Turbo Air 23 cu. ft. / 651 liter Commercial Freezer MSF-23NM - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Do you mean the MSF-23NM and the TSF-23SD? If so, you can find the information for them here:

http://www.turboairinc.com/TB-Products/Soliddoor.html

Basically, the difference between the two is that the MSF-23NM runs on more amps and is a new "maximum" series that Turbo Air came out with.

http://www.missionrs.com/MSF-23NM.html
http://www.missionrs.com/TSF-23SD.html

The product spec sheets at the two links above should be easy to download from our site. If you have any trouble, you can call us at 1(800)319-0690.

It sounds like you may be low on refrigerant (freon). One way for a novice to check this is to look at your compressor. There are two line coming out of the compressor. The comressor is the black thing about the size of a bowling ball under your freezer behind the grill. The small line coming from the compressor to the "radiator" behind that lower grill should be very hot coming from the compressor. The big line going into the compressor should be very cold to the touch. If that is not the case you are low on refrigerant. Without gauges and a supply of refrigerant you can't fix it yourself. Second thing to check is the thermostat is it set all the way to cold? If not turn it clock wise 1/5 turn and watch to see if the temperature goes down.

This is normal. All commercfial freezers must defrost 3 to 5 times a day, or they will freeze over at the coil and then stop freezing. A timer in your freezer turns off the compressor and turns a heating element on for 10 to 15 minutes. During that time the coil heats and melts frost from the coil. Usually within 30 minutes the temperature will briefly rise to 20 t0 25 degrees F and then quickly drop down to 0 degrees F. The food rarely defrosts in this short period of time..

there is a kit you can get we call it a sheppards hook got to a parts store and the can help

Since there is no mention of the refrigerant, and some models are now using R-290 (propane), it's hard to tell what these pressures represent. My suggestion is to remove the refrigerant and weigh in the exact amount the manufacturer requires. This eliminates alot of guess work and is usually the best place to start.

If everything else is in proper working order, either a refrigerant level issue or and expansion device issue. If system constantly runs the previous, if not, possible temperature control. Look for system cycling or not cycling.

this could be an issue with the defrost cycle. if ice build up accumulates the on the inside coil (evaporator), it restricts the air flow and you get alarms for being out of temp. usual signs are ice build up around the coil area. look for that first. be sure the door closes and seals too.

without a model number, I can only tell you the general function of most freezers. Theory is that the bi-metal is probably a defrost heater safety to prevent overheating. A sensor of some type will prevent the evaporator fan from coming on until the evaporator temp hits a preset temperature. Some freezers are setup to terminate on either time or temperature, whichever occurs first. Hope this helps some. Need model number for further help.

Hello,

Let's start by diagnosing the freezer;

Fan problem is one of the most common reasons for the freezer to start failing, this is called "frost free failure." Ice can build up on the evaporator coils over time, and this ice builds up until it starts blocking the fan. The fan is responsible for circulating cold air throughout the freezer, so if it is blocked the freezer will not be able to freeze any food. You can usually check this by removing an access panel in the back of the freezer to inspect the coils. If ice is built up on the coils, a hairdryer can assist in defrosting them.

It's also possible that the fan is not running at all. If the fan is burned out or the motor isn't running, cold air can't circulate through the freezer and everything will melt. You can normally hear the fan motor switch on and off from time to time. Listen for it and if you can't hear it coming on for an extended period of time, the motor may need repair or replacement. The wires connecting to the fan may be the problem, preventing the fan from receiving electricity.

Several other problems could be keeping your freezer from freezing:

There could be leaks in one or several of the hoses in the refrigerator, which results in the cold air being lost instead of circulating properly throughout the fridge and freezer.

If you have the freezer so full that the cold air can't circulate, your food will thaw even though the freezer isn't malfunctioning. Always leave some space open in the freezer and try to not store food right up against the cooling vents.

The thermostat might have shorted out, which means the freezer can't accurately determine how cold it is. If this is the case, the refrigerator would probably not be working, either.

If your defrost drain becomes clogged, the water in the line will just refreeze over and over again, which could damage the lines as well as the fan. Always check the drain and make sure no sludge is building up in it if you have a self-defrosting refrigerator.

Always try to keep the freezer door closed for long periods of time. The more the door is opened, the more warm air is let in and cold air is released. If the door is opened frequently, the freezer could be warming faster than the fridge can cool it, which will thaw your food........

Take care.

Change the defrost control.

Hi Tim, I really don't believe you need a charge unless you have had to charge it in the past, because of a leak. What you want to do, find the compressor on this unit, below in back or front, or some are on top. Make sure you feel it running, and see if the condenser fan motor by the compressor is also running. Check the condenser coil and make sure its clean, and make sure the indoor evaporator fan is running. These are things you can check on your own to find out if something is going on with a part. The only time a unit needs freon is if it has had a leak in the passed, and it was never repaired, so it lost its charge when it was shut down for sometime. Check these things and get back to me. We can figure this out.
Shastalaker7
A/C, Heating, & Refrigeration Contractor

http://www.turboairinc.com/TB-Sale%20Network/TB-Sales.html
go to this web site and it will show you where the places you can purchase parts.
Are you sure it's the control and not just a temp probe not reading correctly. If it reads a false number, the unit will either never shut off or never come on as the controller is controling based on incorrect information. You may want to look into that first. Control panels are not cheap.

All question need full 'make model (what it is)', first 3 words. Google make model wiring diagram. Brown or Red is normally power and blue is return. https://www.google.com/search?q=Freezer+with+loose+red+and+blue+cables ..

you do not leave them alone they may have refrigerant flowing through them. look in your owners manual/instructions for more info.

Yes

Hey. I dont suppose you figured out where the wires went all all? I've done the same thing ????

Question edited for clarity and add CAPS. It seems to be a common occurrence on that model due to bad design. https://www.fixya.com/support/t17110008-norfrost_c6aew_chest_freezer_compressor Norfrost is owned by Ebac. Contact their customer service. https://www.johnogroat-journal.co.uk/news/caithness-freezer-name-lives-on-in-england-170710/ https://www.ebac.com/support/customer-service Another way would be to study the wiring as it is pretty standard. The video may help. https://www.google.com/search?q=freezer+wiring+diagram You may be able to freeze this video to note the wiring, although this only shows the thermostat wiring and is a bit fuzzy. Also an refrigeration appliance technician would know the wiring by heart and take 20 minutes maximum to work it out.

Question edited to add maker! All questions need 'make model (what it is) as first three words. That is an overheating fault. Replace the fluff with no fluff. Make sure the condenser coils are free of dust and there is good airflow Or It is low on refrigerant gas and you need a service tech.. ..

The Frigidaire FFC13K2CW1 chest freezer has a capacity of 12.8 cubic feet. More info: https://www.partselect.com/Models/FFC13K2CW1/

Question edited for clarity. Duplicate question deleted. Refresh page to see you question. This is not a make I know. Things like drawers are usually readily available. This link may work better where you are located. https://www.google.com/search?q=BRADA+MF-305+parts Generic Drawer replacements https://www.google.ca/search?q=freezer+drawer+replacement&sca_esv=580628691&tbm=isch&sxsrf=AM9HkKk2I1HuWqUimTZskQkh3tRH3AJ6rA:1699481832834&source=lnms&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiZ0MqXt7WCAxUwL1kFHUrtBG0Q_AUoAnoECAIQBA&biw=1920&bih=919&dpr=1 ..