You will have to get rid of the mice first . Then take unit out and remove any nests that may be in there and clean it then fire it up it may smell but will kill off any smells .
Good Morning Debbie, I regret to hear that you are having difficulties with your oven not baking or broiling.
I see that your question is listed under a gas range. If so, here are some simple troubleshooting steps that may help you resolve this issue:
First, please disconnect power to your appliance!
Next, locate the gas pressure regulator (typically located on the back lower left-hand side of your range) and verify that the valve is in the "ON" position. If the valve is OFF, it causes to shut off gas to your oven.
Reconnect power to your range.
Set time and select bake or broil option.
Should this prove to be unsuccessful I suggest reaching out to an Authorized Service Technician.
Thank you again for allowing Frigidaire to assist you.
It sounds like you may have had a couple of problems. The gas smell concerns me though. If an igniter is weak, you shouldn't get any gas flow in the oven. This is a designed safety feature that prevents free flowing gas from filling up the oven cavity without ignition. I would recommend checking your igniter for the proper current and/or replace. The link I provided, lists the steps required. If you have any questions, please let me know. I hope this helps you.
Most likely, your lower heating element has failed and needs to be replaced.
This is a simple step-by-step procedure...
1. Turn off the power to the oven at the breaker panel. Or slide the oven ahead and reach behind to unplug the power cord.
2. Take out the two screws holding the element bracket in place. These will be on the back wall of the oven. They are usually hex head or phillips screws.
3. Carefully pull the element toward you a little bit until you see the two wires behind it. Unscrew the wire leads and remove the bad heating element.
4. Handle the new element carefully while you attach the wire leads to it with the old screws. Don't stretch the wires any more than you have to.
5. Line up the new element while tucking the wires back in place. Be sure not to pinch the wires between the bracket and the back wall.
6. Fasten the bracket screws, making sure they're tight.
7. Restore power to the appliance and start your oven to check if the new element heats up.
A few things to remember...
You are working with high voltage! Be sure the power is off or the oven is unplugged!
If you find one of the wires has come off the old element, simply reconnect and check your oven. Your old element may work again and you will not need to purchase a new one.
In removing any of the screws mentioned above, note that they may be difficult to lossen due to years of exposure to heat. Don't give up, they will eventually loosen.
Your new element may have some oil or other gunk on it due to the manufacturing process. Once it begins to heat, it may start to smoke. Don't panic! Any residue will eventually burn away and the smoke will cease from then on.
As copied from the manual.
Setting a silent control panel
When choosing a function, a beep will be heard each time a pad is pressed. If desired, the control can be programmed for silent operation. Press and hold (start/time) . After 7 seconds, the control will beep once. This will block the controls from sounding when a pad is pressed. To return the sound, press and hold (start/time) again for 7 seconds until the control beeps once
NOTE!
The OVEN indicator light on the electronic display will turn ON and OFF when using the Bake feature and during preheat. This is normal and indicates that the oven is cycling to maintain the selected baking temperature. When the preheat indicator light turns OFF, your oven is ready.
Hi im an appliance tech and i had the same problem its not the EOC other words control board its actually the speed bake swith its stuck in the on position that why you get a stock keypad error code either f1 or f11 replace that switch or disconnect it and im positive that this will solve it .
Send it back and get the correct one. It can't be the same part number if the connections are different. Your old one may have features that his new one doesn't. The one less wire may just be a shared return, but the stove might be needing individual returns. If it is an updated replacement (the listing sometimes says 'compatible with' or 'replaced by', or 'alternative part'), it should come with a wiring schematic.
Please always include full 'make MODEL (what it is)'.
Fixya Expert 'Jorgie the Appliance Guy' will have the answer if it is a shared return but he will need the model number. Edit your post and add it.
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No orifice for the oven jet? All work on gas appliances needs to be done by a certified gas technician. Somewhere, normally just behind the knob, there is an adjusting screw (certainly for hobs). The flame must be high enough that it can't blow out. The standard test is the slam the oven door, with your kitchen windows closed and then again with them open. Help in the link, but also the pressure from the tank _at_ the range should be checked.
https://www.google.com/search?q=oven+flame+adjustment
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This is so confusing
You say
"The oven and broiler elements are not working"
Then you say
"Everything works except the burners'.
so nothing works? No oven/broiler elements and no burners? It make me wonder what the 'everything' is that works? The clock? The oven light?
Sounds like the main house breaker has flipped. On my older GE stove from the 1980s there are glass screw in fuses hidden below the controls and above the hobs. You undo the switch bezel for the oven light and the switch bezel for the rotisserie and pull the panel forward exposing 8 fuses. If all yours blew, it would be very strange!
Click comment under my answer and also under Vince's and we will get you Fix-Ya.
