Frigidaire FEX831CS Top Load Stacked Washer/Dryer - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Hi Michelle Dentremont - I understand you are seeking Frigidaire Laundry Center FEX831CS0 manual. You can download the manual to your unit here. Let me know if you need further assistance.

if you go to this site with the model# there is a repair help section, and a 877# help line. www.appliancepartspros.com.

Chances are that if water is coming out of the bottom very rapidly a clamp or hose has come loose off of the tub or pump. Also, since that is a stackable unit it should be very easy to check. Tilt the machine back and there should be 2 screws or fasteners holding the front panel in place. If it is not a hose the only other thing would be a crack in your outer tub. (It would have to be one heck of a crack too).

The spin cycle is not going to change it is how strong the agitation is
And how hard it soins

No agitation? first use a meter and check ur water pressure switch? that is what sends the machine the message to start wash cycle? You can test it with a meter and with a manual test? ( first locate it in the panel, it has a plastic clear tube hose going into it, remove that tube from its connection, now put another small tube or hose into the slot where it was and have the machine set to wash cycle with water in it. Blow into the other end of the tube. If the machine starts to wash. the pressure switch is more than likely good ( No wash- then THE DIAPHRAM IS BAD AND SWITCH HAS TO BE REPLACED) another test u can do is Remove the hose and submerge in water. Seal one end and blow air into the other end and look for bubbles. Check for an obstruction in the hose as well. Or take the original hose tube and plug one end and blow into it AT the other end, it should be hard and have pressure, if it is easy to blow and u dont feel any pressure and it feels like the air is going out ? Sometimes they get busted open or a pin hole and release air causing the water switch diaphragm to not open. Another test u can make with a multi meter is by testing the prongs individually. # 15, 16,17 (don't worry to much bout the numbers) place ur meter prongs on both out side prongs or connectors of the switch. ( where the wire plugs into) take note of weather it shows OHMS or infinity? Now place the meter on the left outside and the middle prong, take note agin what it shows. Now place meter prong on the right outside and the middle prong. Agin take note what reading u get. ( you should actually get a reading of infinity in 1 and a reading of continuity or ohms in the other 2? Now the tricky part. Agin place a small tube or hose into the switch and blow into it, do the same test agin on all prongs. Now keep the pressure on switch when u blow into it, in other words use ur tongue on end of tube to not allow air to escape. When u test it agin now one of the prongs that once read infinity should now show continuity or ohms, and 1 of the other prongs that read ohms should now read infinity or open. . If both check ok then next CHECK the motor coupler (a bad couplercan be checked by looking under the machine and taking note if there is a black residue on floor, look at coupler located between the motor and tranny, and see if it is broken up or missing any parts? Try to turn shaft by hand and notice if it does not engage tub? ) or belt if belt driven. Check for loose, broken or worn belt . Then check the door switch with a multi meter for continuity OHMS when door closed and infinity when door is opened , and if there is a little movement on wash cycle in 1 direction only then check the cam dogs in agitator.

ELECTRIC Dryer no heat or little heat: Check your venting and lint basket. Check blower for lint build up and blower wheel obstruction., test by trying to turn the wheel manually by hand (should be easy) May have to remove cabinet or front/back plate to get to it) Next check the heating element itself with a meter for continuity OHMS CLOSED CIRCUIT. If not its defective. Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. 220 because if u only get half or 110 volts you will be able to run the machine which uses only 110 to run motor but not the heater which uses a full 220, Check the thermal cut off, the cycling and the hi limit thermostats. For continuity or OHMS. If no ohms or resistance they need replacement. Lastly check your moister sensor. ( located inside the dryer door usually) Especially if machine seems to shut down early and clothes are still wet. Test with a meter at room temperature and it should show continuity.

check the cam dogs in agitator

the brake engages the clutch and no it does not stop right away.

either a bad clutch or clogged hose or water pump

Washer fills with water and overflows: The water pressure level switch is a pressure activated switch that is used to determine the correct water level in the tub. This part is normally located behind the control panel and will have a hose or air dome tube that connects it to the tub. On washers that use an electronic control, this switch may be located at the sump area below the tub. As the water fills in the tub it will compress the air in the tube and push against a diaphragm inside the switch. The switch will control the water inlet valve and turn the valve off at the correct water level. If the tube has a leak, not enough pressure may be created to activate the switch and the washer may overfill. If the switch is defective it may also cause the machine to overfill. To determine if the switch is bad, you should first eliminate the air dome hose as a problem. Look for signs of cracks or worn areas on the hose. Remove the hose and submerge in water. Seal one end and blow air into the other end and look for bubbles. Check for an obstruction in the hose as well. If the air dome hose appears to be ok, then the water level switch may be defective. You can test it with a meter and with a manual test? ( first locate it in the panel, it has a plastic clear tube hose going into it, remove that tube from its connection, now put another small tube or hose into the slot where it was and have the machine set to wash cycle with water in it. Blow into the other end of the tube. If the machine starts to wash. the pressure switch is more than likely good ( No wash- then THE DIAPHRAGM IS BAD AND SWITCH HAS TO BE REPLACED). The other item to check would be your water inlet valve. Check it for continuity with a multi meter it should show Ohms or a closed circuit. To test it when water is overflowing unplug the unit and see if it still overflows or continues to fill. If it stops when unplugged. Then it is not a water inlet problem but an electrical signal problem going to ur water inlet valve. Possibly from the panel or board.

check ur water pump hoses and tub drain hose inside

either water temperature switch or the water inlet valve

More than likely you need to replace the water fill valve

Control board issue, call a repair tech....

it has a blockage or the water valve needs to be change or it has trapped air,,,,,,,,,this is how to solve the problem,,,,,,u need to locate the valve at the top of the machine (it has a small transparent hose or black)blow a slight amount of air into the hose or to the tip of the hose twice or thrice and try the machine working condition.......best of luck.

Hello Jennifer Christie, thank you for your post!

I see that you have replaced the belt and bearing drum in your Frigidaire dryer but the unit does not start. It sounds like you could be experiencing an issue within the motor or timer. I would recommend having a professional come out to properly diagnose and repair your appliance, to avoid any further unnecessary part purchases. I hope this is helpful. -Matt

Check the Drain Tube, Check the Screen. When it gets to the FIRST Spin Cycle, Check the Water Level inside the Drum and see if it is Completely Draining... There is a Water Level Switch that should not be allowing it to Overflow so you may have an issue there... But first check for a Blockage

Hello friend, we appreciate your post!

It appears you have a laundry center FEX831CS0 and that your dryer is not working. Can you provide me more specific details? Is your dryer not heating, not turning on, or not completing a cycle? For instance did you notice any strange functions or odd noises prior to this issue? With this information I can better address the issue at hand. Thank you - Matt

Good Afternoon Friend, I understand the washer will not spin, on your Frigidaire laundry center, model# FEX831CS0. Please check and make sure the lid is closed completely. If the lid is closed, I suggest resetting your appliance, by either unplugging it or shutting the power off at your home's circuit breaker, for 3-5 minutes. Restore power and try any cycle. I ask that you please follow up with a comment on the post, at your convenience, to advise if further troubleshooting is needed or if your appliances status has changed successfully. Hope this is helpful. -Best Regards- WP

Good Afternoon Friend, I understand that the washer on your Frigidaire laundry center, model# FEX831CS, is leaking at the back of your appliance. I also see that the dryer is in the way of accessing the line that is leaking. I suggest contacting your local authorized technician for further assistance. They have been trained on your appliance and should be able to change the line with ease. Hope this is helpful. -Best Regards- WP