20 Most Recent Frigidaire GLMV169 Microwave Oven Questions & Answers

That is a bit tricky, because if the hinge is allowed to get loose, microwave energy leakage can occur, which can lead to arcing and possible fire.

I would say to pull out the remaining screw and match it up at a hardware store, but that may make the hinge too loose to stay in place.

So only do that if you can totally immobilize the door. Duct tape comes to mind.... ;)

One other option is to try a few different sizes in the open hole without removing the remaining screw.

Try 6-32, 8-32, and 10-24 by about 1/4" to 1/2" long. You may also want to try similar metric sizes. When you find one that fits, you can apply some Loctite, insert it fully. Then remove, Loctite and reinsert the remaining screw. If you want, you can use nail polish instead of Loctite.

The three service manuals that cover these models are here, but they don't have part numbers for the screws:

http://www.microwavedisplay.com/BLMV169_GLMV169_PLMVZ169GCB_sm.pdf
http://www.microwavedisplay.com/glmv169_plmv169_late_prod_sm.pdf
http://www.microwavedisplay.com/glmv169_plmv169_sm.pdf

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

If you gently push up on the door latch heads (hook-like devices sticking out of the door) there should be spring tension. If they just flop right up, the spring is off inside.

Normally the problem is not the spring, but a broken spring mounting tab on the door latch head (hook) assembly or the inner door panel.

If it's the door panel, it's usually easier and cheaper to use epoxy and some kind of hardware to fashion a new spring mount.

The door latch head (hook) is easy to replace or repair if that's the issue.

You can order these Electrolux (by Sharp) parts from Encompass here or you can call them toll-free at 866-779-5835.

One or more of these service manuals should work for you.

http://www.microwavedisplay.com/BLMV169_GLMV169_PLMVZ169GCB_sm.pdf

http://www.microwavedisplay.com/glmv169_plmv169_sm.pdf

http://www.microwavedisplay.com/glmv169_plmv169_late_prod_sm.pdf

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

No, Your better off buying a new one. Sounds like the Magnetron is acting up and that is the most important and dangerous piece of hardware in the Microwave.

Hello,

Investigate these three areas if your microwave won't heat and you hear a loud buzzing or humming noise:

Power Diode

A diode is an electronic component that readily passes current in one direction only and blocks the flow of current in the opposing direction. If your microwave's diode has become defective, your microwave will not heat and you will hear a buzzing noise. Test the diode to determine if this is the cause of your problem. Replace it if it is defective.

Testing a diode

NOTE: Before you test your diode, make sure your microwave is unplugged, and that you discharge the microwave's capacitor.

Whether it is shorted or open, a defective diode will most likely show some sign of defect. Defective diodes will usually emit an electrical burning smell, signifying its defectiveness. Also, it may have split in two, or it may exhibit a burned crack, or possibly even a blistered spot.

A shorted diode is indicated by a loud humming noise from the high voltage transformer, and no heat produced when a cook cycle is initiated. Whereas little or no heat produced in your microwave, with an absence of a humming noise is indicative of an open diode. In either case, the diode has to be replaced.

With your microwave unplugged, and your capacitor discharged, use extreme caution to remove the lead that leads to the capacitor. You can leave the ground connection attached. The side of the diode that goes to the ground is usually marked with a dot, stripe, or arrow. Set your ohmmeter to R x 10,000 or higher. Touch the positive meter probe to the anode and the negative meter probe to the cathode to measure the resistance across the diode terminals. Remember that the cathode is on the side that goes to the ground, which is often marked by a dot, stripe, or an arrow.

A normal diode, that is a non-defective diode, will read anywhere from 50,000 to 200,000 ohms. Differences in microwave make and model account for this large range in resistance readings.

Reverse the meter probes and measure resistance while touching the positive probe to the cathode and the negative probe to the anode. Reversing the probes like this should result in a reading of infinity. Unless a bleeder resistor is present. The presence of a bleeder resistor would produce a reading of the value of the resistor.

High Voltage Capacitor

A capacitor is an electrical device which stores electricity. A defective capacitor may be why your microwave is not heating but you are hearing a buzzing or humming noise. The capacitor will have to be tested to determine if this is the cause of your problem. A defective capacitor will have to be replaced before your microwave will work again. Make sure you discharge the capacitor before you test it, though.

Magnetron

A defective magnetron is the third possible cause of why your microwave is not heating, but you can hear a buzzing noise. Test your microwave's magnetron. Replace it if it is defective.

Testing a magnetron

NOTE: Before you test this component, make sure your microwave is unplugged, and that you have discharged the capacitor.

