what this means is an indication of disconnection of wire from the element position .
the element it is silver in colour it is connected to the main wire that supply power over to the range
what you need to do to fix up this
problem is to unscrew (open)the range with the bass tools then trace the wire
down to the element connected to the screen to see if the loose wire that have loose it
position fix back to the element connected to the screen ,but if there is
no wire that have loose it position from the connection then it mean that the element is weak you will have to replace it with another better one which you can get from the store please make sure that you are getting same size of the old/ weak one.
please make sure that all power supply on the range are disconnected from it before working on it .
This is often an oven sensor. You need to ohm it out. Should be about 11k. This is the steel rod at back top of oven cavity. It's accessable from the rear. UNPLUG UNIT BEFORE REMOVING PANELS.
As copied from the manual.
Setting a silent control panel
When choosing a function, a beep will be heard each time a pad is pressed. If desired, the control can be programmed for silent operation. Press and hold (start/time) . After 7 seconds, the control will beep once. This will block the controls from sounding when a pad is pressed. To return the sound, press and hold (start/time) again for 7 seconds until the control beeps once
NOTE!
The OVEN indicator light on the electronic display will turn ON and OFF when using the Bake feature and during preheat. This is normal and indicates that the oven is cycling to maintain the selected baking temperature. When the preheat indicator light turns OFF, your oven is ready.
Hi im an appliance tech and i had the same problem its not the EOC other words control board its actually the speed bake swith its stuck in the on position that why you get a stock keypad error code either f1 or f11 replace that switch or disconnect it and im positive that this will solve it .
Send it back and get the correct one. It can't be the same part number if the connections are different. Your old one may have features that his new one doesn't. The one less wire may just be a shared return, but the stove might be needing individual returns. If it is an updated replacement (the listing sometimes says 'compatible with' or 'replaced by', or 'alternative part'), it should come with a wiring schematic.
Please always include full 'make MODEL (what it is)'.
Fixya Expert 'Jorgie the Appliance Guy' will have the answer if it is a shared return but he will need the model number. Edit your post and add it.
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No orifice for the oven jet? All work on gas appliances needs to be done by a certified gas technician. Somewhere, normally just behind the knob, there is an adjusting screw (certainly for hobs). The flame must be high enough that it can't blow out. The standard test is the slam the oven door, with your kitchen windows closed and then again with them open. Help in the link, but also the pressure from the tank _at_ the range should be checked.
https://www.google.com/search?q=oven+flame+adjustment
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This is so confusing
You say
"The oven and broiler elements are not working"
Then you say
"Everything works except the burners'.
so nothing works? No oven/broiler elements and no burners? It make me wonder what the 'everything' is that works? The clock? The oven light?
Sounds like the main house breaker has flipped. On my older GE stove from the 1980s there are glass screw in fuses hidden below the controls and above the hobs. You undo the switch bezel for the oven light and the switch bezel for the rotisserie and pull the panel forward exposing 8 fuses. If all yours blew, it would be very strange!
Click comment under my answer and also under Vince's and we will get you Fix-Ya.
