20 Most Recent Blodgett DFG-100 Gas Single Oven - Page 4 Questions & Answers


it has been some time since I have done this but if I remember correctly, the replacement glass comes with a special tool for the trim around the glass and instructions. I suggest calling a supplier, such as Restaurant Parts and More, Heritage Parts, or PartsTown and ask if this is still the case that the tool and instructions are included with the glass.

Blodgett Ovens | Answered on Dec 17, 2017


http://download.partstown.com/is-bin/intershop.static/WFS/Reedy-PartsTown-Site/-/en_US/manuals/BL_MT2136_sm.pdf

this web site shows your manual and indicates that the issue is the motor needs attention. I would think that the motor has failed mechanically and is "Locked Up." The buzzing is the motor trying to run but can not as it does not move. The SP MTR indicates motor speed issue.

Blodgett Ovens | Answered on Aug 19, 2017


http://www.blodgett.com/wp-content/uploads/BCX14G-serv.pdf

Try this website as it has a service manual for this oven. May help you dial in on the issue.

Blodgett Ovens | Answered on Jul 22, 2017


manuals are located by model number. please send that and I will help you try and find one.

Blodgett Ovens | Answered on Jun 28, 2017


Insufficient make up air/blocked flue.

Blodgett Ovens | Answered on Dec 04, 2016


After what shut off? Main on/off valve? Thermostat? If thermostat off and still have flame, thermostat is defective.

Blodgett Ovens | Answered on Dec 04, 2016


there is a blower wheel tool that is used to remove the blower wheel if you were able to remove the wheel and the key is still in the wheel you have to soak it with some WD-40 spray it and leave it for a to penatrate then rest it on something flat and usd a punch to tap it out

Blodgett Ovens | Answered on Sep 21, 2016


Sometimes these things get seized up and are impossible to remove. If it isn't completely strupped you can soaked it in wd40 and if that doesn't work try using a torch to heat it. If it is stripped since you are replacing the wheel anyway see if you can cut out some louvers and try to drill it out. If the doesn't work in worst case scenarios I have had to cut the shaft of motor with saw zall and replace motor. I know it's expensive and works so I would cut the wheel however you have to and carefully drill set screw out.

Blodgett Ovens | Answered on May 07, 2016


A short somewhere causing it to overamp. Put a 3amp inline fuse on the secondary side (24v side) on the hot wire. This will save the transformer and blow the fuse not the transformer. The centrifugal switch prolly wasn't bad. So I would trace the wire coming off transformer and look for bare wire or loose wires. Anything that would cause a short

Blodgett Ovens | Answered on May 07, 2016


The oven has a max temp of 650° if you aren't getting there with the tstat cranked all the way up most likely you don't have enough gas pressure to reach the temp. Or the air shutters are mis adjusted. Gas pressures should be adjusted by a professional technician or contractor with a meter for testing gas pressures. I've included the link to the manual so you can find general information about the oven. http://www.blodgett.com/wp-content/uploads/900-man-english.pdf

Blodgett Ovens | Answered on Mar 31, 2016


Sadly when dealing with GAS I prefer not suggesting any self repairs . call a certified gas repairman .

Blodgett Ovens | Answered on Sep 25, 2015


electric or gas?

if gas check oven gas safety valve other wise the temperature control thermostat or Oven comes on and off intermittently or heats very little:

If the timer feature is activating and you have not touched the timer button at all, this would have to be a failed Electronic Oven Control. The timer button is either shorting at times or closing on its own from heat or moisture. The Electronic Oven Control would need to be replaced to repair the problem.

Or Why does it take the oven so long to bake?
When the food is taking way too long to bake, it's probably a weak bake ignitor. Replacing the ignitor usually fixes this problem, but you probably want to verify that the ignitor is the problem before replacing it.

Sometimes the oven thermostat or oven sensor can be calibrated wrong, or it may be faulty. If your particular range has an oven that uses an electronic thermostat, and the oven temperature is off by tens of degrees, you probably have to replace it.
On most units that have a mechanical thermostat, you can actually remove the thermostat knob, and adjust the knob to more accurately represent the actual setting of the thermostat. On many models, there's a screw on the back of the knob with a small calibration plate or ring. You can loosen this screw and adjust the calibration plate. Remember to tighten the screw again. If yours isn't adjustable, and the temperature is off by a large amount, you should just replace the thermostat.

Or Oven safety valve needs to be checked with multi meter ohms / voltage

ALSO Test the Burner Heating Element
The stove's burner heating element is a coil of metal sheathed in an insulator. Electrical current travels through the element. Resistance to the passing of electrical current causes the element to heat up. A precise temperature cannot be set for a burner, instead it is turned on and off repeatedly by the control to the achieve an average temperature. When it is set to a low temperature, the element is cycled on and off more frequently. For high temperatures, the heating element is energized longer with fewer on and off cycles. Some burners have two elements, with the second only being used only for high heat settings.
Before testing the heating element, unplug the appliance or shut off the power at thefuseboxorbreaker panelto avoid an electrical shock hazard.
When a burner does not heat at all, or only heats up to a lower than expected temperature, the problem is likely to be with the heating element, the temperature control switch, or the wiring. If it only heats at the highest temperature, the problem is with the control or an electrical short, not the burner. If the burner works only intermittently, the problem is likely in the wiring or connectors. To test the heating element, try the following steps.
First, disconnect the heating element from the stovetop. In most cases, this is done by lifting up the burner on the side opposite of the terminals (the part of the burner that disappears under the stovetop). Remove the decorative ring.
Inspect the style of connection. If the burner element has visible blades that fit into the receptacle block, pinch the block with one hand, and pull the heating element free with your other hand. If the terminal block clamps over the element, the housing must be removed and the burner wires disconnected. Unsnap the metal piece or remove the screw that secures the receptacle block and then disconnect the element.
Inspect the heating element. If you find bubbles, warping, or damage to the insulation sheath, the burner must be replaced. If the terminals are dirty or corroded, this can cause poor temperature control, intermittent problems or complete failure to heat. Clean the terminals with steel wool or very fine sand paper to restore good conductivity.
Test theresistanceof the heating element using amulti meter. Set the multi meter to the ohms setting X1 and touch one probe to each of the terminals. A normal reading is typically somewhere between 20 and 120 ohms. The exact reading differs by manufacturer and mode. If the meter reads infinite resistance or the other extreme of the scale, zero resistance, then the element is damaged and should be replaced. If the measured resistance differs significantly from the expected range, the element is probably bad, but if possible, determine from the manufacturer what the actual resistance should be.
To test for a grounded or shorted element, touch one probe to the surface of the burner and the other probe to each terminal in turn. If you get continuity at any time, the heating element is defective and should be replaced.
The reason for my free advice is GOD is good!


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Blodgett Ovens | Answered on May 11, 2015


Some Blodgett manuals are available here: http://www.blodgett.com/library/ . Just scroll down to the Convection section (or use your browser's find command <Ctrl>+F).

The link to the English manual for the CTB/CTBR is http://www.blodgett.com/wp-content/uploads/CTB-man-english.pdf . The CTBR product page also has links to the literature here: http://www.blodgett.com/blodgett_products/ctb/ . The CTBR-1 is not listed separately.

I hope this helps.

Cindy Wells

Blodgett Ovens | Answered on Feb 26, 2015

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