20 Most Recent Intertherm 56000 Btu Gas Furnace Questions & Answers

filters are usually on the inside of front door

If you are positive the fan is turning and no air flow you have a very dirty filter or all zone dampers are closed (very unlikely because most zone dampers fail in open position).

• Thermostat calls for heat
• Venter motor starts
• Air switch verifies vacuum
• Igniter sparks, or glows - depending on furnace
• Flame starts in burner
• Flame rod senses flame
• Burner continues to burn until thermostat stops calling for heat

By your description, I would polish your flame rod, it will be a metal rod that is insulated from the bracket that is screwed to the furnace case and it will have a single wire attached to flame rod,

According to the web, the model C7BAM03648CC is a Westinghouse refrigeration unit. Are you sure you didn't get the number from the top portion? C7BAM Cased Vertical Coil • R410 refrigerant-non-ozone depleting • All aluminum micro-channel coil eliminates formicary corrosion • Piston metering for all 13 SEER matchups • Field installed TXV accessory for 14 SEER matchups Recent Intertherm furnaces have "M" or "CMF" numbers. Either way, you will probably have to contact a local dealer because their website is useless. Intertherm Gas Furnaces

furnace operation= call for heat- inducer blower motor energizes- pressure switch makes- after a few seconds ignitor activates. If this series of processes is not whats happening the furnace may be going into a code safety. Call to discuss further=913-557-9111

If you have a programmable thermostat do the batteries need replacing? Test and re-insert. While there check for any loose wires on it, or at the furnace circuit board. Also make sure none of the wires are touching and metal parts and getting chaffed or shorted. If they are the shot will keep the unit from shutting off and/or cause short cycling.

The fan speed might be set to fast cooling the fan limit control prematurely. Or the fan limit switch is not calibrated correctly. Or the fan limit switch is bad.

If your diagnostic indicator is not picking showing a fault code than it thinks everything is ok with the furnace. It could be a bad thermostat. (or the heat anticipator in the thermostat).

Sounds like you fan limit control is not set properly. Or the blower speed is set to high.

Try grounding the circuit board properly.

To convert KW to BTU use the following: 1KW= 3412.142 BTU/ hr Hope this helps. Bob

You are going to need a service man. A magnehelic gauge is needed to properly diagnose a pressure switch issue. Could be a blocked or restricted flue, a defective induced draft motor, cracked heat exchanger, restricted secondary heat exchanger, ect. ect.

bad motor and/or capacitor.

Will it initially light, then go out when you release the button? If yes, then change/adjust the thermocouple or pilot size. If no, then check that you have a gas supply, that the igniter is sparking, that the gas valve is allowing the pilot flow through.

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Power off, power on. Let know what happens

If the sensor knocks the unit off and the the fan keeps blowing without a flame ,the limit (the sensor is a limit comptroller that turns off flame @ a set temp and allows the fan to run until the heat exchanger cools to @ set temp) has out lived its lifetime and needs to be replaced.the button is a manual reset that once reset would allow the unit to continue to run flame and blower at the same time after having been set once, if it is an ongoing problem and needs to be reset more than once then replace the limit control (sensor) in kind. (With the same mode and set-points for the limits)

Sounds to me like it is going off on a weak high limit switch. With the fan on it will prolong the event but will not stop it. I would check all of the high limit switches. It would most likely be one close to the heat exchanger.

http://www.intertherm.net/DealerServiceLocator.aspx