20 Most Recent Sub-Zero 661/F Side by Side Refrigerator Questions & Answers

that could be caused by a freon leak in the evaporator coil,sometimes you can reset the board but if it comes back you know there's a problem,a clogged condenser coil or the condenser fan is bad but basically it's telling you it's running to warm, if you cleaned the coil and the fan is blowing strong most likely you have a leak in the sealed system usually the evaporator coil has to be replaced.i know this is to late you probably already fixed this problem would just like to tell you how i clean out the coil up top,unplug the machine with the quick disconnect up top or flip the breaker,i use a stinger shop vac,it's a small shop vac,i clean the front of coil with the brush attachment and then clean all the walls and wherever else i can get with the brush,then i put a towel up to cover the top just like the front grill does,set the vac to blow and blow through the coil,the towel keeps most of the dust inside when you blow it,do that a few times on the right side,after every time you blow it lift up the towel and vac up anything that blew out,then go to the fan side and do the same thing,also blow out the whole top cabinet too,any dust that's in the back or under the wire harness where you can't get will blow out and you can vac it up,then remove the towel and hit it a few more times,you can stick a flash light or drop light on the right side of coil and look through the fan side,if it's clear you're done.this should be done at least once a year,it could be the difference of having no problems with overheating,you'll save your compressor,the fan motor will last longer,if you don't do it and you cook a compressor you're looking at around a 2000 dollar repair,take a half hour once a year and clean out your coil.i have some old ones out there 25 to 30 years old,i go once a year to clean out peoples coils,it will add years to your machine,good luck with your subby.one ore thing that happens is the drain can clog,junk can get into the drain or the drain troft,if you find water dripping in the fridge section you'll know the drain is blocked,just a heads up.

The solution posted previously is TOTALLY WRONG. A Sub Zero ref doesn't have a heating element in the fresh food section. Only in the Frozen food section. It has 2 totally separate systems for each section. 2 Compressors and 2 evaporators. They share a condenser. If you are having ice build up in the refrigerator then the problem you are having is a refrigerant leak in the fresh food evaporator. You need to have a certified tech come out and replace the evaporator in your refrigerator section of your Sub Zero. Not sure what you are asking about the thermostat.

Is ice on the back cover on the left side? if it is you have a leak in the evaporator... if its under 12 yrs old call an authorized sub zero service it will be covered

