Frigidaire GLTF2940ES Front Load Washer - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

During normal operation, the display may show:
“SAn” - deep clean (Sanitary Cycle)
“cd” - cool down (Sanitary cycle)
“do” or “dr” - door problem.
“Err” - an error has been detected.
“LOC” - control lock is activated.
“PAU” - cycle has been interrupted.
To clear latest stored error code:
• Turn the Program Knob to the start position, Spin
Only.
• Press Start/Pause to start the cycle and save it.
• Press Cancel to stop the cycle and turn off the
LEDs.
• Press Cancel again to turn on the LEDs.
• Within 5 seconds, press and hold the Option and
Start/Pause buttons until LEDs start sequentially
chasing, then release buttons.
Turn the program knob clockwise 7 clicks from the
Start Position. The control will signal the last error
code.
• Press and hold the Options and Start/Pause
buttons for 3 seconds. The code will be cleared.
• Exit Diagnostic Mode to return the washer to normal
operation.
a) Unplug the power cord, wait 5-8 seconds, then
reconnect the power cord OR
b) Turn the program knob clockwise 2 or 3 clicks
after the Start Position. Press Options and
Start/Pause buttons together for a few seconds
until wash cycle LEDs appear.
Simple right? LOL and then you do the hokey pokey...
OK where where we?
Ah yes we needed to dump the old code so we can do a fresh
diagnostic Test.
Diagnostic Test:
The diagnostic test is used to check individual component
function only.
TO START THE TEST:
• Turn the Program Knob to the start position,
Spin Only.
• Press Start/Pause to start the cycle and save it.
• Press Cancel to stop the cycle and turn off the LEDs.
• Press Cancel again to turn on the LEDs.
• Within 5 seconds, press and hold the Options and
Start/Pause buttons until LEDs start sequentially
chasing, then release buttons.
1. All the LEDs will sequentially light. Pressing a
button below a light cluster will light all the LEDs in
that cluster at one time to confirm functionality.
2. Turn the program knob (1) click clockwise from the
start position. The hot water solenoid will activate
and hot water should enter through the detergent
compartment.
3. Turn the program knob (2) clicks from the start
position. The bleach water solenoid will activate and
cold water should enter through the bleach
compartment.
4. Turn the program knob (3) clicks from the start
position. The bleach and the wash water solenoids
will activate and cold water should enter through the
softener compartment.
5. Turn the program knob (4) clicks from the start
position. The door lock solenoid will deactivate and
the loading door can be opened.When the door is
opened, the drum light should turn on.
6. Turn the program knob (5) clicks from the start
position. The washer will fill and tumble. Once
tumbling has started, the Boost Heater (if so
equipped) will turn on.
7. Turn the program knob (6) clicks from the start
position. The drain pump & door lock solenoid will
activate and the washer will operate in high spin.
SAFETYWARNING: If power is removed during this
test, the door can be opened. To prevent injury, DO
NOT put your hands inside when the tub is rotating. Oopz!
8. Turn the program knob (7) clicks from the start
position. The control will signal the last error code.
Exiting Diagnostic Mode
There are two options for exiting theDiagnosticTestmode
and returning the washer to normal operation:
a) Unplug the power cord, wait 5-8 seconds, then
reconnect the power cord OR
b) Turn the program knob clockwise 2 or 3 clicks after
the start position. Press Options and Start/Pause
buttons together for a few seconds until wash cycle
LEDs appear.
If a situation arises where you cannot exit the
Diagnostic mode as described above and the
bank of 5 LED’s on the right end remain ON
regardless of Program Knob position, a combination
of pushed buttons may have caused the
control to enter a special factory test mode.
Disconnect power to reset the control to return
washer to normal operation if this occurs. Are we clear so far? It gets better: Here are your fault codes:
E11 Fill time to long check inlet screens, kinked

hoses unpaid water bill Etc
E13 Water leak in tub or air leak in air bell or

sediment in hos as well. Blow that ****** out.
E21 Water not pumping out fast enough. trash i pump,

frozen drain call roto rooter, skip that LOL
E23 Drain pump relay on control board failed, check

for broken wire or buy a new board hay you could use a

$500 spare right?
E24 same as E23
E31 Pressure sensor not communicating with control

board find tube blow out sand sediment etc
E35 Again sediment or suds in tube.these type errors

can be caused by too much soap wrong soap soap placed

in wrong dispenser.
The rest are on page 63
If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

you will need to unplug the machine and take off the back panel and look for a small 5mm pipe leading upwards, take it off and blow gently into it you should hear a click and another one when you let the air out again if so then the small pipe where you took it from is blocked preventing the switch to work properly , unblock the pipe with a pipe cleaner or metal rod its normally full of soap goo return the pipe and close the back up and run the machine again eric

if you send me the diagram I can possibly give you the answer, as normally there is the driver pcb to consider or I will find you the best way to do it, please ask the web site for my email address as I don't know if Im allowed to publish it on this answer eric

frigidaire has problems with their computer boards and it sounds like this is your problem,i've seen them shut down and then after a while start beeping on it's own just like your machine is doing and it was the board part 137006000

Call Frigidaire and keep asking for someone higher up until you get results.

