20 Most Recent Frigidaire Electric Dryer Questions & Answers

One of the buttons is stuck closed or shorted. Enter the function test mode and perform the button test to determine which button is stuck or shorted. When determined which button, try to free or unstuck the button then perform the test again. Replace the user interface board when the button is freed but the code still exists.

Press and hold the SELECT and CANCEL buttons simultaneously for 6 seconds to reset the control. When resetting is successful, the buzzer will sound and "rES" will be shown briefly in the display, and then immediately rotate the cycle selector knob 5 turns in the counterclockwise direction to the second position from the bottom.

Press and hold the OPTIONS and CANCEL buttons simultaneously for 2 seconds to enter test mode; the buzzer will sound 3 times and all of the LEDs will flash rapidly.

Rotate the cycle selector knob 4 times in the clockwise direction to enter button test. Press the buttons one at a time and observe the LEDs corresponding to that button light up. The LEDs should light up; otherwise the button is stuck.

Press and hold the SELECT and CANCEL buttons simultaneously for 6 seconds to exit test mode.

PF is showing you that there is a power problem. Check your dryer circuit breaker at the power panel. This can be a sing that one of the 2 breakers has tripped. Push the CB hard to OFF and then back to ON. Then try and start your dryer. If that does not work just respond here and I will help you.

Try selecting "No Heat" after resetting the CB and see if the dryer starts. If it does you could have a bad heating element that caused the breaker to trip to begin with. Sometimes when the heating element fails the broken link will contact the chassis and cause the CB to trip. Heating element failures are usually caused by poor airflow. You may want to look for any signs of lint in your dryer to include the lint filter area and all the way to the outside wall exhaust point.

Kelly

You are going to need a new timer for the dryer.

This should help .... Frigidaire Dryer Error Code E68 How to Troubleshoot and Repair Good luck on your trouble shooting!

There is a piece of felt with 3 pads on it that the drum rides on. Those pads wear over time. It is located near top of door panel. That panel will need to be removed to replace felt.

Are you mechanically inclined? You may have several problems. 1st, heating element is most likely burnt out. Then I would check ball and socket assembly that back of drum fits into. Also check felt in front of machine that drum rides on. May need competent service person on this.

Good Afternoon Melissa, thank you for your post! Typically, an E61 error code is an indication of a short circuit. Let's try resetting the dryer by either unplugging it or flipping the household circuit breaker to the off position. It is important to wait approximately ten minutes and then turn the dryer on. If resetting the power does not correct the issue, your appliance could be experiencing a potential heater relay failure, control board issue or wiring problem. I would suggest contacting an experienced service technician to determine the precise cause. Best regards!

Hi,

If you are having problems with your gas dryer not heating the most common problem is that the ignitor goes bad. Even though it glows sometimes it is still not working properly.

if you dryer is gas check out this gas no heat tip....

If you have an electric dryer, you can have many different things that can go wrong causing the dryer not to heat.

check out this electric no heat tip...

heatman101

THERMAL FUSES MAY BE THE CAUSE OF THIS In recent years the makers of dryers are using thermal fuses to let you know something is wrong with your dryer. They are generally non resetting and have to be replaced. The thermal fuses are located on the heater element housing and should read continuity if read with an ohm meter. Most blown thermal fuses are the result of vent/air flow problems or a grounded heating element. Follow the diagram below to see how to check the continuity of the switch, and look closely at the switch to see a fairly close idea of what you are looking for, ok



OR it could be a thermostat. Cycle and safety thermostats-read them with an ohm meter. Should show continuity .

or lastly, it might be the Heat elements-Test heater element with an ohm meter. You will read continuity across a good element ( 8-12 ohms is an average element ).

IF you do not have an OHM-METER, then you can check these issues by following the directions below:

To check the thermal fuse - You can bypass the thermal fuse (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only.

To check the thermal cut-out - You can bypass the thermal cut-out (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only.


To check the thermostats for continuity - - You can bypass the thermostat (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only.

To check the Element: Try removing element and physically looking at the element wire for a break in the wire.

Do not forget to rate this answer!!

If you replaced the control panel with the a new one with the exact same part number - check your connections / plugs to be sure you didn't reverse or swap one by accident.

