20 Most Recent LG LFC23760ST Side by Side Bottom Freezer French Door Refrigerator - Page 5 Questions & Answers

Fridge is 60% nit working.The freezer is -20%.Circuteboard was replaced and defrost controler.Referigator does not work.Service technition has tried three times to repair.Referigator is 14months old.

This normally could be a bad start relay and over load for the compressor, dirty condenser coils need cleaning, condenser fan motor is not running or the compressor itself. To check the compressor properly you should test it with an amp meter, each compressor is rated in running amps ( see model/serial tag or the sticker on the compressor )...if the compressor is drawing too much current, this may be why it is shutting off. Check the model tag for proper amp rating. Some relays will be easy to notice the broken with them, they may be burnt. Example one, example two, example three. Some of these relays can be removed and give them a little shake, and if they rattle around inside the relay is likely bad. Compressors can also seize and click on and off or one of the electrical windings inside the compressor could have opened up. You can use a test cord to help check the compressor and this also will help with the amp test. If the compressor checks ok and you want to install a replacement start relay. You will need to find out which winding is which. You will need an ohm meter to determine the windings. First check to see if you have windings in the compressor. Then check to see if they are grounded. If the compressor has windings and they are not grounded, you can find which winding is which. Check for grounded windings by reading from each terminal to a good ground on the cabinet. Read from the top terminal to the lower left terminal. Read from the top terminal to the lower right terminal. Read from the lower left terminal to the lower right terminal. Write down the resistance of each reading as you go. The highest reading you get will be the run and start winding of the compressor in series with each other. The other terminal left will be the common terminal. Read from the common terminal to each of the other terminals. The terminal with the lower resistance will be the run winding. The higher resistance the start winding. Using the original style relay is always preferred, but using a general replacement can "get you by" if needed.
A few things to check for is - power at the outlet, check for 120 volts. If the light inside the fridge works, the defrost timer, cold control and possibly the wiring are the most common things that can make a fridge sit there and be "dead", not running. The defrost timer might be stuck in defrost, turn the timer screw to advance the timer and if the fridge comes back on, replace the defrost timer. You can join the wires together to by-pass the cold control for a test, if the fridge comes on, replace the cold control.

have you replaced the fuse first? if you have and it keeps blowing, check for shorts in wiring and water neat electical parts. also check for scortch marks. if it runs for a while before it blows, is the compressor running loud or at all? if you do actually need to replace the board, try www.partselect.com.

Check power from power supply to main control board. If there is no or little power output, then the power supply is probably bad. If there is power at the supply, then check power to control panel. You can get parts, manual, diagram, and more info at repairclinic.com or partselect.com

Fuse1 blown, replace it with a pigtail 250V, 15A fuse. It's soldered on the board, so it's not that straight forward.

hi
better to check with voltmeter

Try pulling the cover off in the back of the fridge and see if the fan is still operating when you push the light sensor switch in but hold it down for at least 10-20seconds to see if it starts.

Fridge freezing up- and no fan or air circulation: AT TIMES The fan usually stops working due to ice obstruction when the defrost terminator has gone out and u get ice build up? u can check the terminator with a multi meter for continuity but do not check at room temperature. stick the terminator in cup of ice water for 20 minutes then check it for continuity, should be closed when cold and open at room temperature. May also need to check the defrost timer, The defrost timer is usually found behind the front grill "toe kick" of the refrigerator. Or in the fridge compartment near middle top section. u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad? Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next. Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance.. Another item to check with a meter is the heating element itself. Located under the evaporator coils. It should show continuity or resistance OHMS WHEN TESTED AT BOTH ENDS OF THE PRONGS . Lastly check the cold control thermostat with a meter for both OHMS and volts ( VOLTS is a live test with fridge plugged in so be careful) It must show 110 volts. An open or thermostat that reads infinity will not allow the proper cooling and defrosting cycles to operate and may in fact stop anything from happening as if there is no power to the unit? ALSO CHECK THE AIR FLOW VENT SYSTEM and THERMISTORS At times it can get stuck to far closed or open. Some units feature a digital electric adjusting vent system while others are manually set. Check for any ice build up or other obstruction in the vent damper, see if u can manually open or close it. Some times when u have the settings set to the highest it closes off one area while allowing to much cold air flow to the other area! THERMISTORS in the freezer and fridge section for continuity OHMS and for amount of OHMS current being put out. In most models around 1300 ( give or take 150 ohms) ohms is required God is so good: so this is why I give free advice so please thank him not me.

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You just pull it out 12" so the door will open fully.

Happened to me, too. I hadn’t placed the top hinge covers back on after removing the doors to move the fridge. The sensors that tell the fridge the doors are closed are in the hinge covers.

Error code list is given on LG Official website LG Refrigerator - Error Code List ' LG USA Support Error code P5 is not listed in error code list. Please mention exact error code.

It appears that it doesn't. It appears to have a Thermistor and a heater. That would mean timing comes from the control board. https://www.google.com/search?q=LG+LFXS28968S+defrost+timer ..

Do you have a test meter to check if the power button is working and has continuity? My advice with a suspected control board is always to get professional diagnosis due to the cost or control boards. It would be a shame to buy one and find it doesn't fix the issue. ..

unplug the power for 10 minutes then plug it back in. this seems to work on mine,

While the LG AEQ57518210 and LG 5989JA0002Y ice makers may appear similar and have the same adapter, it's important to note that using a different ice maker model than the one specified by the manufacturer can have potential risks and consequences. Refrigerators are designed with specific components, including ice makers, that are tested and engineered to work together as a system. Using a different model ice maker may lead to the following issues:

1. Compatibility Issues: Even if the adapter fits, there might be compatibility issues between the different ice maker models and your refrigerator. The electrical connections, mounting points, and water supply might not align properly, causing installation difficulties or functionality problems.
2. Performance and Quality: Ice makers are designed with specific performance and quality standards. Using a different model ice maker might lead to subpar ice production, inconsistent ice quality, or even no ice production at all.
3. Leakage or Water Damage: Improperly fitted or incompatible ice makers could result in water leakage, which can cause damage to the refrigerator, flooring, or surrounding areas.
4. Electrical or Wiring Issues: Different ice maker models might have different electrical requirements or wiring configurations. Mismatched electrical connections could lead to electrical problems or even pose safety risks.
5. Voiding Warranty: If your refrigerator is still under warranty, using non-standard parts like an incompatible ice maker might void the warranty.
6. Long-Term Reliability: While the initial cost savings might be tempting, using an incompatible ice maker could lead to long-term reliability issues for your refrigerator.

ck out these sites.... https://www.repairclinic.com/ProductDetail/2155228?symptoms=51 https://www.appliancepartspros.com/parts-for-lg-lfxs28968s-00.html They both have parts and videos on installing them. Before you go throwing parts at it, give them a call at their 800#s to talk with a tech. I'm not affiliated with them. I just have used them to repair appliances in our home and rental units. And always found them helpfull. Best to you.

Call for Service. If the compressor is warm, it means it is working. It probably just needs refrigerant gas. Unlikely to be a relay if on the compressor, but a Start/Run Capacitor. It is a $2,000 appliance and worthy of repair https://www.google.com/search?q=Arctic+Wind+Refrigerator++ASXS1207 ..l

It could be from the condenser coils are dirty, bad ventilation,not installed correctly,broken or dirty seals for the gaskets, food storage that is not organized.Or the internal parts are broken.Yes it could be possible that your fridge had quit working and you may need to buy a new one.