Frigidaire FGB24L2A Gas Single Oven - Page 8 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

If your oven has internal fuses, a wiring or component problem could have caused a fuse to blow. A blown fuse is an indication that a component has shorted or failed, and the problem will need to be corrected. Most ovens that use fuses will have an indication of the circuits that are affected by a particular fuse. If an oven fuse has blown, then you should inspect the oven element and the associated wiring to determine the cause before replacing the fuse. THINGS TO CHECK: the broil element is the heating element that is found at the top of the oven and produces a very high heat for broiling. If the broil element isn't working, you should first do a visual inspection for signs that the element has blistered or separated. If the element appears normal then you can check for continuity with a multi-meter. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test. Remove the back panel and locate the terminals for the broil element and inspect the terminals and wires for signs of overheating or damage. If there is no continuity then the element will need to be replaced. If the wires are damaged then they will need to be repaired. If the element is ok then you will need to check the broil circuit to determine the cause. This involves live voltage checks and should only be performed by qualified persons. Components to check include fuses, if the range is equipped, and oven control thermostat or electronic control. The bake element is the heating element that is found at the bottom of the oven. Most electric ovens use both the bake element and the broil element in a bake cycle, with the bake element performing 90% of the heating. If the bake element isn't working, the oven may not heat. To help determine if the bake element is defective you should first do a visual check. If the element is blistered or separated then it should be replaced. If the element appears to look normal, then turn the oven on to a bake function for a minute and then turn it off. Check the element for signs of heating and if it is still cold then it may be defective. Disconnect the power and then remove the back panel. First check the wires as they may have become loose or corroded. If the element appears to be fine visually, test it for continuity with a multi-meter. ( by placing the each of the meter prongs on each end of the heater element connectors) If the element is burned or no longer has continuity, it will need to be replaced. The oven safety valve (also called the gas valve) is the part that ensures that gas is not released until the igniter has reached the correct temperature needed to ignite the gas. While this part can fail, it is uncommon. If the hot surface igniter does not glow you should first verify that you have voltage to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If voltage is lost at the valve terminals then you should verify the continuity of the bi-metal in the valve using a multi-meter. Surface burners are typically either a coil type, solid type or a ribbon coil as used in smooth top ranges. All of these consist of a heating wire that uses electric current to produce heat. Coil type elements can be checked for continuity by removing them from the terminal block and testing them with a multi-meter. You should also inspect the terminal ends for signs of heat damage or corrosion, and if present, you should replace the terminal block or receptacle at the same time. You will need to remove power from the range to change the terminal block. Solid elements and smooth top elements require raising or removing the main top to gain access. You will need to remove power from the range before lifting the main top. Continuity can then be checked with a multi-meter, once you have removed the wires from the element terminals. On modern electronic control ranges, the oven temperature sensor is the part that regulates the oven temperature. If it is not working properly it could be the reason why the range or oven won't start. This part can be found inside the oven on the rear wall near the top. Most modern ovens will display a fault code if the oven sensor is at fault. If you think the sensor may be the issue you can check the resistance with a multi-meter but will need to know the correct resistance of the sensor at room temperature. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test. The infinite switch on the control panel controls the power to each surface element. If you have no heat at an element and the element and terminal block check ok, then you may have a defective infinite switch. Disconnect power to the range and remove the console back panel. Locate the switch and check for overheated wires or faulty terminals first. Test the switch's contacts for continuity with a multi-meter. If defective, replace the switch. If the infinite switch does not appear to be defective, then you should check for proper voltage to the switch. This is a live high voltage test and should only be performed by qualified persons. Most modern ovens use an electronic control board to control the oven functions. These models will use the control board to operate the oven safety valve on a gas range or oven, and the bake and broil elements on an electric range or oven. If there is no power to the igniter circuit, or the element circuits, then you should check the control board to verify that there is power at the appropriate output relay. These are live voltage checks and should be performed by qualified persons only. If there is no output voltage then the control should be replaced. The oven burner igniter commonly known as the hot surface igniter is used in modern gas oven burners to open the gas valve and to ignite the gas. As the igniter draws electric current it will heat to a high temperature and glow, as well as cause the bi-metal in the oven safety valve to warp and open the valve releasing the gas to be ignited. This sequence normally takes about a minute. Igniters come in both flat and round styles and are very fragile. If the burner does not light then you should check the igniter first. If the igniter does not glow at all, then check for power to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If power is present then the igniter may be open circuit and can be checked for continuity with a multi-meter. If the igniter is glowing, but the burner is not lighting, the igniter may be weak and still be at fault because it requires a certain amount of current draw to open the valve. This check requires the use of an amp meter and should be performed by a qualified person. If the igniter is defective then it must be replaced.

The bake element is the heating element that is found at the bottom of the oven. Most electric ovens use both the bake element and the broil element in a bake cycle, with the bake element performing 90% of the heating. If the bake element isn't working, the oven may not heat. To help determine if the bake element is defective you should first do a visual check. If the element is blistered or separated then it should be replaced. If the element appears to look normal, then turn the oven on to a bake function for a minute and then turn it off. Check the element for signs of heating and if it is still cold then it may be defective. Disconnect the power and then remove the back panel. First check the wires as they may have become loose or corroded. If the element appears to be fine visually, test it for continuity with a multi-meter. ( by placing the each of the meter prongs on each end of the heater element connectors) If the element is burned or no longer has continuity, it will need to be replaced. The oven safety valve (also called the gas valve) is the part that ensures that gas is not released until the igniter has reached the correct temperature needed to ignite the gas. While this part can fail, it is uncommon. If the hot surface igniter does not glow you should first verify that you have voltage to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If voltage is lost at the valve terminals then you should verify the continuity of the bi-metal in the valve using a multi-meter.