Gas Dryer no heat: or shuts down soon after heating CHECK: Thermal Fuse If the air flow in the dryer is restricted, the temperature in the heating chamber can get hot enough to blow the thermal fuse. If the fuse blows, it cuts power to the coils that control the gas valve. The fuse is usually mounted to the exhaust duct just inside the back panel. You can check its continuity with an ohmmeter. If, after disconnecting the fuse, you get any reading other than 0 when you touch the leads of the meter to its terminals, it has blown. There's no way to restore it -- you'll have to install a replacement. Igniter and Gas Valve Coils TEST with a multi meter: The igniter is an electric conductor that works like the element in an electric heater, glowing hot enough to ignite gas when you turn on the dryer. This conductor can burn out, and when it does, it may glow, but it won't get hot enough to ignite the gas. At times it may give a reading of continuity yet fail mechanically and not get hot enough to ignite flame though it gets hot and glows and even may show Ohms or continuity ( close circuit) ? Occasionally, the Gas safety valve and the electric coils that control the gas valve are defective -- they can wear out when the dryer gets old. When this happens, the igniter glows, but gas never enters the heating chamber or does not stay consistant. Performing a continuity test on either part will help you determine whether or not you need to replace it. But the coils should also be tested for amount of resistance as well as Ohms. As they may be showing ohms yet not putting out enough resistance to keep proper gas pressure flowing. Most coils should show at least 1300 ohms ( GIVE OR TAKE 150 OHMS). Anything significantly less Thus u get an ignition but then it soon goes back out. The flame does not stay lit. Air Flow and Heat The motor that drives the tumbler also drives a fan that circulates air through the heating chamber and the tumbler and expels it through the vent. If the air can't circulate, perhaps because of lint blockage, the heating chamber overheats, which prompts the cycling thermostat to turn off the gas. The thermostat resets when the chamber cools, but the chamber heats up quickly and the thermostat again shuts off the gas. The result is that the temperature in the tumbler doesn't stay hot, and your clothes take longer to dry, if they get dry at all. Warning There's a big difference between a dryer that doesn't heat up at all and one that just doesn't get hot enough to dry your clothes. In the first instance, the problem is usually a defective part, and things should be back to normal after you replace it. In the second instance, the problem is caused by restricted air flow, and you need to clear the lint filter and vents and take steps to prevent lint build-up. If you don't, you'll use more energy for drying than you need and the dryer may continue to malfunction. Worse, you may have a dryer fire.

ELECTRIC Dryer no heat or little heat, or shuts down to fast: Check your venting and lint basket. Check blower for lint build up and blower wheel obstruction., test by trying to turn the wheel manually by hand (should be easy) May have to remove cabinet or front/back plate to get to it) Next check the heating element itself with a meter for continuity OHMS CLOSED CIRCUIT. If not its defective or has a short if its grounding out? Which in turns causes blown fuses or thermostats or overheating. Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. 220 because if u only get half or 110 volts you will be able to run the machine which uses only 110 to run motor but not the heater which uses a full 220, Check the thermal cut off, the cycling and the hi limit thermostats. For continuity or OHMS. If no ohms or resistance they need replacement. In some dryer's the control panel relies on a thermistor rather than a CYCLING thermostat to regulate the drum's air temperature by monitoring the component's resistance changes; resistance goes down as temperature increases and up when temperature decreases. Once the drum's air temperature reaches a certain level required to dry clothes, the control panel shuts off the heater. The panel will turn the heater on again and begin another heating cycle when the thermistor indicates that more heat is needed to keep the air temperature constant inside the drum Lastly check your moister sensor. ( located inside the dryer door usually) Especially if machine seems to shut down early and clothes are still wet. Test with a meter at room temperature and it should show continuity. A failed moisture sensor will affect the dryer run time in the automatic moisture sensing cycle but it will not affect the heating of the dryer or the timed cycle. Which are reflected by the thermostats. Read more :http://www.ehow.com/info_12203962_check-dryer-thermistor.html

read the whole manual no code e61 ?