Motor has some shorted windings. Timer switches to higher current for faster rotation and the thermal overload protection shuts the process off as the current is too high because of the shorted windings.

You bought them in 2009 and it's 2017. That's 8 years later.

as long there isnt an overload or water level sensor issue you can replace the door seal also check door catch /safety switch

its problably not able to balenbace the load of rugs, if the machine cant balance itwont go to high speed spin. in actuallity your probalby better off bringing the rugs to the laundry mats, especially if the are rubber backed, the rubber backing will come off clogging your pump assy, then your looking at replacing hte pump for a few hundred dollars, for a clean set of $30 bath rugs.

Hey John, thanks for your inquiry! Based off what you have described your Frigidaire washer is stopping early and not spinning clothes properly. It sounds like this could be an issue within the control panel or a miscommunication within the electronics. I would suggest performing a reset on the washer to help clear out any miscommunication and you can do that by disconnecting the power cord for at least ten minutes. You may need to have a technician out to review your washer if the reset does not help clear out the error. I hope this information helps towards the repair of your washer. -Matt

No! Remove the screw holding the vane and slide it towards you. It will then come out.

thank you, that was the problem, we had the hoses swapped. i appreciate this site! mike and pam

No spin, or lite spin try these: Using a multi meter check for continuity the door switch, which when bad may not allow agitation or spin. The lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically. Check the clutch, brake assembly and transmission, one way to check for slipping is to get under the machine after a spin cycle ( this is if u get a lil spin but not much leaving clothes still wet) mix in a spray bottle a lil water and some dish detergent, then spray it on the clutch assembly ( the metal round pc. Connected to the tranny) if it sizzles and steams up then u know its bad and slipping. Another way to check clutch if u get no spin at all? Is to take it out and use ur hand to try and turn the inner spring assembly pushing it around the inside? If its very easy, it BAD should be hard to push by hand. Or try the hand test: If no hammering sound has ever been heard out of this machine, one of the unofficial tests we professional appliantologists will do in the field is called the Hand Test. WARNING:This test is not sanctioned by Whirlpool Corporation; it involves bypassing safety equipment and then putting your hand on and near rotating machinery which could result in injury, dismemberment, disfigurement, disembowelment, mangling, hideous screaming, and a bloody death. Proceed at your own risk! Have a nice day. - put the timer on a spin cycle and open the lid- grab the inner basket with maybe 30% to 40% of your hand strength with your left hand - turn on the machine and bypass the lid switch by depressing the lid switch with a key until the machine begins to spin - if the clutch is engaging properly, the basket should immediately begin to spin and slip through your hand - if it takes very little force to stop the tub from spinning, the clutch needs to be replaced. Next check the motor coupler which engages the tub and tranny to the motor. ( if its bad u usually get no wash or spin or very little of either) Next check for a loose, worn or broken belt if belt driven. And on some models there is no clutch but rather what is called a splutch. And a MODE shifter. These can go bad and effect the spin cycle. On some front load models u may need to check the STATOR assembly. The stator is essentially one half of a motor, it interacts with the tub by creating a strong electro-magnet. If the stator burns out the washer won't spin or agitate. Check the stator for continuity. This part is often misdiagnosed. Sometimes a no spin machine can be due to a plugged waterpump hose or obstructed water pump propeller. Check these by eye and hand. Your next step is toremove the cabinetand jumper the lid switch harness (tan to gray). Put the unit in spin and watch the shiny metal clutch disc that is on top of the transmission where the shaft comes out. If the machine starts and runs in spin, check to see if the disc is spinning. If it is, then the problem isnot in the gearcase- look for trouble in theclutch,basket driveor the tub drive block If, on the other hand, the disc is NOT spinning, check for a problem withthe motor drive coupleror one of its retainers. This washer doesn't have a belt. Instead, the motor is directly coupled to the gearcase by a drive coupler; that's why it's called a direct drive washer. Read more:Diagnosing and Repairing Spin and Agitate Problems in a Whirlpool / Kenmore Direct Drive Washerhttp://fixitnow.com/wp/2010/07/07/diagnosing-and-repairing-spin-and-agitate-problems-in-a-whirlpool-kenmore-direct-drive-washer/#ixzz3XW7eZwiNBy the way my advice is free cuz God is good!

