20 Most Recent Frigidaire CWS3600AS Top Load Washer Questions & Answers

I believe same as Kenmore you have to remove the top panel, first remove the 2 plastic pc.s from the side panel, then u will see on each side a screw that needs to be removed, then lift panel up and out of way, u will see 2 gold clips near the center that need to be preyed or popped out, then the whole cabinet will come forward and out. look under it and u should see the door switch and a couple screws holding it to lid panel remove them as well, then unscrew the ground screw to the harness usually a green wire connected to the frame.

The first thing that i would check is the belt. It tales more energy to spin than agitate

CHECK AND SEE IF THERE ARE SCREENS AT THE WATER VALVE IT MAY BE CLOGGED THERE

WAHSING MACHINE IS NOT DRAINING WATER

Hello Ruth Walker - From what you are describing it sounds like the tub seal is leaking. Typically, if so, the tub bearing is more than likely also bad or faulty. Repairing the seal and/or bearing may be a costly repair. I would strongly recommend contacting a local professional to narrow down the precise issue before investing in parts that may or may not be the root cause. You can often locate a qualified tech through the manufacturer website.

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
(this pre-typed covers both hot and cold!)

If you have checked that the hot and cold water taps are turned on fully and the hoses are not kinked or squashed at the back, it is worth while checking both the hot and cold water inlet filters. Turn the taps off and remove both hoses at the washer end. Inside each inlet port there is normally a little filter which should just slide out. Clean if necessary and replace each one and the hoses. If after turning the taps back on there is no improvement, the problem is symptomatic of a malfunctioning hot or cold water control valve. Sorry but it needs a service call and a check that it isn't the control PCB ;-0(

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Thanks and good luck,
John C

Usually when this occurs the lid switch has failed, even though it may seem ok
The lid switch is a safety device for the spin cycle. When it breaks the washer will
still agitate and not spin out. Hope this helps.

IT seems as though you might have a Motor problem or a damage belt.

Yes without it your washer will not go into spin cycle

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France

I mostly answer front load problems but ' out of balance' is a common problem with both!
So- I don't know your particular machine but the initial cure is the same.
It is necessary to ensure absolutely that the machine, even when empty, has all 4 feet very firmly on the floor, and I mean firmly ;-0)

Doesn't matter whether it is empty or not but switch it off then-
very firmly push one front corner diagonally into the centre of the machine (sorry about my UK spelling!) and see if the machine moves or rocks AT ALL, even the slightest. If it does you will need the open-ended spanner which came with the (new) machine........which of course went missing a long time ago?!! An adjustable spanner will suffice.
Adjust the foot under that corner downwards until it is very firmly- almost pushing- against the floor but not so far that the corner lifts up!
If this corner did not rock do the same to the other.
Once you cannot rock the machine the slightest little bit, screw the locking nuts up tight to the underside of the machine so that they will not move. Ideally the rear feet should also be locked.

If this has not cured the problem it is possible that the internal drum suspension is malfunctioning but I've not had any feedback of this nature.

Good luck,

John C