20 Most Recent Maytag 30" Built-In Single Electric Wall Oven - Black - Page 3 Questions & Answers

My Maytag oven also has a "Sabbath" mode and you can check your manual to see how to turn it on/off. I have a different model than yours, but to turn the "Sabbath" mode off on mine, the manual says to press and hold the CLOCK pad/button for five seconds.

none of the buttons work only clock

Hello,

I will advice you check ebay.com or amazom.com for the part needed.

Take care.

The control board. As long as none of the buttons appear to be stuck. Press each button one at a time feeling for the retraction or click. If this checks good replace the control board. Here is a link that should help http://appliancehelponline.com/ovenerc.html

replace touch pad

replace control

http://appliancejunk.com/ge/cookingproduct/31-20105.pdf
http://www.servicematters.com/maytag_library/docs/16000082.pdf
use these service manuals to troubleshoot

Hello there:
Yes these parts can be replaced by the customer but if this has a warranty that is covering the oven i would go ahead and use it cause there is always a possibility that the part may not be put in exactly the right way or correctly and this could cause further problems and like i was saying earlier about the warranty a lot of times there are updated parts that can be installed at no charge to the customer so all you have to do is to call the place of business that you purchased the appliance from and give them the make and model number of the appliance and describe to them what the problem is and ask about the warranty ok
Hope this is very helpful for you best regards Michael

Usually the problem is the heating element. This is easy to check and usually inexpensive. There is a video at www.appliancehelponline.com/servicemanual.html that will walk you thru testing and replacing. It may be a different model but the testing and replacement will be the same. You can also enter your model # for diagrams and illustrations of your specific model.

Hi,

Either the temperature sensor is defective or the control board is defective. On Most Models,the temperature sensor is located on the back wall of the oven , looks like a pencil sticking out . It can be checked with an ohmmeter and should read 1100 ohms at room temperature . As the temperature increases inside the oven the resistance increases in the sensor and that is how the control board turns the element off and on. You could unplug the sensor wires from the control board and then see if the oven still heats ( it shouldn't) If oven still heats you have a bad control board.

Let me know, if needed further assistance.

Hope i helped you.

Thanks for using ' Fixya ' and have a nice day!!

Your temperature control has gone out and this is simple repair!!

It is the whole front face w/ the buttons. My whole neigborhood has these ovens (same builder, same ovens) and this part lasts about 2-4 years. The part is about $165. You can see it on Home Depot's appliance repair site. It looks like there is nothing electronic, but there is, and it's busted. It is really easy to replace:
1. Turn off the breaker at your house's breaker panel.
2. Verify there is no power to the oven.
3. Open the oven door. Look on the right and left side of the oven. There should be 4-6 screws going from vertical trim pieces of the oven into your cabinets. Your builder may have also put screws from the bottom trim of the oven into your cabinets. Mine did not. Remove these screws.
4. After that, your oven should slide forward out of the cabinet. Pull it about 6 inches out.
5. There are two screws (1/4 inch hex headed screws) holding the front panel to the oven. Remove those.
6.Slide the front panel off.
7. Remove the computer ribbon looking wire from the back of the control panel. It's a strange connection - it should come out effortlessly when done right. The little grey connection that surrounds the wire's entry point stays on the panel, but a wedge is jammed between the grey surround and the wire. You pull the wedge out and the wire comes out...easier than my credit card out of my wallet.
8. Remove the four screws (again, 1/4 inch hex headed screws) connecting the thick, double layered circuit board and clock display from the metal face.
9. The metal face is what you need to replace. Pasted onto the front of the metal face is a super thin button panel, and that's the part that died, and will die again, and again, and again...
email me for pics [email protected]

It is the whole front face w/ the buttons. My whole neigborhood has these ovens (same builder, same ovens) and this part lasts about 2-4 years. The part is about $165. You can see it on Home Depot's appliance repair site. It looks like there is nothing electronic, but there is, and it's busted. It is really easy to replace:
1. Turn off the breaker at your house's breaker panel.
2. Verify there is no power to the oven.
3. Open the oven door. Look on the right and left side of the oven. There should be 4-6 screws going from vertical trim pieces of the oven into your cabinets. Your builder may have also put screws from the bottom trim of the oven into your cabinets. Mine did not. Remove these screws.
4. After that, your oven should slide forward out of the cabinet. Pull it about 6 inches out.
5. There are two screws (1/4 inch hex headed screws) holding the front panel to the oven. Remove those.
6.Slide the front panel off.
7. Remove the computer ribbon looking wire from the back of the control panel. It's a strange connection - it should come out effortlessly when done right. The little grey connection that surrounds the wire's entry point stays on the panel, but a wedge is jammed between the grey surround and the wire. You pull the wedge out and the wire comes out...easier than my credit card out of my wallet.
8. Remove the four screws (again, 1/4 inch hex headed screws) connecting the thick, double layered circuit board and clock display from the metal face.
9. The metal face is what you need to replace. Pasted onto the front of the metal face is a super thin button panel, and that's the part that died, and will die again, and again, and again...
Email me for some pictures:
[email protected]

I had the same problem. I turned the breaker off for the stove for 24 hours. (unplugging will do the same thing, I just couldn't get to the back of the stove.)

I turned the breaker back on and it works fine.

If it is a fan assisted oven, and the fan is working o/k, then you need to replace the oven element.
Please rate my solution.
Thanks.

Try turning the breaker off to the unit. A power cycle may help it.

Are all of the conductors the same size? (red black bare and blk/yel)

Usually this turns out to be a problem with the main clock/electronic control but the only way to know for sure is to do some electrical testing with a volt/ohm meter and the wiring diagram located within the appliance. If possible use the meter and the wiring diagram to check input/output voltages looking for discrepancies between the diagram and the actual meter readings.


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