20 Most Recent Coleman Powermate Premium Plus 6250W Portable Generator - Page 10 Questions & Answers

Sounds like no fuel, check for a clogged filter, stale gas, pinched fuel line. Check air filter as well.

You need to check at the terminals of the actual alternator itself.
There should be the AC 120V +/-10% right there, then it should feed out to the electronics.
Most likely you have an alternator problem, if there is NO voltage coming out? It may have gone open circuit. Often a problem.
You need to obtain a service manual, to have any shot at repairing this unit, it's almost impossible without one.

Check what your voltage / frequency is coming out if the unit, generator outlets.

Check all wiring and fuses associated with you voltage regulator if they check ok, find a way to adjust your voltage regulator replace it. Make sure the unit is running at 3600 rpm as well and making 60 hz.

Sounds like it's time for a rebuild. Probably coming in around piston rings or maybe a head gasket.Hopefully the gasket. Easier to replace and cheaper.

Hi mxdidit,

Surging is generally caused by carburetor problems. Squirt some carb cleaner in it and see if that helps it at all. If that helps but does not do a lot, then the carb probably needs to be rebuilt. The carb could also just need some adjusting. Check for fuel leaks around the carb and also be sure the air filter is clean.
Good luck.

Hope this helps. If it does, I'd appreciate your vote. Thanks,

Handie Andie

To determine if an electric starter can be installed, begin with the model number and type of engine. The engine model number (not generator number) will clue you in on the availability of accessories. In order for a starter to work on your engine, there needs to be mounting holes drilled and taped onto the back of the block to mount the starter. Also necessary is a ring gear on the flywheel and a knock-out plate on the fan cover to allow the nose of the starter into the cover. For reference, find a dealer near you that has the same type of engine with a starter already installed so that you can see the differences. Good luck of upgrading.

You do not want to convert anything to a 220 v connection !!!! Your RV is 12 volt DC and 120 volt AC.
Use a 30amp female to 15 amp male adapter to plug in to regular household receptacle on generator. Available at hardware store and RV stores.

My answer:

This a fairly common problem & easy fix with the Powermates, and other Gensets in the same class - made in you know where - China.

I seriously doubt if the Ignition Coil had anything to do with the failure of the KILL switch, as by how it's wired in the Genset circuit unless maybe you failed to fully set it to the ON position, and then in that case you may have had some "arc over" internally at that switch contact point to Gnd - prematurely causing a bit of engine surging - as that like which happens just before an engine runs out of gas.

If your Genset has a 3-wire connector harness coming off that ON/OFF switch then most likely there are only 3 wires connected to the back of that switch. One single wire (most likely GRN in color) goes to an/the Engine Block GROUND bolt somewhere - easy to follow.

The other 2 wires will be the same color (every Genset is a bit different so my schematic only says they are #18 with no color stated - possibly WHT though ??), and one of those 2 wires goes to the #1 pin of that 3-wire harness connector, which in turn is WHT in color on the other side of that 3-wire harness connector pin #1, and goes back to the Control Board inside the Front Panel Box. The other #18 switch wire goes to the Ignition Coil Primary side. Lets hope it's just a bad switch and not a bad Control Board.

Most likely the switch contacts inside just burned out from heat breakdown, as when you go to shut off the Genset - by turning it to OFF - the switch has to take the Ignition Coil Primary voltage/current and basically SHORTS it to Ground thus collapsing the Ignition Coil by robbing the Primary excitation voltage. It's bound to fail if it's a "cheap switch design" to begin with. AND - we all know about cheap Made in China stuff now don't we?

Just so you know - you are not the only one in this same Genset boat - as there are tons of people out there with far worse Powermate problems then just a simple switch problem like you have there. Count your blessings!

You are right about Powermate being out of business though, but not all hope is lost there either when you read everything farther below - as to factory service and parts for your Genset.

I know it's a little long, but the info farther below may be of future help to you later down the road - so copy and print it out for later reference just in case you have other Powermate Genset issues or this site goes down as well....hahahaha.....just kidding.

If you choose to contact the PRAMAC people about getting a new switch, and repairing the Genset yourself here are a couple options for you. If their factory replacement part is outrageously high in price - then you have another option.

