20 Most Recent Whirlpool 30" Self-Cleaning Freestanding Gas Range - White-on-White - Page 7 Questions & Answers

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The bake element is the heating element that is found at the bottom of the oven. Most electric ovens use both the bake element and the broil element in a bake cycle, with the bake element performing 90% of the heating. If the bake element isn't working, the oven may not heat. To help determine if the bake element is defective you should first do a visual check. If the element is blistered or separated then it should be replaced. If the element appears to look normal, then turn the oven on to a bake function for a minute and then turn it off. Check the element for signs of heating and if it is still cold then it may be defective. Disconnect the power and then remove the back panel. First check the wires as they may have become loose or corroded. If the element appears to be fine visually, test it for continuity with a multi-meter. ( by placing the each of the meter prongs on each end of the heater element connectors) If the element is burned or no longer has continuity, it will need to be replaced. Depending on the manufacturer of the element, you will normally read between 19 ohms and 115 ohms The oven safety valve (also called the gas valve) is the part that ensures that gas is not released until the igniter has reached the correct temperature needed to ignite the gas. While this part can fail, it is uncommon. If the hot surface igniter does not glow you should first verify that you have voltage to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If voltage is lost at the valve terminals then you should verify the continuity of the bi-metal in the valve using a multi-meter. Sometimes the oven thermostat or oven sensor can be calibrated wrong, or it may be faulty. If your particular range has an oven that uses an electronic thermostat, and the oven temperature is off by tens of degrees, you probably have to replace it. On most units that have a mechanical thermostat, you can actually remove the thermostat knob, and adjust the knob to more accurately represent the actual setting of the thermostat. On many models, there's a screw on the back of the knob with a small calibration plate or ring. You can loosen this screw and adjust the calibration plate. Remember to tighten the screw again. If yours isn't adjustable, and the temperature is off by a large amount, you should just replace the thermostat. Or Oven safety valve needs to be checked with multi meter ohms / voltage

the time? You can turn off the clock display from the oven's control panel. Look for a setting that says "Clock" or "Time of Day" and set it to OFF. If you don't have this option on your oven, contact the manufacturer directly and they will be able to help you.

To be honest, it sounds like you purchased a secondhand, faulty appliance. Although it might be loose connections due to the move, the most likely issue would be the main board and due to the price of them, that is often a good enough reason to buy a new stove. https://www.google.com/search?q=Whirlpool+gr478lxpq1+stove Error messages are normally searchable, but not that one. Take it back or call out a Whirlpool Service engineer to diagnose, fix and set it up. It is a sorry tale and not an easy one to fix. https://www.google.com/search?q=Whirlpool+gr478lxpq1+stove+AM71+UI42EEWET+107 ..

Check on ebay they have companys that sell replacemnt parts .

possible shorted ignitor replace first unplug then try if doesnt pop circuit then replace

The capacitor on the back of the display is failing. Heat warms up the gel inside it. The capacitor can be replaced by an electronics tech or you can buy a new control board display..

It sounds like a control board issue, or the power supply that feeds the control board. They are expensive so professional diagnosis and replacement is advised.

Remove the display and on the back you will see a capacitor. It needs replacing.

If the button in question is on the top left of the control panel, this is for Automatic Convection Bake. This is the control panel picture, http://www.youserguide.com/wiki/Whirlpool_Use_and_Care_Guide_-_9782476-011 ; the word Convection is below the top pair of buttons with Auto to the left. Set the oven temperature to the regular setting for your food. The oven will reduce the temperature to the appropriate temperature for baking with the convection fan running. You do need to check the food more frequently. See http://www.youserguide.com/wiki/Whirlpool_Use_and_Care_Guide_-_9782476-016 . I hope this helps. Cindy Wells

Since the sensor is new, I'd check the wiring between the sensor and the control board. You need to check for any breaks (loss of continuity). Check the connections for the wiring harness for bent pins or corrosion. (If you want to rule out a bad sensor, unplug it. Then check the resistance across the pins. Also check for a short between the sensor case and each of the two pins.) If the sensor and wiring are good, then the control board is probably faulty. Unfortunately, that part isn't available at most sites. There may be some rare places that rebuild or have re-manufactured the electronic control. I hope this helps. Cindy Wells

We bought this oven too for our newly renovated home, we used it for six days before it failed due to an electronic error (F6E6: Appliance Manager 1 Board Communication). After a failed warranty repair attempt and multiple phone calls/complaints we eventually got Whirlpool to agree to give us a new oven. We had to wait six MONTHS for this new oven to arrive due to it being out of manufacture. Our second oven arrived and worked for 8 weeks until this weekend, it failed again with an F6E6 error! Now to try and get it repaired replaced! There is obviously something wrong with the electronic design or poor-quality components are being used. We strongly recommend you do not buy this oven. We bought a matching combi oven from the same range which means we have to stick with this oven or we will end up with ovens that don't match in a brand new kitchen!

E1 F3 indicates that the control board isn't getting information from the oven temperature sensor. The temperature sensor, the control board or the wiring between the two could be the problem. (For a double oven, this would apply to the lower oven.) Unplug the appliance (or turn off at the circuit breaker). After a minute, try turning it back on. If the error recurs, turn off power again. Check the resistance across the temperature sensor. At room temperature, it should be around 1800 Ohm. Replace if the resistance is significantly different. Check the wiring harness for corrosion at the connectors and continuity on all wires. Replace the wiring if there is any damage. (You can try cleaning the pins gently. Make sure none of the pins are bent.) If the wiring and temperature sensor are fine, then the control board is faulty. Replace the control board. I hope this helps. Please post a comment with the model number of your range/oven for a parts diagram. The model number will be on the door frame or on the frame for the oven drawer. Cindy Wells

bad control board

It has the worst manual I have ever seen but my thought is has a 'Delayed Start' feature, also known as an 'Oven Timer. https://manualzz.com/doc/58865048/whirlpool-g2p-62f-01-ss-oven-program-chart https://www.google.com/search?q=whirlpool+model+g2p62f+ss+01+manual ..

gas valve stuck on

bad gas valve or plugged burner tube

Oven keeps beeping: As there is no reprogramming of most control boards try this, disconnect the power and wait 30 seconds and then reconnecting the power. If it's an "F1" fault code this generally implies an electronic oven control (EOC) failure. Disconnect the power, wait 30 seconds or longer and then reapply power. If "F1" returns upon power-up, replace the electronic oven control. The oven control can be accessed and replaced from the rear of the control panel. NOTE:Disconnect the power cord from the power source before removing the panel from behind the console. If its an F2 ERROR CODE, The F2 error indicates an open circuit in the oven temperature probe. Your range has a resettable thermostat in series with the oven temperature probe. If this thermostat opens the clock will display F2 and the oven won't heat. You can reset the thermostat by pushing in the reset button on top of the thermostat. Some ovens have an alarm that will beep continuously every six seconds to alert you that the oven is still on. Usually, a kitchen timer that you have set will cause the beeping, but occasionally it can be an error with the oven's settings. If it is the kitchen timer, you can simply push the "Kitchen Timer On/Off" button to end the continuous beeping. If that does not stop the beeping, it is probably beeping due to an error. You can turn the continuous beeping off but you may still need to troubleshoot the issue that is causing the beeping noise. Read more : http://www.ehow.com/how_12086370_ge-oven-stop-beeping.html

I can't work out what the x'd out word is! The two glass layers normally fit into metal channels, take the door off and look for screws. Spares are fairly easy to obtain. https://www.google.com/search?q=whirlpool+double+oven+door+glass+cleaning ..