There are two tests to conduct in order to determine whether or not a magnetron has become defective. If you receive results other than what are detailed below, you will have to replace your microwave's magnetron. Each test is described for you here:

TEST 1: Locate your magnetron and label each of the wires attached to it so that you know which wires are to be replaced where. Set your ohmmeter to the lowest resistance scale. Take a resistance measurement between each of the magnetron's terminals by touching each probe to one terminal each. Reverse the probes and take a second resistance measurement. Each measurement should read less than one ohm.

TEST 2: Set your ohmmeter to its highest resistance scale. Touch one of the meter's probes to a magnetron terminal. Touch the other probe to the metal magnetron housing. Take special caution to not touch the two probes together. This could result in an inaccurate reading. This test should produce a reading of infinity - indicating an open circuit.

Read the tips on the below links on how to replace your microwave oven's diode and how to discharge the capacitor.

http://www.fixya.com/support/r7088355-replace_microwave_ovens_diode

http://www.fixya.com/support/r7088317-discharge_microwave_ovens_capacitor

I hope the above is helpful.

Good luck.

Hello there:
If your microwave oven doesn't seem to work at all, check these: Fuses Door switch Fuses Usually, when your microwave oven doesn't work it all, the internal fuse (thermal fuse) is blown. This fuse protects both you and the oven. When it blows, you need to have a qualified appliance repair technician replace it. Door switch If the fuse isn't the problem, check the door hooks and the door-release button. When these are broken, the door switch doesn't activate, so the oven can't work.

My 2021 Frigidaire also turned on by itself 2 days ago. It also got hot and would not turn off except at the breaker. After 10 minutes I turned breaker on and the microwave was still on. Turned breaker on the next morning and all good. We are afraid to leave house unless we turn breaker off. Any suggestions? Do I need a new microwave?

I would check the door switches.

The control board probably has failed.

fuses inside oven, sure. (i had to guess) all UWAVE do that when the 3 or 4 door switches CONTRADICT. this is so it does no cook a persons eyeballs.(no really ) what we do is replace them all as a set, 4x5=$20 set. I am on my 3rd set here, ( 18 year span) so i even bought a new whole spare fuse panel (behind the controller) with new switch set pre loaded.all -in- one fix. then when it fails i can replace it all in 30min flat. mine is built in fancy uwave and do not want top put in any alien Uwave here and now wood cabinets must be modified. see? good luck,

Question edited for clarity. No you can't. The turntable needs to rotate the food or the microwave energy will burn holes in your food. The rotation spreads the heat evenly throughout the food. You can test it by removing the turntable and put a plate on the base with a pound of butter on it. Microwave on full power for a minute. Notice the holes?

It sounds like you may have an issue with the plug that connects the microwave portion of your Frigidaire PLEB27M9ECD built-in oven/microwave to the electrical supply. Here are a few things you can try:

1. Check the power supply: Make sure that the oven/microwave is properly plugged into a working outlet and that the circuit breaker is not tripped.
2. Inspect the plug: Look for any visible damage on the plug and make sure that the connections are secure.
3. Check the wiring: Make sure that the wiring inside the oven/microwave is not damaged or loose.
4. Test the outlet: Using a multimeter, test the outlet to see if it's providing power.
5. Test the microwave: If you have access to a known good microwave, you can test the plug by plugging it into the known good microwave and see if it works.

If none of these solutions work, it's likely that there is an issue with the electronic control board or the plug itself, which will require professional repair. It's best to contact the manufacturer or a professional technician for repair. They will be able to diagnose the issue more accurately and repair it.

F3 means the key pad is faulty. Probably replaceable if you can find a service agent in your area/town/city/country.

Try cutting the power to it for 15 minutes to effect a power reset to the mainboard. It is still does it, you need a service call or a new one. It is a known issue. https://www.google.com/search?q=Frigidaire+Gallery+microwave.+The+internal+light+and+internal+fan+stays+on ..

The sounder is an integral part of the control board.

I had the same problem with this POS microwave. Bought it September 2019 and the plastic at top is brittle and breaking plus the door latch springs are WAY too stiff for this application. I'm 6'4" and it is hard for me to open and close. The spring tension causes the latches to slam down on the thin edge of the plastic catch causing divot wear. The INCESSANT beeping when food is done is worse than nails on a chalkboard plus there are Way too many levels and button presses to simply soften butter or cream cheese! What a TOTAL mess that I Absolutely regret buying! As for this issue with the blown fuses (on a 20 AMP circuit with nothing else on it); I read about replacing the switches so that is where I started but it didn't work. I noticed the wear in the latch catch so I ordered a replacement and that fixed the problem. I also found a video showing how to remove the door and change the latch. I did not need a new latch, but I did want to replace the spring. I have a box of springs at home and found one that was slightly shorter but the same diameter. It had about half the pull strength and now the door opens and closes reasonably! I hope this helps