20 Most Recent Frigidaire FRS3R5EMB Side by Side Refrigerator - Page 7 Questions & Answers

You need to change the control board

check fittings might have a hole in the line inside the door

Hello Brent, thank you for allowing me to assist you. When the refrigerator is beeping or buzzing, it may be a warning sign of a possible malfunction or an unsafe, interior temperature. To silence the beeping, you can depress the ALARM OFF button. However, if you have already done this, try unplugging the unit or flipping the household circuit breaker for about ten minutes. I certainly hope this troubleshooting tip resolves your concern, if the alarm continues; it could possibly be experiencing a communication problem with the temperature control/board or wiring failure. Should you need further assistance you can go to the manufacturer website to find a service provider in near you. If there is anything else that I can help you with, please feel free to reconnect!

Good Afternoon John, thank you for your post! Your new high-efficiency refrigerator may make unfamiliar sounds. These are all normal sounds and soon will become a common hum in your home. This noise also indicates your refrigerator is operating as designed. Hard surfaces, such as vinyl or wood floors, walls, and kitchen cabinets may make sounds more noticeable. Listed below are descriptions of some of the most common sounds you may hear, and what is causing them: A. Evaporator: The flow of refrigerant through the evaporator may create a boiling or gurgling sound. B. Evaporator Fan: You may hear air being forced through the refrigerator by the evaporator fan. C. Defrost Heater: During defrost cycles, water dripping onto the defrost heater may cause a hissing or sizzling sound. After defrosting, a popping sound may occur. D. Automatic Ice Maker: If your refrigerator is equipped with an automatic ice maker, you will hear ice cubes falling into the ice bin. E. Cold Control & Defrost Timer or Automatic Defrost Control: These parts can produce a snapping or clicking sound when turning the refrigerator on and off. The timer also produces sounds similar to an electric clock. F. Condenser Fan: If condenser coils are located underneath your refrigerator you have a condenser fan. You may hear air being forced through the condenser by the condenser fan. G. Compressor: Modern, high-efficiency compressors operate much faster than older models. The compressor may have a high-pitched hum or pulsating sound. H. Water Valve: If your refrigerator is equipped with an automatic ice maker, you will hear a buzzing sound as the water valve opens to fill the ice maker during each cycle. I. Drain Pan (Non-removable): You may hear water running into the drain pan during the defrost cycle. The drain pan will be located on top of the compressor for air-cooled condensers (black coils on back of refrigerator). I do hope this information proves to be helpful. Should you need any further assistance please feel free to respond.

have you recently changed the filter? try turning it in tighter. you may need a new filter base or a new filter if the seals are missing or something on a new one.

If it is a squeak, you can lubricate the door hinges. If it is some other noise you will need to describe it.

Do you have a seperate control for the freezer? What is it set at?

Most likely the=> 5303918476 Defrost Control Board will need to be replaced. This board can be found inside the control panel inside the fresh food compartment. Unplug power and lets examine the board. Here is another source for the board 5303918476 Defrost Control Board Here is a photo of the inside of the control panel HERE and item location 23 is that board. I am here should you have questions, Sea BreezeSoemtimes the defrost control board will show signs of failure with burn marks and heat damage but not always. It is likely this board is the problem and in some cases the start relay and run capacitor can cause these same symptons.

Good Morning Dean - If your ice maker has stopped producing ice completely, please check these, in this order: · Your ice maker may be turned off. Look for the wire along the right side of the ice maker that looks a bit like a coat hanger. If the wire is in the raised position, the ice maker is turned off. If so, try one of these: If your ice maker has a small red plastic lever, lower it to lower the wire. If there's no plastic lever, simply lower the wire. In either case, the ice maker should begin producing ice again. · Also make sure that the temperature is 8 degrees Fahrenheit or lower. If the freezer is too warm, the ice maker won't cycle properly. · When was the last time the filter was changed? Most side-by-side filters are recommended to be change approximately every 6-9 months depending on your water usage and frequency. · The ice maker fill tube may be blocked with ice. If so, melt the blockage using a hair dryer - but be careful to not melt any plastic parts! · Also replace the water shut-off valve or water-inlet valve, or both, if necessary. The ice maker head assembly may have broken parts. Look to see if the gears are broken. Check to see if the small plastic arms that rest against the ice rake are broken. If the ice maker head assembly is modular and you've found broken parts, you can just replace it. Should these suggestions prove ineffective, I would recommend contacting an authorized service technician that will be able to assist you in the diagnosis and repair of your ice maker. If you do not have a professional connection, you have the option to visit the manufacturer website to find a service provider in your area.

Good Morning Patty - Often when the unit is not cooling properly, it is because there could be a coolant leak or an issue with the internal sealed system including a faulty compressor or evaporate fan. Are you referring to how to access inside the cabinet of the unit? If so, unfortunately that would not be possible. All freezer components must be accessed from the inside the freezer compartment. I have located the Parts Manual on the manufacturer website for the model number posted above. Hope this information proves to be helpful and please feel free to reconnect if you have any further questions.

keep in mind, this will void any warentee, it sounds like you lost a fan blade and it locked up the motor, so your evap fan isnt spinning, you will need to replace the fan motor, this is easy.... now to get to it, you might have to find the clips on the bottom, requirs laying it down, it may need to slide the whole outer case off as one unit, but if u want try the back of the fridge for clips and bolts.

Look at the 2 blades where the cube sticks carefully.

My bet is that the blades are ever-so-slightly bent toward one another - or the factory remove-before-use lable remmnants are still on one of the facing blades.

If label is there, remove with edge of credit card. Don't force, USE NO TOOLS
If they are metal and bent, simply bend very slightly beyond parallel and check again until straight
If they are plastic and bent, bend farther than needed and let slowly loose. Check and repeat

Good Luck!

Either the start relay and start capacitor or the Adaptive Defrost control is burned out. If you have a voltage meter we can test a few things like the compressor and the capasitor. The part number for the Adaptive defrost is 241508001 and found inside the fresh food compartment behind the control panel. I can help you locate the problem if you like. Let me know, Thanks, Sea Breeze