20 Most Recent Crown XTi 2000 2-Channel Amplifier - Page 4 Questions & Answers

HelloPlease explain more. What actually do you want to know, and to get assistance? Your problem post is not clear to understand. Please repost it with some more details. OK.

check the bad side with a known good speaker first.If it still doesn't work most likely burned out that side. Usually a power IC chip depending on model.

The problem is that the potentiometer that the knob is connected to is dirty. This is a common problem with age, or quality of installed potentiometer. (potentiometer is the name of the component that the knob attaches to. It usually looks like a 1/2" long cylinder)

There are multiple solutions to this problem. The first is free & anyone can do. While the unit is off. Twist the knob back and forth quickly and rapidly numerous times. Roughly 10-15 times will do. This sometimes allows for the connections within the potentiometer to reconnect, and remove the crackle.

The second solution involves some handy work. The unit's case will have to be disassembled, and the potentiometer that the knob is attached to must be found. There is usually a relief hole somewhere on the housing. Within this relief hole one can spray contact cleaner. This cleans the contact within the potentiometer which is the cause of the crackle. Once the pot has been sprayed, rotate the knob like in step 1.

If steps 1 & 2 do not work, the potentiometer will need to be replaced. This work usually needs a professional. If you are handy with a soldering iron, it can be accomplished. Look for any particular part #'s on the crackly potentiometer, and then copy these into a online parts catalog. Mouser.com and Digikey.com are excellent resources for finding parts. Upon finding a replacement, it can be swapped out, and provide the user with a crackle free knob.

As always, make sure power to the unit is disconnected. If you are unsure of electronics, please use caution, as dangerous voltages may reside that can cause personal injury.

THIS PROBLEM CAME FROM POWER SUPPLY FILTER CAPACITOR
OR MAINCIRCUIT ON AMPLIFIER..

Question...does the problem occur when the power amp is on only by itself ( no pre amp power ).

If it does, then because of the age of the amplifier, it could be either a capacitor, or a transistor has died. Capacitors and transistors both have age issues. Since that is a nice amplifier, I would suggest taking it to a shop because there are MANY things that can cause this condition. Subsequently, because of the age, if one component has failed, there are sure to be more to come. If you wish to keep the amp, you should consider getting it rebuilt. Hope this helps... Rob

common problem with xti series... all the amp needs is a soft ware update contact crown and they can sort it for you... you dont have to send the amp back to them. it was a verry common fault with all the early xti amps..

Hi

Please check this link to download the manual where you will get the related answer regarding your query..

http://www.retrevo.com/support/Crown-CE-4000-Amps-manual/id/22150ag317/t/2/

Let us know if you have somethin more to ask else accept the suggestion.
Thank You for contacting Fixya

Hi,
Yes, I can provide you schematics of Crown IC-150
Click HERE to download required sechamtics, check 4th entry in list on that page, right click the link and select Save Target As to download pdf schematics file directly in your computer.
Hope these info will help you.
Let me know if you have additional question.
Thanks.

Do you know for a fact that you do not have a working board? If there's a problem with anything from speaker mismatch to loose transits, the board will not operate. This receiver is made of discrete components so, it couldn't be that hard to fix or maintain. But if you want a new or used one, they have them on ebay though there a little pricey.

Buzz through speakers usually means it is picking up humm from a power source. Check your mixer and amp input (gain) levels. If one is turned up really high you will get buzz. If that doesn't work check where it is plugged in. Is it sharing power with another electronic piece of equipment? You can also buy a power conditioner (I believe it is called). It will put out "clean" power (power without Hz humm). They can be expensive though. Less exspensive mixers will put out humm. Lower that gain as low as possible and raise the amp gain. Or vice verse

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Are you using the charging cables that came with it? That is a type C. Are you securely attaching the charging cable? A loose connection would keep the battery from charging. If you had a low battery, you would see a red light. That you have no light at all suggests there is no charge left in the battery. I'm not sure the reset will work with no charge which is why you ought to check the cables first. But turn it off and then hold down the Multifunction button for 10 seconds to reset it. Then turn it back on and see what happens. If you can, test the charging cable on aother device. If you have another type C charging cable, try it, just to eliminate a bad cable. If these suggestions don't work, you may try the manufacturer's customer support.

The F2100 remote is not explicitly listed as compatible with the AerialBox T2100, I recommend using the remote that came with your AerialBox T2100 for optimal functionality. If you have any specific compatibility concerns, I suggest reaching out to Dish TV customer support for further assistance.

I have the same model with the 8 track player, original manual, and original receipt dated 1975.