READING ERROR CODES

1. Rotate cycle selector knob to the 3 O'clock position.

2. Press and hold the Select and Pause Cancel buttons simultaneously for six seconds.

3. Immediately after, press and hold the START and Pause Cancel buttons simultaneously for 4 seconds.

4. Rotate the cycle selector knob to the 2 O'clock position. The four indicator lights of Drying, Cool Down, Wrinkle Rid

(Press Saver), and Clean Lint Filter will flash the number of times for the first digit of the code and the START indicator

light will flash the number of times for the second digit. Take separate counts of each indicator light, then repeat to

confirm in order to be accurate in identifying the proper error code. The code is obtained by counting the number of times

the lights flash. Example E24: The four indicator lights would flash twice indicating the 2 and the START indicator light

will flash four times indicating the 4. The four indicator lights and the START indicator light start flashing at the same

time. The control will pause for 2 seconds, then repeat the code.

NOTE: A letter appearing in the code stands for a number higher than nine. A = 10 B = 11 C = 12 D = 13 E = 14 F = 15

Example Code E4A: the first digit would be 4 and the second digit would be 10. The four indicator lights would blink four

times and the START indicator light would blink ten times. Troubleshoot the problem by using the chart below.

To move on to the next code, press the OPTIONS button.

To clear code, press the Select button. Code will be cleared when mode is exited.

To exit this mode, simultaneously press and hold the Select and Pause Cancel buttons for six seconds.

Error Code Label Description Solution

E10 General EEPROM

Fault

Problem with communication

between EEPROM and the

microprocessor.

Clear code, exit mode and start dryer. If problem persists, replace electronic

control.

E11 Checksum Error Problem with communications or

memory did not check, one has

become corrupted.

Clear code, exit mode and start dryer. If problem persists, replace electronic

control.

E12 Non fatal R/W

error

Problem reading or writing to the

memory or input/output.

Clear code, exit mode and start dryer. If problem persists, replace electronic

control.

E24 Control NTC Short

Circuit

Control thermistor or its wiring is

shorted.

Remove wires from control thermistor. Measure resistance of thermistor. If

reading is not 50 K (± 10%), replace thermistor. If reading is within 50 K (±

10%), check wiring between thermistor and electronic control. If good,

replace electronic control.

E25 Control NTC Open

Circuit

Control thermistor or its wiring is

open.

Remove wires from control thermistor. Measure resistance of thermistor. If

reading is not 50 K (± 10%), replace thermistor. If reading is within 50 K (±

10%), check wiring between thermistor and electronic control. If good,

replace electronic control.

E4A Program Timeout

Fault

The drying time has exceeded

program time for that cycle.

Press Pause Cancel and SELECT buttons for 6 seconds to exit test modes.

Position cycle selector to NORMAL, temperature selector to HIGH HEAT

and touch START. Check for anything that would extend dry times such as:

no heat, restricted vent, blower fan blade broken or loose, dryer installed in

closet with solid door, or bad connection in moisture sensor bar circuit or

dirty bars. If dryer operates normally but code returns, replace electronic

control.

E5B Heater Fault (no

heating)

Temperature reading of control

thermistor has not changed in a

certain amount of time.

Position cycle selector to NORMAL, temperature selector to HIGH HEAT

and touch START. Measure voltage across terminals on relay RL2 (heater

relay) on electronic control. If meter reads 240V on electric models and

120V on gas models, replace electronic control. If meter reads zero, remove

power from dryer. Disconnect wire going to NO terminal on the relay RL2.

Reconnect power and measure voltage drop between terminal COM on

relay RL2 and neutral. If meter reads zero, wire between incoming line and

relay RL2 is open. If meter reads 120V, check the rest of the heater circuit.

E68 Key (button) Struck

Fault

One of the keys (buttons) is stuck

closed (active).

Enter function test mode and perform key (button) test to determine which

button is at fault. Carefully free the and perform the test again. If button is

free but the key struck code still exists, replace electronic control.

E8C Too many trips in a

period of time.

The safety (high limit) thermostat

has tripped too many times within

a certain period of program time.

Check for blocked lint filter, blocked exhaust, air leaks around air duct,

broken blower fan blades, worn or loose drum seals, dryer installed in closet

with solid doors or door seal not correctly seated.

EAF Watch Dog Reset Microcontroller has been reset by

internal Watchdog timer. Clear code, exit mode and start dryer. If problem persists, replace electronic