20 Most Recent Haynes Ford Pick-ups, Expedition and Lincoln Navigator Repair Manual Online covering 2WD and 4WD gasoline models for F-150 1997 thru 2003, F-150 Heritage 2004, F-250 1997 thru 1999, Expedition 1997 thru 2009, and Lincoln Navigator 1998 thru 2009 does not in Questions & Answers

put socket on large nut in center of bottom pully

roll back and forth and turn off and on

The AC compressor should come on for defrost mode - regardless of the temperature setting. This help to ensure dry air is delivered to the inside of the windshield. If the air were humid (damp) it would condense when hitting the cold glass - cause frost to form almost immediately on the inside of the windshield.There should be a couple of hoses that run into the firewall of your truck to connect to the inlet & outlet of the heater core itself. When the engine is at normal operating temperature (depending on outdoor temperature this could be 5 - 15 min or more at idle - less if being driven), these hoses should be as hot as the radiator hose. If they're not, it would explain why you don't get any heat in the cab. Repair or replace any hose that is pinched, kinked or crushed.Make sure that the cooling system is FULL. This is done by checking the coolant level in BOTH the overflow reservoir AND radiator itself. There is a very real scalding danger if you attempt to remove the cap of a radiator when hot. Allow several hours of cooling before attempting. With the engine off AND cold, open the radiator cap and inspect the level. It should be right up to the bottom rim of the filler neck. Set the heat temperature to HOT and the fan to HIGH. Start the engine and let it idle. While it is warming up, check the coolant overflow reservoir level. It should up to the COLD level mark. Top it off as needed with a 50/50 mixture of water and compatible coolant for your truck, and recap. Check the coolant level in the radiator again. If it appears full, gently increase the engine RPM be stepping on and off the gas pedal a few times to help dislodge any air bubble in the system that may be present (or have a helper do it while you watch the coolant level in the radiator fall and rise). This is only effective if the engine is at normal operating temperature (thermostat is OPEN). Return to the radiator an check the level again. Slowly add a 50/50 mixture of water and compatible coolant for your truck as needed. Rev the engine slightly a couple of times again to help ensure any air in the system has been displaced and top off with coolant as needed - close the radiator with the cap. Note the overflow reservoir level and allow the engine to reach normal running temperature. Once the engine has begun to warm up, DO NOT remove the radiator cap again until the engine has been allowed to cool completely. You should be able to be able to see the coolant level in the reservoir if the coolant in the radiator has been brought up correctly. The cooland level in the overflow reservoir should now be at HOT. If it is at any level lower than the HOT mark, top it off with a 50/50 mixture of water and compatible coolant for your truck. If the reservoir was emptied completely while running the engine, you should stop, allow the engine to cool and start the process over again. Once you are sure the coolant level in the radiator is full, and the overflow reservoir is never allowed to go empty, you can monitor the level and add coolant to the system via the overflow reservoir. This means the the entire system is flooded with coolant - and no air "pockets" exist.If still unable to get heat, it may be a result of a clogged hose or heater core, or a stubborn air pocket in the heater core itself or inlet / outlet hose. With an empty bucket or container & cold engine, you could remove one hose and pinch or close both openings. Next, open slowly / briefly see if antifreeze flows FROM the heater core to the end of the hose while directing the flow into the empty bucket / container. Allow the coolant to drain until you're satisfied that any trapped air has been pushed out by coolant from the radiator thru the hoses and heater core. Reconnect hose. Good luck!

Put some fuel injector cleaner in your next few tanks of gas. It will slowly dissolve the gunk and save you a bunch of money that a garage will want for cleaning your system.

Question edited for clarity, full 'make model (what it is)'. Email address removed. You don't need the site's 12 million annual viewers emailing you to say they can fix it for a thousand bucks! Finally, Please don't type in all CAPS, it is considered SHOUTING and is harder to read. Repair Clinic has some good ideas, but your model is discontinued

Fedders Air conditioner won't turn off

Repair Clinic https://www.repairclinic.com > RepairHelp > Fedders-Ai... Here are the most common reasons your Fedders AC compressor won't turn off - and the parts & instructions to fix the problem yourself.

