20 Most Recent Frigidaire GLER331A Electric Dryer Questions & Answers

The drum shaft came loose from drum. You can YouTube it for procedure of disassembly of dryer. Remount shaft, if screws are bad may need new shaft with screws, make sure it is tight to drum. While you have it apart you can clean out lint.

hi there......when you replaced the drive belt you most likley disturbed the drum on its bearing seats (small plastic curved units) or indeed knocked 1 out altogeathrer...this would account for the loud bearing or metallic sound...it may also be the rear bearing these tend to eventually rund dry and fail..

regards Sir GalAHAD

Good Afternoon Justin - I understand you are seeking a Timer Wiring Diagram for this particular unit. I have located the Owner's Guide, Parts Manual, Wiring Diagram, and etc. on the manufacture website. Hope this helps and should you have any further needs or questions please feel free to reconnect.

Hello - Typically speaking the element is located towards the bottom of the drum area. However, to better address may I please have the model number?

You gonna need to take the drye apart and put the heater pan back in place. If you try and operate it now you gonna mess up the heater. My heater replacement video shows how:Here is my page which shows Frigidaire dryer repair videos. If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

About 12 years ago I had this problem w/ an elec. dryer. The safety switch on that unit was simply a temperature snap switch. It looks like a disc about the size of a nickle and about 1/4 of an inch thick with 2 spade connectors. Unplug the dryer from the power supply!!! pull off the 2 femae connectors on the spades on the switch & then test it with an ohm meter. It should be a closed circuit (as I remember). You are responsible for providing the common sense & protecting your self. If your not sure call a professional.

L-2 goes directly to the element. You my friend have a shorted heater element which continues to feed whenever the timer is turned on. You need to inspect the element and see if it is touching the pan. If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

Take a look at this video.

What is the problem you are having?

The following link explains how to convert your appliance from a 3-prong to a 4-prong power cord:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r793520-3_prong_4_prong_power_cord_conversion

I hope this helps you. Let me know if you still have questions.

Hi,

There can be many reasons why your dryer will not start or turn...

The most common causes are the belt breaking or jumping off, or the motor goingbad...

Here are a couple of tips that I wrote will help you to figure out why yourdryer will not run...

Dryer Repair - The Dryer is not Turning

Dryer Repair - The dryer will not start


heatman101


-=-

Hi berwanger44i...

Here are a few things to check:
ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
Check the Door Switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch.
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape.
If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse as it is faulty.
If you have an ohm meter then you can test the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse,
then you do not have to tape the wires together as described above.
To test your thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse remove the wires from the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse and check for continuity, if you DO NOT have continuity then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse.
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST AS THIS COULD CAUSE A FIRE BECAUSE YOU HAVE REMOVED THE SAFETY.
Check your blower wheel to make sure it is secure to the shaft and not plugged with lint,socks,etc.
If the thermal fuse overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset.
You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, remove both wires from the thermal fuse and put the test probes to each of the ends of the thermal fuse, if no continuity then replace the thermal fuse.
A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat.
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
For video and pictures on how to replace a generic element go to the following website:
davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYreplacingWPLdryels.htm
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Hi nancy huerta...

You can change the cord or the receptical...
It will be easier to change the cord...
Purchase a four prong plug cord that will fit into your receptical, then wire your dryer for 4 wire instead of three wire use.
To see a picture and explanation of how to wire your dryer for a 4 wire plug go to the following webpage.
Please take time to rate me

http://www.selfhelpandmore.com/switch-outlet/dryer-circuit-wiring-and-hookup.php

3 wires -- Outside two wires (Line 1 and Line 2) Center (Nutral).
4 wires-- Green (ground) Red (Line 1) White (Nutral) Black (Line 2).

You have a terminal block on the back of the dryer that has only space for three wires. The Red and Black go on the out side two posts or screws (does not matter which is on the right or left). The White wire goes in the center. The forth and final wire is the Green which should go under a ground screw located near the terminal block. This screw is usually indicated by the ground symbol which is three horizontal lines that decrease in size as the go down. If there is a copper "bridge" from the center of the terminal block to the ground screw remove and discard.

Cheers.

Hi,

There can be many reasons why your dryer will not start or turn...

The most common causes are the belt breaking or jumping off, or the motor goingbad...

Here are a couple of tips that I wrote will help you to figure out why yourdryer will not run...

Dryer Repair - The Dryer is not Turning

Dryer Repair - The dryer will not start


heatman101

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There are no fuses,I would check the dryer vent and make sure it is not stopped up with lint, then I would check the elements.