ICE MAKER not making ice Inspect Water fill tube, Inspect the ice maker mold to see if there are ice cubes present. If there are no cubes or very small cubes, then you should look for issues with the water fill system. Inspect the fill tube and the fill cup area at the back of the ice maker to make sure that they are not frozen. If there is an ice buildup in that area, confirm no foreign objects have disrupted the flow of water into the fill cup. If nothing obvious has caused the ice buildup then suspect the inlet valve, tubing or low water pressure. Inspect the outlet tubing from the fill valve to the ice maker fill tube for any signs of restrictions and replace if necessary. WATER INLET VALVE: Check the water inlet valve for any restrictions. You will need to shut off the valve from the household water supply before you disconnect the inlet tubing. Some water inlet valves may have a screen to filter debris before it can enter the valve. If the screen is plugged, water flow will be restricted and the result will be small or layered ice cubes. Remove and clean the screen or replace the valve. If dirt has gotten into the valve it may not shut off completely and will continuously drip water into the ice maker fill tube and will eventually freeze up. Low household water pressure or a restriction at the manual shut off valve will also cause the water inlet valve to not shut off completely and create this same condition. Self piercing saddle valves are the most common shut off valve to cause this problem as the hole that is pierced in the water line is often too small and will more easily become restricted. The water inlet valve is operated by line voltage supplied through the ice maker control. Power is applied for approximately 7-9 seconds during the harvest cycle and energizes the solenoid on the valve to allow water to flow. You can check the solenoid for continuity with a multi-meter. On models with multiple solenoid inlet valves, you will need to determine which portion or portions of the valve are used for the ice maker. You can normally follow the inlet tubing from the ice maker back to the valve. Unplug the refrigerator and turn off the water supply to the valve before working with this part. (HOW TO TEST INLET VALVE: Inspect the filter screen where the supply line connects. Remove any debris or deposits that may have built up using a toothbrush or warm running water. If you cannot clear theclog, it will be necessary to replace the valve (the filter is not removable on most inlet valves). Test thewaterinletvalve for continuity using a multImeter. First, inspect the coil for an indication of it's ohm rating. If no information is printed on the coil, then use the range of 170 to 500 ohms. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X100 (if available, otherwise use the nearest ohm setting). Place a probe on each terminal. The multitester should display a reading that matches the coil's rating or if you don't know the rating then it should fall into the range of 170 to 500 ohms. If the water inlet valve does not pass this test, it should be replaced. If the inlet valve has two coils, test the second coil in the same way (note that they may not have the same ohm rating). The valve can also fail mechanically. So even if it passes the electrical test, it may still require replacement. If you have ruled out all other possibilities, go ahead and replace the valve. Check the tap valve.A bad tap valve-the little device that connects the ice maker's water supply tube to the water pipe-may cause the problem where the ice maker's supply tube connects to the water pipe. If necessary, replace the inlet valve and the tap valve. For the tap valve, use the type that requires you to drill a 1/4-inch hole (as opposed to the "self-piercing" type). You can buy anice maker connection kitand do this yourself, or call a repair person or plumber to install an inline water filter when replacing the valve. Lastly the ICE MAKER ASSEMBLY: If there are no ice buildup issues or suspected problems with the water supply, then you may have a problem with the ice maker control. The most common type of ice maker used in modern refrigerators is the heat release ice maker. The ice maker uses heat to release the ice cubes. If the water's route is blocked or the solenoid doesn't work-or if the bail wire is lifted-the ice maker won't make ice. (Also note that your home's water pressure may not be strong enough to serve an ice maker.) If you have a heat release or modular ice maker it will have a removable cover at the front. Behind the cover is a series of electrical test points that can be used to diagnose the ice maker. The unit can be manually operated by inserting an insulated jumper wire into test points "T" and "H" to initiate a "test harvest". On other ice makers jumper at points N & M (neutral to Motor) The jumper should be insulated 14 gauge solid wire that has the insulation stripped back about 3/4 of an inch on both ends, and bent into a "U" shape. When inserted into the test points for 5 to 10 seconds, the motor should start and the cycle will continue on its own. You may have to manually close the freezer door switch for this to operate. This test will simulate a real harvest cycle and will operate the ejector blades, shut off arm and the fill valve in the proper sequence, and will allow you to do a proper diagnosis. This is a live voltage test and should only be performed by a qualified person. If the motor does not start, you can verify that you have power to the ice maker at test points "L" and "N". If the ice maker is getting power and does not perform a cycle, then the module will need to be replaced On component mode ice makers the testing is done differently. Testing a thermostat in a component ice maker: The thermostat is located near the bottom ofthe support box. The thermostat is connected by two or three wires.Label the wire placement before disconnecting them. Remove thethermostat by loosening the clamp, by pushing back the retainerclips, or by removing the retaining screws. Test the thermostat forcontinuityusing amultitesterset to the ohms setting X1. Start by testing the thermostat whenit has come up to room temperature (about 20 minutes after removing it from the freezer). If the thermostat has two wires touch one probe to each wire. You should get a reading of infinity.Chill the thermostat in the freezer for about twenty minutes andretest. This time you should get a reading of zero (continuity). If the thermostat has three wires, number them 1, 2 and 3. Test combinations 1 & 2, 1 & 3and 2 & 3 and write down the results. Two of the combinations should yield a reading of infinity and one should yield a readingof zero. Now chill the thermostat in the freezer for about twenty minutes and retest. The combination that had a zero reading before, should now have a reading of infinity. One of the two other combinations should now yield a zero reading.If the thermostat fails this test, it should be replaced. Testing a modular ice maker 'sthermostatcan be tested and replaced individually. Test the thermostat forcontinuityusing amultitesterset to the ohms setting X1. Start by testing the thermostat when it is cold (10 degrees). Insert one probe into the hole labeled "T" and the other probe into the hole labeled "H". The meter should indicate zero resistance (continuity). After the ice maker has warmed up, repeat the test and this time the meter should indicate infiinity (no continuity).If the thermostat does not pass both tests, it should be replaced. God is the reason I give you free advice so God is good!

Please tell me you cut the power to the fridge before leaving the doors open. Assuming you did I would have
to say it's going to take awhile before the water in the reservoir gets cold. I don't work on a lot of Sub-Zeros
but if I had to guess I would say that's it. Give it some time before getting water. See what happens. I can tell
you personally no body likes working on them.

if it has an alarm key hold it for 15 seconds.

Hi, Subzero wants customers to call the on these, Call them and most likely they will concession the parts needed to save you some money. I see this a lot as I am a certified repair person. This you save you about 500 or so, but your question is yes, this is about right as the EPA mandates us to recover and collect the charge of freon. The disposal fee and equipment is what makes the rate higher on any refrigerator not just yours. Original warranty was 12 years parts, I am sure they will help if your using a certified servicer. Good Luck I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gere_bf68e6055dd61249

Condenser fans (the fan next to the compressor) do run all of the time. That is normal.

Bernie,Your water dispenser is controlled by a solenoid valve that is often in tandem with the ice maker water valve (meaning two valves side by side). Check and make sure the water is dripping from the water outlet tube only, in which case the solenoid valve is leaking. However...sometimes what happens is that the door that isolates the ice shoot (and the inside of the freezer) from the outside can get stuck open. Either blocked, mineral build up, broken etc..and water (melting ice) will drip down and out. This can lead to other problems so be sure the flapper door from the ice dispensor is ALL the way closed. If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/steve_24d988f3507f7480

http://www.subzero.com/resources/products/downloads/600ucguide.pdf
Refer to page 15 and 16 of the use and care instructions on how to remove and install the "ice tray"
Thank you,
Lee

Could you please describe the problem you are having a little better?

song to me door gasket was not properly installed, We using electric steamers to make rubber softer and good sticking. Right after door seal was replaced. Also, it could be that: a bottom door hinge parts broken /little white plastic cams damaged/,or, fridge not leveled or too heavy load on door shelfs.






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maybe anything the light bulb