Top 20 Dometic NDR 1062 Refrigerator - Page 6 Questions & Answers

check /replace the thermostat

it is possible that the condenser is too hot to transfer the heat because the air temp is too hot test that by spraying water into the fan ( mist) to cool the condenser and see if that stops it or move the unit to a shady area rather than on the roof top

Might be a defrosting problem or the evaporated fan motor isn't working

Where is the thermostat for unit located

Time for new one Good luck mai

Freezer /fridge leaking water/ice frozen in fridge and or freezer, or leaks on floor Usually due to CONDENSATION due to bad door seals or a plugged evaporator drain line? Can use a soft flexable tubing and very hot water to clean it out. Bad door seals usually need replacement, but u can use a blow dryer and something to pry it closer to the door wall while blowing hot air on to it. To create a seal, to test for bad door seals place a dollar bill in between the door and wall of fridge where it closes. Then slide out the dollar bill with door closed. It should offer some resistance and not be easy to pull out. Fix any gaps in the door seal.Pack out the seal underneath the areas where the door seal has the gaps. This can be done with a small strip of weather stripping, as shown here, or a bit of tightly rolled up paper under the door seal. Alternatively, you can heat the door seal up with a hair dryer to fix the gaps. This softens the door seal and allows you to stretch it. Most all fridges have a drain. Look inside your fridge for a "V" shaped channel with a small hole. This hole leads to a tube and a small pan which sits on top of your refrigerator's compressor. The defrost cycle causes water to run into the channel, down the tube, and then it generally evaporates with the heat of the hot condenser/compressor. However, if that tube is clogged with food crumbs, particles , debris etc, you will have to clear it to get back to a normal mode of operation. A toothpick, pipecleaner, straw or a cotton bud can often do the trick. Another trick one can use is to connect a copper tube wire with one end going into the drain hole then attach the other end to the heater wrap it around heater a few times. That will take care of the drain problem when it comes to ice build up but not food build up. Even a frost free freezer will still ice up at times in the areas away from the heated defrost area and the drain line can freeze. This icing causes the pipe work to the compressor to ice over or sweat and cause a puddle. Or if the drainage has frozen over, it will need to be de-iced. ( usually the line is under the freezer bottom plate covering. Towards the back of the unit) And there is another inside the fridge area also. Give the freezer a good overnight defrost until it's totally clear of ice in addition to making sure the drain is clear to the pan at the back and then restart the freezer. God is so good: so this is why I give free advice so please thank him not me. OTHER THINGS TO CHECK ARE THE DEFROST TERMINATOR AND THE HEATER ELEMENT FOR COBNTINUITY. http://www.appliancerepair.net/refrigerator-repair-1.html Refrigeration System Basics Chapter 1

Hello James Hunter, Dometic: Enjoyed being here before... 40+ foot... (I'm guessing mid 1980's)... As I recall... my neighbor had a magnificent "Beaverton, Oregon Coach. Didn't have a washer dryer... nor satellite dish... but pretty much everything else...!! Dometic support staff documents & tech support were great. More trouble than another house & a half (I loved it) ... ((all for a few tumblers of Jack, Old No. 7, ... Plus parts)). I'm working on the ICE-MAKER name... but the FRIG was a DOMETIC... really nice unit... Only ever had two troubles with it... one was a simple power issue... the other was a thermocouple... Did have early Mobile Phone, ship-to-shore... & CB... Everything was serviceable on it... He had ALL THE ORIGINAL parts lists... Awesome unit... If you need to get any serious help trouble shooting this.. the trouble charts are in the manual.. While it was NOT LARGE it was great engineering! Check out the MANUAL below for trouble shooting procedures. http://www.bing.com/search?q=dometic+rm361&src=IE-SearchBox&FORM=IENTSR&pc=EUPP_ For the free PDF Manual - Go to: http://webspace.webring.com/

google search shows that it is a 3 way fridge --12v/ mains /gas it will operate off the battery, mains plug in ,or from a gas bottle so --yes it will operate without a gas connection it is not suitable for a built in application but is stand alone unit

