LG LFC23760ST Side by Side Bottom Freezer French Door Refrigerator - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

There is no reset button you need to call a technician APPLIANCE 911

fuse for what ? not a dynamite fuse please. thanks .

You can use a blow drier or just leave it open. Either way, it would be best to transfer your frozen foods into a cooler.

FIRST ALWAYSCHECK FORpower at the outlet,checkfor 120 volts. MAY HAVE A BAD START RELAY OR CAPACITOR ON THE COMPRESSOR , CAN BUY A INEXSPENSIVE 3 IN 1 HARDSTART KIT AND BY PASS THEM , NOT THAT HARD TO DO, COMES WITH INSTRUCTIONS> BY THE WAY DO U HEAR ANY CLICKING SOUNDS FROM COMPRESSOR? BUT U MAY ALSO WANT TO CHECK UR COLD CONTROL THERMOSTAT IF IT GOES BAD U MAY GET A NON START ALSO HAVE IT CHECKED FOR PROPER VOLTAGE AND OHMS RESISTANCE WHEN IN THE ON POSITION A BAD DEFROST TIMER CAN SHUT DOWN COMPRESSOR HAVE IT CHECKED WITH MULTI METER. to check the defrost timer, u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad? Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next. Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance.. AT TIMES YOU MAY HEAR THE COMPRESSOR CLICK OFF AND ON OVER AND OVER. Signs of a bad start relay or capacitor. Check with an OHMS meter for continuity (ohms) and voltage, capacitor can be checked for Microfares. To check ur compressor with multi meter: Disconnect and remove the relay and capacitor from compressor, somes located next to compressor in a casing. You wills see 3 prongs coming out of compressor. 1 goes to ur srtart winding, 1 goes to ur run winding and the center goes to ur ground. Place ur meter connector or prong on the start prong and the other on the ground (center prong) take note of the reading in OHMS for example 5 ohms. Next place meter prong on run prong and the center ground prong agin. Take note of the reading in OHMS. Example 4 ohms Next place meter prong on the start prong and the other on the run prong, now take note of the reading example 9 ohms. Now match the total of this ohms test with the total of ur two separate test. 9 ohms, if they match ur ok give or take 5 percent plus or minus. One more test to make to test of there is a short in compressor attach meter prong to ground prong and rub the other end of meter prong to metal ( scrape the metal clean of paint and test on metal surface not painted surface. If it shows continuity or ohms , u have a short in ur compressor. It should show infinity

When leveling a refrigerator you want to have the front a little higher than the back. This will help the doors shut better and allow the water to drain properly into the condensate pan. Your unit should have feet that you lower on the front of the unit behind the front toe grille. They will be on the front corners.

Yes. This fuse is replaceable, but, you will heed to De-solder the contacts, in order to remove the damaged fuse. this can be very challenging. If you are not an avid user of a soldering iron, i would just simply replace the board. If the soldering is not done correctly, this will cause the board to short, causing a spark.

I would , also, verify that the fuse is available for a non technician to purchase. Most vital components will not be available for purchase, if the purchaser is not a certified tech.

Download your manual here . Detailed instructions on the drawer are provided on pages 13 and 14. Product Support

sounds like compressor is over heating, may be dirty around it reducing cooling air or it could be the compressor is going bad

Check the rear of your freezer compartment. If it's frosted up, your defrost circuitry is bad. If it's not frosted up, then you probably have a coolant leak and need a professional.

Probably a bad fuse on the main board. Fuse is not replaceable so either you have do a workaround (search LG refrigerator fuse repair for several fix videos and how-to's) or you have to replace the whole control board (part EBR41531302 I believe, but double check with your the part vendor before ordering). Check the fuse by pulling the refrigerator out, unplugging, taking off back control board panel, and checking the fuse for continuity.