Why Your Air Conditioner Isn't Shutting Off, and How to Fix It

Williams Comfort Air https://williamscomfortair.com > ac-wont-shut-off When your air conditioner won't shut off, it's natural to worry about wasting electrical power as temperatures become too cool for comfort. ..

Here are the steps you might want to follow: Setting the Draining Cycle Times (Dump Interval): This setting controls how often the unit dumps the water. You can adjust this setting to reduce the frequency of water dumping. Setting the Drain off Delay Time (Dump Delay): This setting controls the delay time before the unit starts to dump the water after it has been turned off. If adjusting these settings doesn't work, there could be other issues with your unit. For example, a continuous water dumping problem could be due to a faulty dump valve or a problem with the float valve.

Frego split ac error code h3 what is problem

Model 2320cpb. E2 code

Blue star inverter Ac HP error shown on display

Why do you need to dismantle this? Some of these types of cooler do not have replaceable parts inside. They are usually classed as a "Throw away" machine. It is often easier and cheaper to replace it than repair it.

Azure 1.5 ton splits ac old model e2 error

Blocked jets clogged with dust or dirt, blocked injector need a clean / service

o reset your Homebasix Oscillating Parabolic Heater, follow these steps: Unplug the heater from the power source. Locate the Manual Reset Button on the heater. It's usually a small button or switch. Use a fireproof, non-conductive rod (such as a wooden stick or plastic tool) to press the Manual Reset Button. After resetting, plug the heater back in and check if it functions properly. Remember to ensure that there are no flammable objects within 3 feet of the heater and that it is placed on a stable surface.

Voltas arrear code 88

https://www.fix.com/repair/appliance/air-conditioner/does-not-turn-on/

Sir my package Ac is .UL error code sir

Parts suppliers in the link. Ot if you take the old one off, a metal fabrication workshop could make you a new one. https://www.google.com/search?q=Newlec+NLSH+24AN+storage+heater+parts They still sell them and they all look the same. https://www.hwelectric.co.uk/newlec.php ..

Obviously window and wall a/c units are not tradable, in spite of the fact that I don't have the subtleties of the distinction. Alter Window units are intended to exploit the way that a window is a flimsy segment; vents outwardly of the a/c case can be near within part of the a/c unit, yet be outside (where they must be). This might permit the window units to be less expensive. Interestingly, a wall can be 6" thick or more; wall units should have all vents near the rear of the unit. BTW I generally felt that the vents in the side of a window unit were for admission of air at encompassing temperature to then be coordinated through the condenser curl at the back plane of the unit to be depleted out the back (presently more sweltering than surrounding), however as a matter of fact a portion of the side vent region may likewise be utilized for ousting air which cools engines. It may be the case that in a window unit the venting on one side is committed to admission of air for the condenser loop and the venting on the opposite side is for exhaust. This would forestall the hot exhaust air being pulled in the admission for the condenser cooling air. Window ACs versus Through-the-Wall ACs It's not difficult to think about window and through wall ACs, since they're comparative in cooling limit and size, yet through-the-wall units will generally be somewhat more productive in light of the fact that they make an impermeable seal in the room. The significant contrasts between these ACs include establishment and venting. Window ACs fit through a window and don't need long-lasting establishment, while through wall ACs are really incorporated into the wall - making them well known in rooms without windows or for individuals who like to let their windows be. Wall forced air systems normally just vent warm air through the rear of the unit, while window ACs vent from the sides and back. Hence, window and through wall models are not exchangeable (regardless of whether they're a similar size). Generally speaking, in the event that a window unit vents out its side, the wall will obstruct the vents and cause overheating. Select window AC models can be introduced through a wall, however provided that they have a slide-out case wall sleeve. Peruse more on wall sleeves.

Maybe this video will help: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xOZGx6--B2A

Hi I'm getting e4 on my aircon daytek