Best guess, yes!

As for unplugging it, I had an issue with mine not spinning on the Perm Press cycle. I tried unplugging it for an hour and plugging it in again to no avail. Just gave up on the Perm Press cycle. A few months later I unplugged it for a week while I was on vacation and low and behold, it started to spin on the Perm Press cycle! I'm not sure how long it would have needed to be unplugged, but you may want to try for a couple of days. But, in the mean time....Try running the diagnosis and looking for an error code. To recall an error code, • Wake the machine by pressing any button • Wait 5 seconds • Press and hold the Start and Pause Cancel buttons simultaneously • All LEDs will go blank and after a few seconds the control will signal the stored code using audible beeps and blinking LEDs. The control will repeatedly signal the code, as long as the Start and Pause Cancel buttons are pressed. A two-second pause between repeats affords you the ability to make accurate counts to identify the correct error codes. For complete instructions and to run a more thorough diagnosis, download the instructions here:http://manuals.frigidaire.com/prodinfo_pdf/webster/134542000.pdf

Hello John, thanks for your inquiry!

From my understanding your Frigidaire front load washer is displaying an error code of "E20" and you would like to know how to fix it. An "E20" code stands for water is not pumping out fast enough this could be a problem with your drain hose, pump, or control panel. I would suggest checking the drain line to make sure it is not restricted. If the line looks clear it could be a problem with your drain pump or control panel. I would recommend seeking assistance from a professional technician for proper repairs. I hope this information is helpful. -Matt

There is a front access panel below your door that is held in place by 2 screws at the very bottom edge near the floor. Remove the screws and access panel. The drain pump on that model I think is at right front corner. To remove or clean it---unplug washer---unplug 2 wires to pump---remove/loosen 2 big hose clamps and pull rubber hoses off---and then remove 2 mounting screws holding pump to washer floor. Reverse procedure to reinstall.

There is a front access panel below your door that is held in place by 2 screws at the very bottom edge near the floor. Remove the screws and access panel. The drain pump on that model I think is at right front corner. To remove or clean it---unplug washer---unplug 2 wires to pump---remove/loosen 2 big hose clamps and pull rubber hoses off---and then remove 2 mounting screws holding pump to washer floor. Reverse procedure to reinstall.

BAD CLUTCH OR LOOSE BELT

you mean will not wash agitate? No agitation? first use a meter and check ur water pressure switch? that is what sends the machine the message to start wash cycle? You can test it with a meter and with a manual test? ( first locate it in the panel, it has a plastic clear tube hose going into it, remove that tube from its connection, now put another small tube or hose into the slot where it was and have the machine set to wash cycle with water in it. Blow into the other end of the tube. If the machine starts to wash. the pressure switch is more than likely good ( No wash- then THE DIAPHRAM IS BAD AND SWITCH HAS TO BE REPLACED) another test u can do is Remove the hose and submerge in water. Seal one end and blow air into the other end and look for bubbles. Check for an obstruction in the hose as well. Or take the original hose tube and plug one end and blow into it AT the other end, it should be hard and have pressure, if it is easy to blow and u dont feel any pressure and it feels like the air is going out ? Sometimes they get busted open or a pin hole and release air causing the water switch diaphragm to not open. Another test u can make with a multi meter is by testing the prongs individually. # 15, 16,17 (don't worry to much bout the numbers) place ur meter prongs on both out side prongs or connectors of the switch. ( where the wire plugs into) take note of weather it shows OHMS or infinity? Now place the meter on the left outside and the middle prong, take note agin what it shows. Now place meter prong on the right outside and the middle prong. Agin take note what reading u get. ( you should actually get a reading of infinity in 1 and a reading of continuity or ohms in the other 2? Now the tricky part. Agin place a small tube or hose into the switch and blow into it, do the same test agin on all prongs. Now keep the pressure on switch when u blow into it, in other words use ur tongue on end of tube to not allow air to escape. When u test it agin now one of the prongs that once read infinity should now show continuity or ohms, and 1 of the other prongs that read ohms should now read infinity or open. . If both check ok then next CHECK the motor coupler (a bad couplercan be checked by looking under the machine and taking note if there is a black residue on floor, look at coupler located between the motor and tranny, and see if it is broken up or missing any parts? Try to turn shaft by hand and notice if it does not engage tub? ) or belt if belt driven. Check for loose, broken or worn belt . Then check the door switch with a multi meter for continuity OHMS when door closed and infinity when door is opened , and if there is a little movement on wash cycle in 1 direction only then check the cam dogs in agitator.