20 Most Recent Frigidaire FullFGX831C Size Stack Gas Laundry Center Questions & Answers

Take a look and see if the drum near the door moves up vertically. It shouldn't move more than 3/16ths of an inch. If it does, replace the upper felt seal/plastic slide. The upper seal that supports the front of the drum on the front of the dryer is worn out to the point that clothes can get stuck in the gap between the drum and the front of the machine. This leaves brown wedge marks on clothes. While it's apart, replace the lower felt seal as well.

No spin, try these: Using a multi meter check for continuity the door switch, which when bad may not allow agitation or spin. The lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically. Check the clutch, brake assembly and transmission, one way to check for slipping is to get under the machine after a spin cycle ( this is if u get a lil spin but not much leaving clothes still wet) mix in a spray bottle a lil water and some dish detergent, then spray it on the clutch assembly ( the metal round pc. Connected to the tranny) if it sizzles and steams up then u know its bad and slipping. Another way to check clutch if u get no spin at all? Is to take it out and use ur hand to try and turn the inner spring assembly pushing it around the inside? If its very easy, it BAD should be hard to push by hand. Next check the motor coupler which engages the tub and tranny to the motor. ( if its bad u usually get no wash or spin or very little of either) Next check for a loose, worn or broken belt if belt driven. On some front load models u may need to check the STATOR assembly. The stator is essentially one half of a motor, it interacts with the tub by creating a strong electro-magnet. If the stator burns out the washer won't spin or agitate. Check the stator for continuity. This part is often misdiagnosed.

Door switch, belt off ? I would those two first.

Hello kim quinn - Usually this type of information is not release to someone who is not a technician (or to a consumer) and it is very rare to find enough information to do it yourself. In most cases this information can be found on the internet; however it is not provided directly from the manufacturer. Typically this is something that you want a certified professional to install for you due to safety and liability reasons. They also usually warranty their labor just in case something else may turn out to be the root cause of your initial problem and it does work out better to your advantage. Consider contacting your manufacturer for more details on who in your area can properly repair/install this part. (part usually have a 30 day warranty with tech). I would suggest contacting your manufacturer to provide you a listing of authorized technicians in your area whom may guide you through this process.

Hello - Generally speaking, Frigidaire laundry centers do not have fuse. The unit has a thermal limiter usually located in the dryer.

Hi

The spin operation is performed while the lid is closed, its a normal process. If the timer was bad then the cycle would not get completed. However, in wash cycle the lid switch is getting activated which should not be the case. You'll need to clean the contacts for the lid switch, the switch is getting shorted and is also working in wash cycle. In case the cleaning doesn't help then you'll need to replace the lid switch. Lid switch doesn't come separate, it comes as Lid Lock assembly. Please check part#50 in the below diagram---

You can buy it from this link---
Lid Lock Assembly for FGX831C
Hope this helps... Please post back if you need further assistance.
Daniel

There are a few issues that could cause the overfilling...failed water inlet valve, failed water level pressure switch, hole in pressure system air hose or air hose disconnection to name a few. Need to have professional evaluate, or it could happen again. Call home insurance if there are water damages to file a claim, and they can handle it from there usually.

Hi,

The first thing youhave to check is whether Your exit pipe behind the machine could be level into the drain, that is at floor level. The machine has a water level where the pipe must bend over (about 3 feet from ground level); it then passes into the drain in your wall, also raised. Your water exit pump pumps the waste water of the machine OVER this height.CHECK WHETHER ITS 3 FEET HIGH

This must be the only solution for the issue, since the water gets filled initially but you also check with the following thing

There could be a leak causing the netire water to leak from the machine during cycle...

Important to know where the leak is from; you have to run your machine with the back open (next time you wash) & carefully look where the leak is, careful with the electricity & turning, extreme caution. Could be some grip clip is loose. It could be from your exit drain, in that case:

Check your exit hose spigot, it may be clogged. There should be air for passage in the standpipe behind. Your hose should not fit airtight into the standpipe and neither too deep into it. Snaking out your standpipe would be good too.
Leave me comment, if you need further assistance
RNJ VINODKUMAR

The resistance of any mechanical switch is, practically speaking, 0.0 ohms.

If you are checking continuity across the two terminals of the lid switch, just use the continuity setting on the multimeter. If you get the audible signal with the switch closed the switch is good.

But, the lid switch has nothing to do with the drain function. The lid switch just keeps the tub from spinning with the lid up -- (given the picture at the top of your post is the machine in question).

If the mcahine won't pump but otherwise operates normally, first, I would suspect the pump could be malfunctioning.

Charlie

Okay, here's the best I can do from this distance.

The combo unit is on a 30-amp, 220-volt circuit. One cord supplies both washer and dryer.

The breaker does not trip until the washer motor starts running simultaneous with the dryer drying.

My guess is that (if the combo unit is connected correclty to the one supply cord) the dryer motor runs off the 110 volt supplied by the red/white wires & the washer motor runs off the other 110 volt leg, black/white (could be vice-versa, but that's irrelevant).

The dryer heating element runs off the 220 volt supplied by the red/black wires.

There are two most likely causes (but not the only possibilities):

- The breaker is bad -- could just be oxidation on the breaker contacts in the bteaker box -- I havae seen this conditon -- small amounts of oxidation can cause the breaker to overheat and trip -- of course, the more current the load draws the hotter the breaker gets.

- One of the motors (washer or dryer) is beginnig to fail (windings beginning to short) and drawing more than rated current which is overloading the breaker.

Checking thes two theories requires some not-so-standard equipment, and some more-than-handyman expertise. And if neither of these theories pans out, the troubleshooting gets more complicated.

So, to address your original question, "Can I fix it myself, or should I hire someone?, I would say you should hire someone. This wirite-up may give them a head start.

Let me know if you have any questions.

Charlie

P.S.
A third possibility (only possible if this tripping condition ahs existed from the beginnig of the w/d installation) is that the power cord is connected to the unit such that both motors are powered by the same 110 volt leg. Not being there to assess this, I can't say how likely this is, but it's a long shot for sure.