If you are handy with a good soldering iron and some good 60/40 Kester solder and acid flux all you have to get is a good ON-OFF single-pole single-throw (only 2 wire connection points for the wires) toggle switch rated at 120 VAC or 12-24 VDC, and at least 10-15 amps rated, and just do it yourself. $5 part worst case!!

DO NOT use a Momentary switch type - as then someone could start the Genset inadvertently - esp if you have smaller kids around!!

Just make sure you get a good solder connection on the wires and the switch tabs, and make sure you tin both the wires and the switch tabs first to get good results. If the switch doesn't fit the old hole perfectly you may have to do a bit of modification work there.

Sorry - I can't help you out there. Make sure you mark the switch as to ON & OFF - unless you find one with a metal ON-OFF backplate like some come with - as there is no right or wrong way here. It's either one way or the other depending on how you mount the switch to personal preference. Right - Left or Up - Down.

Test the switch first before final mounting by firing the Gennie in whichever is the ON position so you know which is which, and make sure it kills the Gennie when you flip the switch in the opposite direction. That's is all there is to it. You're done!!

Hopefully like I said before the Ignition Coil is OK and so to is the Control Board otherwise I know I'll be hearing back from you soon.

Please post me a reply as to finding this solution being the best resolve to your Genset problem there by following my recommendations above. Also please rate my troubleshooting fix as well.

Keep me posted and I'll follow up as well.

Best regards,

Frank

Yes, scrap it and buy a new non-Colman generator.

-Mark

Excite the genset.

with the gen engine running,
1) plug a 3/8 drill into an outlet,
(make sure the drill is set to the forward rotation)
2) hold the trigger in the run position
3) by hand, rotate the drill chuck with a quick flip of your wrist.
*** NOTE: BE PREPARED !!! this will excite the gen-set and the drill will start to run as normal. I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/rolandw_c013176d62ee17ae

After four years the magneto will become demagnetized. Get a small magnet and find the spot on the flywheel where there is some steel which will be slightly magnetic. You can just stick it on there for four days or work it and tap it lightly on the steel for many minutes. Two hours should be enough to get it started and from there it becomes very strong as it revolves past the magneto's steel core. They use to use Strontium alloy to make it keep it's magnetism but they are cheaping out on all steel alloys now. When you can get it to draw in a steel bolt or some other ferrous item so it goes clack against the flywheel, then you have it ready to fire. If it has a compression release, make sure that is all the way over to start, then when it fires bring it back towards you to get full power. I left mine without gas in stroreage for two years and it just barely started. I pushed the plug-in GFCI center buttons a few times and it came to life.

If the shrowd and cooling fins were dirty the engine could overheat causing the problem of a broken rod. Also if someone set the engine speed higher that could contribute to the broken connecting rod.

Hello, yes fuel does go bad. So, I would drain the tank entirely, the carb, change out the fuel filter (if present) and add new fuel. Now, you can take some WD40 and first remove the spark plug then spray some WD 40 into the cylinder (through the spark plug hole). Screw the plug back in and then connect it back up, pull the starting rope and see if the engine fires. It should fire up. This tells us that the ignition system is good. Now you can use this technique to start the engine with the fuel turned on. What you should purchase is some in tank carb and fuel cleaner before you fill the tank and turn on the fuel. There may be some gasoline varnish deposits in the carb that need to be cleaned out. Try all the above, and see if it starts up. If keeping the unit stored for a long time, you can purchase and install some fuel stabilizer for the gasoline.
Joe

Im sure the manual will have the best application for that model, always best to read it first.

One quick way to "excite" the field is to plug an electric drill into the outlet of the running generator. Engage the trigger on your drill and spin the chuck backwards. DO NOT HAVE YOUR FINGERS WRAPPED AROUND THE CHUCK WHEN DOING THIS. IF IT WORKS (not 100%) THE DRILL WILL START UP!!! Coleman was bought out by Pramac, you can find there webpage here.

Hope this helps.

Ensure choke is turned on while starting.
Ensure spark lead is fully pushed onto plug.
Remove spark plug and check there is a spark by keeping spark plug against body of engine and cranking engine, if no spark check there are no broken wires in ignition circuit.
Loosen bolt on float bowl. Fuel should start leaking from around top rim of bowl, if it doesn't then there is a restriction somewhere in fuel line or float valve is blocked in bowl.