20 Most Recent Minn Kota Endura 30 Freshwater Transom Mount Trolling Motor - Page 4 Questions & Answers

OK, I'm not 100 % positive on this, but,, I think the worst that could happen is the motor will run backwards. Sometimes the wire has 1 side with little lines on it, and the other is plain, the lines would be the negative side. The clips are easy, Pull the rubber handle over the wire, after you figure out which is which, and put the insulation of the wire into the crimp and crimp it, put the wire into the screw. Pull down the rubber handle, you're all set. To test the polarity, try a dead battery, if anything is going to happen, it won't be so bad. Good luck.

It might help to view drawings at http://secure.northlandmarine.com/MinnkotaTillerSteering.html.
The spring loaded items are brushes. They carry current to the rotor/shaft/impeller causing them to spin. I have two Model 35s. One failed after a couple hours of use. The other was given to me because it did not work. Both suffer from water getting into the motor and causing corrosion and sticking brushes. Someone on another site commented that this was a common problem for Minn Kota.

I believe the Mag 36 is a 12v and the Mag 40 is a 24v......Ive been doin a little research and cant find anything that points to a 12 and 24v system.....

There isn't really a light batery that will do you much good, especially since you're using it on an inflateable boat. You will have much more drag than with a hardshell boat. Either way, get a "Deep Cycle" battery, as large as possible.THe more amps the better.

check for broken wire where it enters the housing in the head.

I have the exact same problem, wondering if the switch is the problem?

is the propeller tips broken off or fins missing pieces. the propeller will become unbalanced. if the propeller is ok then the bearings are going out in the drive motor

Hi!
For starters, here is a schematic:
Endura 30
Check to see if there is appropriate voltage getting to the switch (with an ohm meter).
You can (please do this carefully) disconnect the battery positive and negative as well as the motor red and motor black wires and connect the Batt positive to the motor red and the Batt negative to the motor black. If the motor runs, the switch is faulty. If it doesn't then I suspect the motor needs looking at.
Best of luck!
Mike

Hi!
Here is a schematic for your motor:
Endura 30
It sounds like the motor has leaked water into it and wil need to be cleaned up, have the brushes, seal kit and bearings replaced.
Best of luck!
Mike

Hi!
How about a 42" or 45" or 48" tube insted?
Here is the lising:
Minn Kota Tubes
Best of luck!
Mike

Hi!
Here is a scchematic with part numbers and service center listing as well:
Endura 46
Best of luck!
Mike

You *may* be able to save the armature (about $45) by using some fine emory cloth to buff it back to life.
The brushes, seal kit, bearing, etc are about a $35-$40 bill. To have it done in-shop would be approx. $80 with labour.
Here's a schematic:
Endura 30
Good luck in your repair!
Mike

You can purchase a battery extender cable. Depending on how far you need to go, you can buy them in various lengths. I've done the same and bought a 15' extension (always buy a few more feet than you think you need). Many places carry this. I bought mine at BassProShops for $25.00 and it comes with fuses which help to make sure you never fry your motor or battery!

The 12 volt battery required is sold separate. You will have to remove the battery for charging...charger not included, It is possible to have the battery wired in such a way that it can re-charge from the alternator of the main engine.

http://www.northlandmarine.com/MinnBushKit3.25.htm

I just replaced the shaft (composite) on my Endura 34 today. First, remove the crossbolt that attaches the control head to the top of the shaft. Second, remove the top cover of the control head. Third, make note of the wire connections within the control head (take a picture) and then unplug the red, yellow, white and black wires...no need to unplug the main 6 guage red and black power wires. Fourth, with the wires unplugged, pull the shaft with motor housing attached through the transom mount assembly. Fifth, immobilize the motor housing (gently vice?) and heat the socket in which the shaft screws into motor housing. Do not overheat, only use enough heat to soften factory sealant making unscrewing shaft possible. Sixth, reassemble in reverse order.

Notes: Do not use a pipe wrench as this will crush the composite shaft, either old or new. Apply thread sealant prior to installing new shaft (I used Permatex Thread Sealant/Formagasket). Ensure crossbolt hole on top of shaft aligns with motor housing below.