Top 20 Whirlpool 25.4 Cu. Ft. Side-by-Side Refrigerator w/Thru-the-Door Ice & Water - Satina Stainless-Look Questions & Answers

Probably you have a bad power supply for the refrigerator or your condenser doesn't operate but wait a minute you said that you're not even receiving power so probably go with the power supply for the unit

i don't understand what you're discribing but if one of the lines are frozen you can use a hair dryer to melt it,put heat on for like a minute and take it off,you don't want to damage any of the plastic parts.

If Fridge working fine now, the problem may be is Hydro Grid.

When the fridge just start, the compressor is running with high pressure of Freon. If Hydro power has voltage surge or power Off/On ( suddenly ), the compressor should be stuck, the overheat protection switch will actived, than fridge will stop working.

The noice of "click" - properly is overheat switch auto-reset.

This could be a build up of lime scale

Control board is programmed unplug fridge to reset board if programming is required you have to remove front display cover and remove board there's a plugin on front of board programming tool required you may find it is cheaper to buy new board

ICE MAKER not making ice: Inspect Water fill tube, Inspect the ice maker mold to see if there are ice cubes present. If there are no cubes or very small cubes, then you should look for issues with the water fill system. Inspect the fill tube and the fill cup area at the back of the ice maker to make sure that they are not frozen. If there is an ice buildup in that area, confirm no foreign objects have disrupted the flow of water into the fill cup. If nothing obvious has caused the ice buildup then suspect the inlet valve, tubing or low water pressure. Inspect the outlet tubing from the fill valve to the ice maker fill tube for any signs of restrictions and replace if necessary. WATER INLET VALVE: Check the water inlet valve for any restrictions. You will need to shut off the valve from the household water supply before you disconnect the inlet tubing. Some water inlet valves may have a screen to filter debris before it can enter the valve. If the screen is plugged, water flow will be restricted and the result will be small or layered ice cubes. Remove and clean the screen or replace the valve. If dirt has gotten into the valve it may not shut off completely and will continuously drip water into the ice maker fill tube and will eventually freeze up. Low household water pressure or a restriction at the manual shut off valve will also cause the water inlet valve to not shut off completely and create this same condition. Self piercing saddle valves are the most common shut off valve to cause this problem as the hole that is pierced in the water line is often too small and will more easily become restricted. The water inlet valve is operated by line voltage supplied through the ice maker control. Power is applied for approximately 7-9 seconds during the harvest cycle and energizes the solenoid on the valve to allow water to flow. You can check the solenoid for continuity with a multi-meter. On models with multiple solenoid inlet valves, you will need to determine which portion or portions of the valve are used for the ice maker. You can normally follow the inlet tubing from the ice maker back to the valve. Unplug the refrigerator and turn off the water supply to the valve before working with this part. (HOW TO TEST INLET VALVE: Inspect the filter screen where the supply line connects. Remove any debris or deposits that may have built up using a toothbrush or warm running water. If you cannot clear theclog, it will be necessary to replace the valve (the filter is not removable on most inlet valves). Test thewaterinletvalve for continuity using a multImeter. First, inspect the coil for an indication of it's ohm rating. If no information is printed on the coil, then use the range of 170 to 500 ohms. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X100 (if available, otherwise use the nearest ohm setting). Place a probe on each terminal. The multitester should display a reading that matches the coil's rating or if you don't know the rating then it should fall into the range of 170 to 500 ohms. If the water inlet valve does not pass this test, it should be replaced. If the inlet valve has two coils, test the second coil in the same way (note that they may not have the same ohm rating). The valve can also fail mechanically. So even if it passes the electrical test, it may still require replacement. If you have ruled out all other possibilities, go ahead and replace the valve. Check the tap valve.A bad tap valve-the little device that connects the ice maker's water supply tube to the water pipe-may cause the problem where the ice maker's supply tube connects to the water pipe. If necessary, replace the inlet valve and the tap valve. For the tap valve, use the type that requires you to drill a 1/4-inch hole (as opposed to the "self-piercing" type). You can buy anice maker connection kitand do this yourself, or call a repair person or plumber to install an inline water filter when replacing the valve. Lastly the ICE MAKER ASSEMBLY: If there are no ice buildup issues or suspected problems with the water supply, then you may have a problem with the ice maker control. The most common type of ice maker used in modern refrigerators is the heat release ice maker. The ice maker uses heat to release the ice cubes. If the water's route is blocked or the solenoid doesn't work-or if the bail wire is lifted-the ice maker won't make ice. (Also note that your home's water pressure may not be strong enough to serve an ice maker.) If you have a heat release or modular ice maker it will have a removable cover at the front. Behind the cover is a series of electrical test points that can be used to diagnose the ice maker. The unit can be manually operated by inserting an insulated jumper wire into test points "T" and "H" to initiate a "test harvest". On other ice makers jumper at points N & M (neutral to Motor) The jumper should be insulated 14 gauge solid wire that has the insulation stripped back about 3/4 of an inch on both ends, and bent into a "U" shape. When inserted into the test points for 5 to 10 seconds, the motor should start and the cycle will continue on its own. You may have to manually close the freezer door switch for this to operate. This test will simulate a real harvest cycle and will operate the ejector blades, shut off arm and the fill valve in the proper sequence, and will allow you to do a proper diagnosis. This is a live voltage test and should only be performed by a qualified person. If the motor does not start, you can verify that you have power to the ice maker at test points "L" and "N". If the ice maker is getting power and does not perform a cycle, then the module will need to be replaced On component mode ice makers the testing is done differently. Testing a thermostat in a component ice maker: The thermostat is located near the bottom ofthe support box. The thermostat is connected by two or three wires.Label the wire placement before disconnecting them. Remove thethermostat by loosening the clamp, by pushing back the retainerclips, or by removing the retaining screws. Test the thermostat forcontinuityusing amultitesterset to the ohms setting X1. Start by testing the thermostat whenit has come up to room temperature (about 20 minutes after removing it from the freezer). If the thermostat has two wires touch one probe to each wire. You should get a reading of infinity.Chill the thermostat in the freezer for about twenty minutes andretest. This time you should get a reading of zero (continuity). If the thermostat has three wires, number them 1, 2 and 3. Test combinations 1 & 2, 1 & 3and 2 & 3 and write down the results. Two of the combinations should yield a reading of infinity and one should yield a readingof zero. Now chill the thermostat in the freezer for about twenty minutes and retest. The combination that had a zero reading before, should now have a reading of infinity. One of the two other combinations should now yield a zero reading.If the thermostat fails this test, it should be replaced. Testing a modular ice maker 'sthermostatcan be tested and replaced individually. Test the thermostat forcontinuityusing amultitesterset to the ohms setting X1. Start by testing the thermostat when it is cold (10 degrees). Insert one probe into the hole labeled "T" and the other probe into the hole labeled "H". The meter should indicate zero resistance (continuity). After the ice maker has warmed up, repeat the test and this time the meter should indicate infiinity (no continuity).If the thermostat does not pass both tests, it should be replaced.

