Top 20 Dometic RM2193 Compact Refrigerator With Ice Box Questions & Answers

Usually from the Bottom of the refrigerator you should have minimum of 43f or colder than ambient. Should work very close to same on both gas and 110, on Dc it may not cool as good. From your description you may have an issue with ventilation. Cold air needs to flow in through the lower vent and out through the upper, if it cant, cooling efficiency is lost. Adding a fan kit can help on hot days. On gas you may have particles that fell down in the burner. Just take the cover off, take the burner screw out and blow down into burner to clean out. compressor or canned air works fine. If cleaning the burner doesn't improve it enough on gas to match electric you have to make sure your regulator on your rv has enough pressure... the fridges require 11 inches of water column.

It will take some diagnostics to find the answer so I am placing a link to a diagnostics manual=> Dometic RM2193 Diagnostics Manual You either have a defective 12V heating element, blown fuse or a defective switch. I am here should you have questions, Thanks John T. Appliance 911

NOTE: This
is a multi-solution answer since I don't have all the tech from your question to pinpoint your problem
But the solution is in here generically, if you read and study the solutions very,very carefully.

Sounds like the cold control has stuck . Unplug the two wires from the cold control and plug them together. Turn one wire over and plug it into the other. away from the cold control.
The cold control is the knob in the ref that turns it on and off and has numbers on it. (Thermostat)
If it runs then that cold control (Thernostat) is the problem.
If that doesn't work DO THIS:
The relay on the compressor may need replaced
A relay starts the compressor with a higher voltage and then quickly kicks out
Thats what is happening with yours
Its best for a tech to replace The relay but you can do it
Take your model number to your Local Appliance parts store they will have a diagram
showing you how to install the relay. Its called a hard start relay
also try hooking the two wires together on the cold control to route around the cold control.

If you need more help GO HERE:

http://www.applianceaid.com/procedures.html


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NOTE: This
is a multi-solution answer since I don't have all the tech from your question to pinpoint your problem
But the solution is in here generically, if you read and study the solutions very,very carefully.
Check Temp inside freezer. It has to be down to about 10 or 15 degrees
This can cause slow ice making if its too high even tho its freezing everything else at 25 degrees
See if water is in icemaker.
Pour water in Ice Maker and wait to see if it ejects.
If it ejects thenyou need to replace water valve in rear bottom of fridge(Its the part that
attaches to water line out of wall)
If it doesn't eject then it is a faulty Ice Maker.
If its leaking or no water at icemaker or door either one, then the valve at the rear bottom of ref needs replacing
First I would check the fan in the freezer. Listen to see if it is running
It moves air to the ref from the freezer
Then check to see if freezer control is turned WARMER, which makes the Ref. colder
Also if it is getting drinking water to the door but not to the icemaker (or vice versa) Then you need to replace
the water valve at the bottom rear of the fridge. It is a double valve and one side is not working
Also this might be a common Defrost problem, Ice
is not being melted by the defrost system.The fan can't blow through the coils into the fridge.
Take out back panel of freezer to check for ice buildup. The coils should be clean.
There are three components to a defrost system- a heater,heater thermostat, and a timer unless you have a defrost electronic card.
Its best handled by a Technician but you could possibly do it by taking your model number to the nearest appliance parts store and asking for the parts. They are mostly located in freezer ,behind back panel on freezer coils.except the card which is usually located in ref The parts store will have info
Also check fan undernearh Ref in the rear
Clean condenser coils underneath
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http://www.gas-refrigerators.com/pdf/RM2193-parts.pdf

I would suspect either the DC Switch - Item 406 or the heating element Item 446.

But before you start ordering parts you might take the time to clean the DC leads to the unit, since they corrode quickly. If you have a multimeter you can also check the switch to make sure which part should be replaced.

http://www.gas-refrigerators.com/pdf/RM2193-parts.pd According to the wireing diagram you DON'T switch both switches on at the same time.

http://www.gas-refrigerators.com/pdf/RM2193-parts.pdf Most likely cause is the thermocoupler which is item 428 on page 6 and 7

One of the first things I advise a new owner of any RV is to have the propane system checked by a certified RV technician. I have seen brand new units from factory with propane lines left unattached to appliances, as well as past owners of used units who have decided to try a few things of their own that were extremely dangerous. This unit apparently has sat for approx. 2 yrs, and spiders etc can build nests, bees can build nests that will block ventilation etc, which all can create a situation for a fire or worse. PLEASE, spend the $60, let them clean and inspect the system to give you piece of mind and know that it is safe for your family and friends as well as you. My guess is that it is not a serious problem, and good chance still covered on 3 yr. warranty.

Ammonia is what some manufactures use for the refrigerant. You may have a leak in the copper tubing. It may cost more than a new one to have repaired, unless it is under warranty. Sorry.

must be the thermocouple I wpuld replace it . you can test them but if your going to remove it to test just replace there not expensive . and then you know it's working .. mm

Dometic part numbers:
Upper side vent 8030211.331
Lower side vent 8030211.332
available at most RV dealers and camping stores
I would download the user's manual from the dometic website, it's very helpful

The flue baffle was the solution that worked for me as well. Below is a response I posted to a similar post.

