husqvarna dealer to fix the problem.that is at no cost to you..............let me know if this helped.................
Turn the Hus 345 chain saw upside down, you may see a little Icon of a oil droplet and a + - arrow by the chain. THe adjustment screw is not pictured in any of the standard user manuals,. but it is a small black slot headed screw over a rectangale metal tab by the chain. I believe if you turn it counter-clockwise, it will give you more oil,, It did for me. If you have the bar off, you can start the saw and see it come out the hole, that would verify your oil pump is working. Make sure the holes on the bar are clean also. running the saw at a fast idle for 1 min should oil the chain well enouth that it starts spraying off the end of the bar when you gun the engine.
