20 Most Recent Bakers Pride Y-600 Gas Single Oven - Page 2 Questions & Answers

Assuming you have the oven adjusted properly maybe the thermostat might need to be replaced?
I would try and adjust the flame to a lower height before replacing the stat. If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

Hi,

There can be a number of things causing that...
Is the oven vented? If so then is there a good cap on the pipe?? is the vent pipe high enough above the roof line?
Is there a draft diverter at the back of the oven where the pipe hooks on? A direct connection can cause this...
Is there a vent hood in the room that the oven is in??? Is there enough makeup air, or is the vent blower pulling air back down the stack?
Is the main burners "pulling" the pilot flame away from the thermocouple?
Is the "hood" on the pilot flame adjusted properly to keep the flame on the thermocouple?
Is the thermocouple positioned in the flame properly?
Is the thermocouple correctly tighten into the gas valve?


These questions are what I would be looking for if I was troubleshooting that appliance...

heatman101

Bakers Pride used several different safety valves over the years. If your oven has a pilot valve that has a beige know that you hold in and turn to light the pilot, then after it lights you need to turn the beige know another half round to the "on" setting. If you push in a red button to light the pilot, it may not be getting enough heat on the thermocouple where the pilot flame should be heating it up. Be sure the main gas valve on the front of the oven is turned to the on position also. On some models the pilot will light with the main gas valve in the off position. If you look at the pilot flame while it is burning, make sure that it is hitting the pencil sized thermopile enough to make it glow red. If not bend it slightly to improve the heating.

yes you will have air in it you will neede to pruge the line near to the heater

Hello. Usually this problem is related to the pilot being dirty, and not heating the bulb for the safety device properly/hot enough to fully open the valve. If you have a general purpose mini torch you can heat the metal bulb near the pilot with it, if this is the problem, the safety will open, and the main burner will come on. CAREFUL, you are not on/around the main burner, as it will allow gas to come on to the main burner, and if your pilot is not working properly, might not light the gas. Get the pilot cleaned and adjusted.

or... :) I know... your safety has failed, allowing gas to the pilot, but internally is not opening, this requires replacement. Last though, it could be your thermostat, its last in line, and would require replacement. The safety, and the thermostat are mechanical valves, open or closed depending on its function.

If you have a more current type, they will have a combination valve, and thermopile/thermocouple that are electromechanical, your thermostat at this point can be either mechanical, or electromechanical. This system has a few more possible causes for your symptom.
You can tell which you have by how you light the pilot, have a red button on the front of the unit, by the on/off valve? this is the first type.
Have to open a small door to access a knob, turn it to pilot, and hold in? this is the latter type.
ask if you need more help.
Hope that helps, and thank you.

Hello. Usually this problem is related to the pilot being dirty, and not heating the bulb for the safety device properly/hot enough to fully open the valve. If you have a general purpose mini torch you can heat the metal bulb near the pilot with it, if this is the problem, the safety will open, and the main burner will come on. CAREFUL, you are not on/around the main burner, as it will allow gas to come on to the main burner, and if your pilot is not working properly, might not light the gas. Get the pilot cleaned and adjusted.

or... :) I know... your safety has failed, allowing gas to the pilot, but internally is not opening, this requires replacement. Last though, it could be your thermostat, its last in line, and would require replacement. The safety, and the thermostat are mechanical valves, open or closed depending on its function.

If you have a more current type, they will have a combination valve, and thermopile/thermocouple that are electromechanical, your thermostat at this point can be either mechanical, or electromechanical. This system has a few more possible causes for your symptom.
You can tell which you have by how you light the pilot, have a red button on the front of the unit, by the on/off valve? this is the first type.
Have to open a small door to access a knob, turn it to pilot, and hold in? this is the latter type.
ask if you need more help.
Hope that helps, and thank you.

Hi there. If you have an older oven, it most likely does not have a combination valve with a thermopile, not the same as a thermocouple, or a hydraulic safety. If there is a red button sticking out the panel where your thermostat is, you have a hydraulic safety. What you want can be done with wiring, solenoids,timers, and the correct location in the gas line, but would require a bit of modification. I would only use a servicer for this type of modification, if they will even do it, could you find someone to do it, with little concern about safety? sure, but it must be understood, you are taking the risk, and responsibility. This is definitely not a do it yourselfer task.

Hi there, hope this helps. On the front of the oven, usually on the left side, where your thermostat is, has a red button sticking out, that is your pilot safety. To light it, you need to open the lower door, and aprox. in the center of the area, is your pilot, has a small pipe going to it, you have to hold the red button in, and light the pilot in that lower chamber, and most of the time, once the pilot is lit, you must hold the button for 60 to 90 seconds. If it does not stay lit when you let go of tthe button, you may have additional problems, let us know. And thank you.

Hi, not sure if you ever received a reply, but there is a setting known as "bypass" on commercial thermostats, if you took the cover off to replace it, you can access this screw, it is part of the body of the thermostat, either to the left or the right of the knob shaft, usually has a "B" stamped, or molded into the body. What this setting does is when the thermostat reaches temperature, it would normally close, shutting off the supply to the burner, thus the temp would begin to fall, by the time it opened back up, the temp would have fallen too much, causing a large temp swing. The bypass setting opens or shuts a passage that "bypasses" the thermostat main valve, keeping just a little burner, making the swing, or fluctuation smaller. So, you probably have a setting too big, causing your bypass flame to be too big, raising, or keeping the temp too high, try turning it in (cw) to lower it slightly, a small turn makes a huge difference, so go easy. Hope that helps, and thank you.

Hi, those screws are for the calibration of the knob to the thermostat, so your calibration is correct. Most likely you will have to contact a servicer to check the calibration, and set you knob and plate where they will align with the actual temp again.
Hope that helps, and thank you.

thanx for the email reply .oven lighting problem was caused by the pilot light not quite touching the flame tubing

So James what is you question?

http://www.bakerspride.com/docs/default-source/manuals/convection-ovens/bco-e-gdco-e-convection-ovens-ops-manual.pdf?sfvrsn=4 http://www.bakerspride.com/docs/default-source/manuals/convection-ovens/bco-e-gdco-e-convection-ovens-ops-manual.pdf?sfvrsn=4

http://www.cpsohio.com/Bakers_Pride Bakers Pride OEM Replacement Parts Manuals CPS Commercial Kitchen...

Gee. He said electric oven . No gas. No pilot.