20 Most Recent Maytag Amana 30 in. Electric Double Wall Oven with Temp-Assure Cooking System Questions & Answers

Service Manual If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

I use 2 sided tape to get a grip on the bulb. If it is really stuck and you end up breaking it, don't worry as it will be easier to remove the rest of the bulb with a pair of needle nose pliers.

Hi,
If your electric oven is taking too long to heat or just not heating up right,then check out this tip that will give more detail about your problem.

Oven Problems Electric Oven is Heating Slowly or Poorly

heatman101

Localwonder gave a more comprehensive answer, but I wanted to share my recent related experience too:
Same model: MGR5750BDW
Oven was not heating up, or would sometimes and not others. Broiler worked fine. The nice thing is that the broiler igniter and the oven igniter are the same part. So I swapped them until I could get a replacement part.
Before I did anything, I turned off the gas!
To take out the broiler igniter: there's one screw right near the front of the oven that holds the burner assembly in place. Remove that, gently pull the assembly off the gas nozzle off to the left. Then where the wires from the igniter go into the back wall, remove the screw that holds the little door, remove that little door, and then gently pull the wires through until the connector comes through the opening. I also found you can go behind the stove, remove the back panel (which is easy) and see the igniter's connector.
The oven one: remove the floor of the oven by lifting it at the back, and then lift it out towards the back of the oven. Then you can see the igniter at the back of the floor of the oven. remove the two mounting screws, and then gently pull the wires until the connector comes through the insulation.
The bad igniter looked like it had burned down to bare metal in a big patch...not sure if that's the actual problem, but in any event, I installed the good igniter in the bottom (gently pushing the reconnected connector through the insulation, and feeding as much of the wires down in there as well), and the bad igniter in the broiler position (since that was the easiest one to access and replace, it'll be easy enough to replace when I get the parts). Tested, and everything worked great. And I could watch the bad igniter light up, and never light, confirming that it was the igniter itself that was the problem.
The best part, for this stove anyway, -- the ONLY tool needed was a #2 phillips screwdriver. Really. All told, maybe an hour of work, nothing intense. And free -- so if they both worked, it would have spared me ordering a part that didn't need to be replaced!

the ignitor is prolly bad (not pulling enough amps)

f your 2008 Maytag double oven's lower door is locked, here are some steps you can try to unlock it: Press Cancel/Off Key: Start by pressing the Cancel/Off key. Wait for 20-30 seconds, then try to open the door. Sometimes this simple latch reset can do the trick. Power Cycle: Turn off the power at the circuit breaker or fuse box for one minute. After that, turn the power back on. Allow the oven to cool for approximately 30-90 minutes, and then move the latch arm to the left to unlock the door. Self-Clean Cycle Interruption: If the door locked during a self-clean cycle, select the "Self Clean" option, and then choose "Cancel". Wait a couple of minutes, and then try to start the cycle again. If the self-clean cycle was started by mistake, press the Cancel/Off key. The oven will need to cool to around 200°F (95°C) before the door can open. Remember to ensure that the oven is cool and the power is turned off before attempting any of these steps. Hopefully, one of these methods will help you unlock the oven door! Your manual might prove helpful. Oven is Locked - What to Do - Product Help ' Maytag

possible transformer or control board overheating

There are two types and they both work to a theme. Modern Oven hinges are inset into the door itself, so you just split the door apart, take the old ones out and the new ones in. The other type have the hinges inside the oven itself between the outside of the oven cavity and the outer panel. With those you pull out or remove the wall oven and look at the back and underneath for the screws. Remove the side panels, remove and replace the hinges. Door Mounted Hinge Side Mounted hinge

your Maytag range has only a single heating element located at the top of the oven, it is likely a "broil" element, which is used primarily for cooking food close to the top of the oven. The lower heating element, which is typically used for baking and roasting, may be hidden beneath the oven floor or located at the bottom of the oven. If your oven is not getting very hot, it is possible that the broil element is malfunctioning and needs to be replaced. However, if the oven is not heating evenly or is not getting hot enough to cook food properly, it may be a more complex issue related to the temperature sensor, the control board, or other components. To diagnose and repair the issue, it is recommended to have the range serviced by a qualified technician, who can properly identify the model and locate the faulty component. The model number of your range can typically be found on a label inside the oven door, on the back of the range, or on a storage drawer beneath the oven.

Try the touch pad from the working oven in the faulty one. It says it could be either. Unlikely the oven is going to work with the ribbon cable removed and that in itself will trigger the F1 code.https://ifixappliances.ca/maytag-oven-error-codes/Video herehttps://www.google.com/search?q=Maytag+Electric+Oven+MEW6530BAB-+F1+Code..

There is a 4 minute video so it can't be hard. https://www.google.com/search?q=maytag+gemini+oven+element+replacement ..

Most of these glass knobs are thick glass and strong. Trying using a pair of multigrips to turn it, just be gentle.

usually from inside under shelf

bad control board

Check the voltage to the oven. Also, check the contacts on the oven relay. (If the relay shows signs of having been overheated, the contacts are probably bad, but not every bad contact will cause visible overheat damage.) Inspect all of the connection terminals in the wiring from the inlet power to the controller relay to the heating elements. A poor connection will overheat the wire but prevent proper heating of the element. Heavily oxidized or loose terminals should either be cleaned up or replaced. Since you say both elements have the problem, I would start first with the input power connection. That includes turning off the breaker to the oven and checking the wall socket. If you have aluminum wiring to the wall socket, the connection may need to be redone. First verify that the socket is marked for aluminum wiring (Al or Al/Cu). Aluminum wire connection requires great care: the wire must be cleaned to expose shiny metal, then immediately coated with a special grease made for aluminum wiring before insertion into the socket terminals, and the terminals must be torqued to specification. Otherwise, you will eventually have a poor connection and possible fire hazard. If you don't see any grease on aluminum wire, that could be the problem. If you have copper wire, standard wiring procedures apply.