------

I had a similar problem. The flue would get hot and the cooling tubes would get "warm". The refrig would get a LITTLE cool but nothing to be of any help.

I solved it though...it turns out there is a "flue baffle" (twisty little metal thing) that is supposed to hang in the inside of the baffle. It hangs from a screw found on top of the baffle and it is supposed to hang down.

The screw that held mine was corroded and flue baffle had fallen into the baffle and landed on top of the burner.

I ended up fishing the flue baffle out of the top of the baffle with a coat hanger, then rehanging it using a new screw. That solved my problem.

Not sure if this will work for you or not but good luck.

By the way, you can find an owner's manual with a diagram showing the flue, the flue baffle, and the piece of metal holding it here:

http://www.fourwheelcampers.com/DometicRefrigerator.pdf

Look on p.9, figure 9. Item C is the flue baffle and the wire holding it. Item B is the screw that was corroded on mine, and ended up dropping the baffle down to the bottom of the flue.

Below is a link to some generic directions on solving fridge-related problems. I found it to be VERY useful.

http://rvmobile.com/Tech/Technical.htm

Hello Barry,

More than likely, your heating element has become shorted to its case, thereby allowing current to flow outside of the neutral, tripping the GFI. If you have a multimeter, you can measure the resistance of the heater itself (AC heater should be 125 ohms, +/-10%). There should not be any continuity between each of the heater wires to the case of the heater itself.
Service Manual
bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/rm2100.pdf
Owners Manual
bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/rm2193.pdf

Ian - are you pushing the igniter button rapidly while holding the gas supply button in? This works for us. If you have any fluid in the gas line it will not light; you would need to get this checked out. Access is through the bottom outside vent. Good luck.
Sue

I had a similar problem. The flue would get hot and the cooling tubes would get "warm". The refrig would get a LITTLE cool but nothing to be of any help.

I solved it though...it turns out there is a "flue baffle" (twisty little metal thing) that is supposed to hang in the inside of the baffle. It hangs from a screw found on top of the baffle and it is supposed to hang down.

The screw that held mine was corroded and flue baffle had fallen into the baffle and landed on top of the burner.

I ended up fishing the flue baffle out of the top of the baffle with a coat hanger, then rehanging it using a new screw. That solved my problem.

Not sure if this will work for you or not but good luck.

By the way, you can find an owner's manual with a diagram showing the flue, the flue baffle, and the piece of metal holding it here:

http://www.fourwheelcampers.com/DometicRefrigerator.pdf

Look on p.9, figure 9. Item C is the flue baffle and the wire holding it. Item B is the screw that was corroded on mine, and ended up dropping the baffle down to the bottom of the flue.

Below is a link to some generic directions on solving fridge-related problems. I found it to be VERY useful.

http://rvmobile.com/Tech/Technical.htm

well the flame must not be correct...make sure the burner is pushed up in the flu properly.....if the element does not get the correct heat it will not work properly.

low on refrigerant gas or dc voltage drop.

Hi Brian,

You don't want to use a screen that is made to fit. The original part was designed for a specific flame. That being said, colaws rv salvage may have a replacement burner in stock, and you can also try calling up a company that rebuilds cooling units for rv fridges.

I had a similar problem. The flue would get hot and the cooling tubes would get "warm". The refrig would get a LITTLE cool but nothing to be of any help.

I solved it though...it turns out there is a "flue baffle" (twisty little metal thing) that is supposed to hang in the inside of the baffle. It hangs from a screw found on top of the baffle and it is supposed to hang down.

The screw that held mine was corroded and flue baffle had fallen into the baffle and landed on top of the burner.

I ended up fishing the flue baffle out of the top of the baffle with a coat hanger, then rehanging it using a new screw. That solved my problem.

Not sure if this will work for you or not but good luck.

By the way, you can find an owner's manual with a diagram showing the flue, the flue baffle, and the piece of metal holding it here:

http://www.fourwheelcampers.com/DometicRefrigerator.pdf

Look on p.9, figure 9. Item C is the flue baffle and the wire holding it. Item B is the screw that was corroded on mine, and ended up dropping the baffle down to the bottom of the flue.

Below is a link to some generic directions on solving fridge-related problems. I found it to be VERY useful.

http://rvmobile.com/Tech/Technical.htm

If this box is part of an RV, the factory has probably also provided a transformer and rectifier to supply ~12 VDC when connected to standard AC mains. Switching it to the twelve volt setting should be all you need to do. If it isn't cooling, check your breaker box to see if it has tripped the breaker circuit it is on. If you find no tripped breakers, it is possible that the rectifier has failed or possibly the lousy wiring one finds mostly in RVs.
If there is outside access to the area of the fridge, open it and check for a good-sized transformer in that general area. If you can locate it, you should be able to make some measurements with a cheap digital multimeter to locate the problem.