20 Most Recent Carrier XHB123D X/Y Series Heat/Cool Air Conditioner - Page 8 Questions & Answers

without putting gauges on the system... It sounds more like you either are overcharged, have a restriction in your system or your metering device is not operating correctly.. hope this helps

Make sure the fan that blows air across the condenser is running. If not this will cause the discharge pressure of the compressor to rise and will shut down the unit. It will get worse as the temperature goes up.

Low battery. Remove cover replace battery. Sample If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

70000

IF ITS ON ROOF YES 3/4 PIPE FEMALE IN CORNER. IF ITS ON GROUND NO . GROUND UNITS DRAIN FROM HEATER IN GARAGE OR ATTIC, CLOSET

If it is the small wire, that goes to the coil on the contactor. It is a low voltage wire that comes from the thermostat. You need to disconnect power from the machine before attempting any repairs. Do not short the small wires or that could fry the transformer
On each side of the contactor is spade connections to the 24 volt coil. All machines use a magnetic contactor as a way to energize the machines parts using smaller wires coming from inside the house at the thermostat and inside blower.

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

It sounds like the control box or ECM is going bad.

Hi, If you can take a good light and just look at the glow end of the hot surface ignitor, 95% of the time you will be able to see where the break is on the glow surface. If you have excess to a electrical meter, you would unplug the hot surface ignitor, that is the correct name for it and set the meter for continuity. Touch each lead from meter to each wire and you will show a reading of some kind if it is good, and nothing if it is open or burned out. If you are lighting it by hand (dangerous) it shows that the inducer motor, flame sensor, and main gas valve are in good shape. I know when its cold you have to do what it takes. If the main controller which may be a control circuit board with a red led light on it, or it may be a blue, or gray, white control box with wiring going to it with markings such as TH, TR, C, MGV, PV, Ect. on it and would be right where you are working to light the pilot manually. If it runs when you light it by hand, the control box is good or it would lock out when you would light it. Check out that hot surface ignitor/ glow plug. The part number is imprinted on it. It is either a 120 volt or may be 24 volt hot surface ignitor as some models have one or the other. A tip when installing the new one. Do not touch the surface end that glows with your fingers in anyway, as the oil from your fingers will cause it to burn in half! What happens to these hot surface ignitor is dust settles on them over time and causes them to burn in have or a crack in them. Rheem and Ruud units came out with there's mounted in a horizontal position and they kept burning out fast as dust would build fast. They finally come up with a bracket to mount it in a vertical position and solved this problem. Anyway, unplug it, pull it out and inspect it very good for any signs of a tiny crack or what ever. Ohm it out if you have a meter. You can buy one at a appliance parts house and they are very reasonable. Please keep me posted on what you find. I will be here for help. I wish you the best as I know you can do this.
Sincerely,
Shastalaker7

take pics of the wires and the controles and send them to me and i can help

There is no pilot on this unit. It is electronic ignition.

On a call for heat, the 24 volt thermostat sends a signal to the control module. The control module will indicate a call for heat with a light on the control either blinking or remain solid depending upon model. The inducer (exhaust) blower will purge all gasses from the furnace and pressurize a pressure switch. Once the pressure switch tells the module to continue, the electronic ignition will energize and send 120 volts to the igniter. The igniter will glow and you will be able to see it if viewed thru the small inspection port. Once the igniter gets hot enough, it sends a signal to the module opening up the gas valve (24 volts). Either a pilot will come on or the burner tube will ignite then spread the flame to all burners. Lastly a safety sensor will be looking for a certain temperature within a few seconds and the furnace will continue to operate and the room air blower will turn on in a minute or two.

What could go wrong? The unit will not run if there is no signal from the thermostat (bad thermostat or broken wire), the control module does not sense a signal from the thermostat (bad control), the inducer does not energize (bad motor), the pressure switch does not close (blocked vent piping, bad switch, plugged condensate hose), the igniter does not energize (bad control, bad igniter), the gas valve does not open or there is no gas (bad gas valve, broken wire, no gas), the pilot does not light (dirty pilot), the burner does not light (bad burner, plugged orifice, not enough combustion air), the flame does not spread to each burner (bad flame spreader, dirty flame spreader, more bad burners), the flame safety sensor does not detect flame (dirty or bad flame spreader, bad flame sensor, broken wire, bad control), or the room air blower does not energize (bad fan motor, bad control).

In North America it is 1-800-Carrier, for more information you can visit this page

http://www.residential.carrier.com/apps/contactus.jsp?b=c

Hope this helps

If you're sure the igniter is good and the controller is sending voltage to gas valve to open, but not to the igniter then, yes, the controller is bad. The only way to know for sure is to remove the igniter's molded plug from the board and test voltage directly at the board. You should get about 100-120 vac to the igniter.

There is a pressure switch near your draft inducer motor that needs to close when draft inducer motor is running. Verify that the switch is closing. If it is not closing, you might have a problem with either the switch itself, or there could be some sort of blockage in your flue. I would start with the switch first. This switch has to "prove" before it will allow anything else to happen. The loud click could be from your switch or your gas valve. If the switch is closing and nothing else is happening, it could be a problem with your gas valve or HSI.

This could be an indication that there is an error code flashing on the control board and needs to be addressed. Most newer units like this indicate a problem by running the room air blower to alert the homeowner something is wrong. Really! Without shutting off the power to the unit, look for a small viewing port that looks into the cabinet. You should see a blinking light that will blink a number of times, pause then blink another number of times. Once you get this number, say 3-4, look at the wiring diagram pasted on one of the door panels for a diagnostic chart. It will give you a starting point where to look for the problem. If you have one. Or you could have a bad control board or shorted wire. Make sure the air filter is clean since you will be in front of the unit, you would not believe how many times I have to charge $100 to replace a filter the home owner could have done for less than $20.

You need to look at the wiring diagram pasted on the door panel to get a starting point where to look. I suspect a bad pressure switch, jump it out and see if it starts.

Inspect flame sensor, (located in burner area, opposite side of hot surface ignitor). If the tip of sensor have a white carbon build up on it, it needs to be removed and cleaned, Good luck.

what about it i need more info

depends if gas or electric on gas u have 120 volts if u have a universal transformer u will hve several wires and on the transformer it will say 120one color 240 another color and common is one color hook black wire to 120 wire and common to ur white wire from unit and ur 2 low voltage wires dont matter if it is electric use the 240 wire and common wire wires from unit dont mater just use the same 2 wires u unhookes and low voltage wires dont matter best advice is to put a 3 amp fuse inline on the low voltage side cause something caused the ransformer to go out and its probably a shorted wire this will blow the fuse instead of burning up the transformer