It's possible... it'd be a tough call to make without knowing more of the specific's ... I wouldn't advise someone to buy a power board, replacement .... Why ?... That's a expensive part to purchase, for the sake of being hopeful - they have the one you need.. If not, you might get, after having waited a week or so for a part they won't allow you to return if it doesn't work.. That could cause one to become.... I think frustrated.... would be the descriptive term, I should use... Are the interior lights coming on? does it make any sounds at all if you unplug then plug back in? Hear any "clicking" as if it's try to start?

Compressors cool the fridge, the main controller does all the electrical commands, i'd check if the compressor is cutting in if it does then there is a gas or fan problem.

or maybe just your thermostat

it is a 250V 15 amp. clip the fuse off the wire, close, and solider in a new one. Terrible design. LG should have to replace free or be sued !

When you took the i/m out, the motor has put the door out of synch

Here is the door gasket you requested.

If you have no lights or hear the motor running, I would check the house circuit breaker first and measure the voltage at the outlet. If that is within specs then the one thing that could cause your problem in the refrigerator is the power control board P/N: 6871JB2047A

No need to buy a new main control board !The problem is mainly from the fuse that soldered in the main control board, go to buy a "125V 15A or 250V 15A" fuse ($5.00 a pack of 5 pcs), cut the burnt fuse from the board, re-soldered the new fuse into the board, the refrigerator work again. you save $80 for the labour cost of the technician and $180 for the cost of a new main board.

freezer works but refrigerator does not work the light are on and it deeps .lgc2376ost.

NOTE: This
is a multi-solution answer since I don't have all the tech from your question to pinpoint your problem
But the solution is in here generically, if you read and study the solutions very,very carefully.
First I would check cold control. Thats where you turn it off, if your temp is not warm. it can
be defective and not shutting off. If your temp is warm proceed with the following.
I would check the fan in the freezer. Listen to see if it is running
It moves air to the ref from the freezer
Then check to see if FREEZER CONTROL is turned WARMER WHICH MAKES THE REF COLDER AND VICE-VERSA. SEE?
The ref. temp should be about 33-35
The Freezer temp should be 0 to 10 Any thing below these temps is overkill and a waste of elect
The higher the number you turn it up to is the coldest
But is probably a common defrost problem The ice build up
is not being melted by the defrost system.The fan can't blow through the coils into the fridge.
Take out back panel of freezer to check for ice buildup. The coils should be clean.
There are three components to a defrost system- a heater,heater thermostat, and a timer unless you have a defrost electronic card.
Its best handled by a Technician but you could possibly do it by taking your model number to the nearest appliance parts store and asking for the parts. They are mostly located in freezer ,behind back panel on freezer coils.except the card which is usually located in ref The parts store will have info
Also check fan undernearh Ref in the rear
Clean condenser coils underneath
Make sure back cover is on the fridge. Some take them off and throw them away.
make one out of cardboard if its gone, using the holes of the old one.
.I'm including my article on Refrigerator Repair for your help and convenience.;
Please click or copy and paste into browser for Article

http://www.fixya.com/support/r5816737-fix_refrigerator_psychologically

If you need more help go here:

http://www.applianceaid.com/procedures.html

MORE TIPS AND TRICKS:
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STOP PAYING FOR EXPENSIVE WATER FILTERS FOR YOUR REF. DO THIS====
http://www.fixya.com/support/r9962087-stop_paying_high_price_refrigerator
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WATER SPLASHING IN FREEZER AT ICEMAKER
THE FILL TUBE IN BACK OF REFRIGERATOR CAN SLIP
AGAINST THE FILL RESERVOIR CAUSING A PARTIAL BLOCKAGE
OR BECOME CLOGGED WITH ICE.
REMOVE THE ICEMAKER AND INSPECT THE FILL TUBE.
RUN WATER IN TUBE TO ELININATE BLOCKAGE AND CHECK
TEMP IN FREEZER. IF TEMP IS BELOW 0 DEGREES, THATS
OVERKILL AND USUALLY A WASTE OF ELECTRICITY TO KEEP IT THAT COLD, NOT TO MENTION THE FILL TUBE FREEZING UP
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