YOU DISCONECTED A WIRE WHEN YOU CLEANED IT.

Hello. May be the ice maker is overloading water. Is simple to regulate. You must take away the front cover from the ice maker, then will see a regulator screw, move it about 1/2 turn to minus posicion and check if water still leaking from the ice machine. Or maybe the water valve is damaged and never stops the water inlet

If you are getting ice then you still have a water supply. If not then make sure the water is turned on behind the fridge. I would next check for power to the solenoid when the door switch is pushed. Then check to make sure there is power to the switch. My best guess it that you have a faulty door switch or the wire was accidentally loosened or taken off when the person was working on the ice.

Check that the wires going to the temp. display has power on them, if "yes" change temp. display......Lights the powre goes to a switch on the door frame that sends power to the light in refrid.

This is the first sign of the compressor going out. You will either need to replace the compressor or purchase a new unit.

Could you please describe the problem you are having a little better?

Go to whirpool website to check, or check your manual. Sound is tellingyou door is open or temp is low

Note that the temperature in the freezer must be below 10 degrees F for the icemaker to cycle. The icemaker line is the smaller line (1/4") located in the back of the machine that runs from the valve to the filll tube. To test the valve and icemaker you have to manually advance the ice maker and wait for it to call for water with the 1/4" line disconnected from the valve. You can do this by getting a jumper wire, removing the cover of icemaker, which you jsut grab and pull off, and using the jumper wire insert one end of the wire into the cirle marked "M" and the other in the cicle marked "N". Leave there until you hear a click and sometimes see a little spark behind the modular head wheel. Also if you see ice in the maker that hasn't dumper and the teeth of the icemaker are facing any direction other than two o clock position, the icemaker is bad. Before doing any of the above though check the fill tube to be sure the no ice is blocking water from coming in. If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jason_4570d45317834dd3

the temp is set at 45 but the fridge is at 30 or lower. from time to time the fridge temp will come up to 33 and stay for a day or so then will go back down past freezing. I replaced the damper door because it broke part of the guide that the door travails on when opening and closing.

Hi Doug. I am sorry to learn that the unit is not cooling. Hereis a link to schedule a service call: http://bit.ly/yLv4Z5 . I hope this information is helpful. Sincerely, Melanie, Whirlpool Social media group.

Whirlpool refrigerators as well as the other brands that fall under the corporation most like at some point within the first five years will stop cooling and freezing, and the sound you here will be either a humming follow by a click or in some cases just the click alone. This is caused by the start device on the compressor. The relay part of it has basically burnt, fell apart inside, however you want to describe and is not passing the power to the compressor to come on. To access this pull the refridgerator out from the wall, and first and foremost unplug it. Once that is done remove the lower panel, sometimes cardboard sometimes metal which is held up by a few quarter inch screws. Place to the side and located the compressor. The box on the side is start device, it will have 2 or 3 wires going to it, most of the time red and white respectively. Also they maybe a black box thats connected to the start device and sits horizontallty. Thats the capacitor. Keep that if your going to do the repair yourself. I recommend doing it because its very easy and will save you alot of money. You can buy this part at www.repairclinic.com or at www.apdepot.com just be sure to have your make and model number handy. If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jason_4570d45317834dd3

either un plug the fridge and let it defrost manually, or empty and flush out drain line with a hose or hot water. when it goes into the defrost mode, water should drip into the pan..

Have you tried taking your ice bin out and checking for melted ice that can freeze locking the auger and preventing its movement? Another item to check is wiring going to and from the dispenser. Many times corrosion sets in the pin plug just behind kick plate. If the auger motor is not turning at all then I would believe that you may have a defective door light switch that also controls a lockout when door is opened. That light switch tells when door is opened while the opposite happens when door is closed. If that fails then we need to see how much voltage is present at the auger motor leads just behind the rear panel of your freezers auger motor assembly. To test the auger motor leads you need to have someone hold door light switch in and press dispense ice while someone checks motor leads with a voltage tester. If you have questions I will be glad to answer them for you, Thanks, Sea Breeze

if theres a clicking noise behind the unit,then the ptc overload relay is weak and dropping in and out which will short cycle the compressor, also a compressor thats going bad will draw excessive current and make the ptc drop in and out check start and run currents to determine this,also,but rare it could be the cold temp control