FREEZER /FRIDGE NOT COOLING: Optimum refrigerator temperature at or below40° F(4° C). The freezer temperature should be0° F(-18° C). Check temperatures periodically. Appliance thermometers are the best way of knowing these Check ur cold control thermostat, ur thermistors in both fridge and freezer ( they should be checked for both ohms and for amount of current being put out as per ur model ), ur air flow vent from freezer to fridge.( to make sure it opens and closes without any restrictions) On thermistors check for A close circuit and amount of ohms not just an Ohm reading. As per ur model. Most should atleast show 1200 ohms. Also Check door seals for leakage. Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited. FAN check to see if it is operating or restricted A fan that is not blowing or restricted will not circulate the cold air properly. Often, the first thing that folks do when their refrigerator starts to feel warm is turn both controls on the coldest settings.This is exactly the WRONG thing to do.Turning the cold control to the coldest settingwillkeep the compressor running longer and make lots of cold air. But turning the air door to the coldest settingclosesthe airway to the food section. Lots of cold air is made, but most of it stays in the freezer section, and the food section actually getswarmer. Condenser Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator. May also need to check the defrost timer, u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad? Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next. Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance.. THE COMPRESSOR: If you hear a clicking sound coming from the back of your refrigerator/freezer, then the problem is most likely the compressor, relay and or capacitor is overheating or not getting proper power and will not start.The compressor is the component on your refrigerator that allows your refrigerator to cool. If this component is not working properly your refrigerator will stop cooling. Most of the time the compressor is not the component that has failed. To check ur compressor with multi meter: Disconnect and remove the relay and capacitor from compressor, some located next to compressor in a casing. You wills see 3 prongs coming out of compressor. 1 goes to ur srtart winding, 1 goes to ur run winding and the center goes to ur ground. Place ur meter connector or prong on the start prong and the other on the ground (center prong) take note of the reading in OHMS for example 5 ohms. Next place meter prong on run prong and the center ground prong agin. Take note of the reading in OHMS. Example 4 ohms Next place meter prong on the start prong and the other on the run prong, now take note of the reading example 9 ohms. Now match the total of this ohms test with the total of ur two separate test. 9 ohms, if they match ur ok give or take 5 percent plus or minus. One more test to make to test of there is a short in compressor attach meter prong to ground prong and rub the other end of meter prong to metal ( scrape the metal clean of paint and test on metal surface not painted surface. If it shows continuity or ohms , u have a short in ur compressor. It should show infinity TO REPLACE RELAY AND CAPACITOR WITH A HARDSTART KIT YOU CAN USE A 3 in 1 start kit for compressors sizes 1/4 through 1/3 HP. And a 5 in 1 for higher H.P. (BE SURE TO MATCH WITH UR COMPRESSOR MODEL NUMBER AND TYPE) The kit includes relay, capacitor, and overload device, pre-wired. The kit will replace all 3 electrical components on capillary refrigeration systems. For newer systems with a run capacitor use proper kit. For smaller horsepower compressors useTJ90RCO810. The wire set up is as follows the red wire goes to the right side of compressor prong, the white wire to the left side prong, the black wire to the center prong, and the 2 other black wires go to the power and the ground connection Lastly you should also check ur THERMISTORS in the freezer and fridge section for continuity OHMS and for amount of OHMS current being put out. In most models around 13000 ( give or take 150 ohms) ohms is required. Read more: http://removeandreplace.com/2013/10/31/fix-refrigerator-freezer-wont-cool-freeze/#ixzz3WDEo5NDJ REMEMBER GOD IS THE REASON FOR GOOD ADVICE" Refrigerator Is Not Cooling What To Check And How To Fix

G'day DKNEWKIRK, I ran thru the ENTIRE SERVICE MANUAL... and found nothing that directly shows the door handle. Searching on the internet I could not help but find AMAZON as a main supplier of DOMETIC PARTS... Generally it looked like two screws secure the handle but I could find no DIRECT reference to your 7030. Dometic tech support ... call 219-463-4858 dometic 7030 door handle WOW com Image Results

With question like that YOU need repair.

The AC heater element is most likely open. Replace it and it will restore AC operation.

The solenoid gas inlet valve may be sticking or defective.

applienceparts.com

Check the gas regulator and the lines for particles of dirt. You have modified the refrigerator it is going to take some work to find what is wrong. Don't modify the orifice from what it calls for. APPLIANCE 911

34F

The procedure that you are probably thinking of entailed turning the refrigerator upside down for 24 hours, then righting it and turning it on. Though doing this will not hurt the unit try checking these things first,

• Door closing properly? Check the door gasket.
• Overpacked refrigerator? The unit will have to work harder if the refrigerator is stuffed and results in higher cabinet temperatures. Arrange the food in the unit to allow for free air circulation.
• Is the burner dirty, damaged or not properly located under the ue tube?
• Is the burner jet clogged? is the flame " clean?"
• Is the ue baf e inserted properly in the ue tube?
• Is the LP gas pressure low at burner?
• Is there proper air clearance behind and around the unit?
• Check the tubing behind the unit, is it damaged ? leaking?

Anon, Check the attached links,instruction and guides to diagnose fridge, Good luck "I hope this helped you out, if so let me know by pressing the helpful button. Check out some of my other posts if you need more tips and info." RV Refrigerator Repair 101 How To Diagnose Problems With RV Refrigerators... The RV Forum Community RV motorhome and bus conversion mechanic resource

go google and type in --authorized repair agents for dometic fridge /freezer equipment--- look for one close to where you are contact the "contact us " area on the manufacturers web site

your inverter may be over heating