Surface burners are typically either a coil type, solid type or a ribbon coil as used in smooth top ranges. All of these consist of a heating wire that uses electric current to produce heat. Coil type elements can be checked for continuity by removing them from the terminal block and testing them with a multi-meter. You should also inspect the terminal ends for signs of heat damage or corrosion, and if present, you should replace the terminal block or receptacle at the same time. You will need to remove power from the range to change the terminal block. Solid elements and smooth top elements require raising or removing the main top to gain access. You will need to remove power from the range before lifting the main top. Continuity can then be checked with a multi-meter, once you have removed the wires from the element terminals. On modern electronic control ranges, the oven temperature sensor is the part that regulates the oven temperature. If it is not working properly it could be the reason why the range or oven won't start. This part can be found inside the oven on the rear wall near the top. Most modern ovens will display a fault code if the oven sensor is at fault. If you think the sensor may be the issue you can check the resistance with a multi-meter but will need to know the correct resistance of the sensor at room temperature. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test. The infinite switch on the control panel controls the power to each surface element. If you have no heat at an element and the element and terminal block check ok, then you may have a defective infinite switch. Disconnect power to the range and remove the console back panel. Locate the switch and check for overheated wires or faulty terminals first. Test the switch's contacts for continuity with a multi-meter. If defective, replace the switch. If the infinite switch does not appear to be defective, then you should check for proper voltage to the switch. This is a live high voltage test and should only be performed by qualified persons. Most modern ovens use an electronic control board to control the oven functions. These models will use the control board to operate the oven safety valve on a gas range or oven, and the bake and broil elements on an electric range or oven. If there is no power to the igniter circuit, or the element circuits, then you should check the control board to verify that there is power at the appropriate output relay. These are live voltage checks and should be performed by qualified persons only. If there is no output voltage then the control should be replaced. The oven burner igniter commonly known as the hot surface igniter is used in modern gas oven burners to open the gas valve and to ignite the gas. As the igniter draws electric current it will heat to a high temperature and glow, as well as cause the bi-metal in the oven safety valve to warp and open the valve releasing the gas to be ignited. This sequence normally takes about a minute. Igniters come in both flat and round styles and are very fragile. If the burner does not light then you should check the igniter first. If the igniter does not glow at all, then check for power to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If power is present then the igniter may be open circuit and can be checked for continuity with a multi-meter. If the igniter is glowing, but the burner is not lighting, the igniter may be weak and still be at fault because it requires a certain amount of current draw to open the valve. This check requires the use of an amp meter and should be performed by a qualified person. If the igniter is defective then it must be replaced.

the oven sensor is what detects the amount of heat needed to operate correctly. thus it if is not detecting any heat you may have no operation of oven

1.Aclicking sound could be something wrong with a relay. Check for any loose connections around the main control board on your oven. The click you hear is a relay losing power and switching back on. If the clock resets then something is causing power interruptions to the board. If your oven has internal fuses, a wiring or component problem could have caused a fuse to blow. A blown fuse is an indication that a component has shorted or failed, and the problem will need to be corrected. Most ovens that use fuses will have an indication of the circuits that are affected by a particular fuse. If an oven fuse has blown, then you should inspect the oven element and the associated wiring to determine the cause before replacing the fuse. THINGS TO CHECK: the broil element is the heating element that is found at the top of the oven and produces a very high heat for broiling. If the broil element isn't working, you should first do a visual inspection for signs that the element has blistered or separated. If the element appears normal then you can check for continuity with a multi-meter. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test. Remove the back panel and locate the terminals for the broil element and inspect the terminals and wires for signs of overheating or damage. If there is no continuity then the element will need to be replaced. If the wires are damaged then they will need to be repaired. If the element is ok then you will need to check the broil circuit to determine the cause. This involves live voltage checks and should only be performed by qualified persons. Components to check include fuses, if the range is equipped, and oven control thermostat or electronic control. The bake element is the heating element that is found at the bottom of the oven. Most electric ovens use both the bake element and the broil element in a bake cycle, with the bake element performing 90% of the heating. If the bake element isn't working, the oven may not heat. To help determine if the bake element is defective you should first do a visual check. If the element is blistered or separated then it should be replaced. If the element appears to look normal, then turn the oven on to a bake function for a minute and then turn it off. Check the element for signs of heating and if it is still cold then it may be defective. Disconnect the power and then remove the back panel. First check the wires as they may have become loose or corroded. If the element appears to be fine visually, test it for continuity with a multi-meter. If the element is burned or no longer has continuity, it will need to be replaced. The oven safety valve (also called the gas valve) is the part that ensures that gas is not released until the igniter has reached the correct temperature needed to ignite the gas. While this part can fail, it is uncommon. If the hot surface igniter does not glow you should first verify that you have voltage to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If voltage is lost at the valve terminals then you should verify the continuity of the bi-metal in the valve using a multi-meter.

Surface burners are typically either a coil type, solid type or a ribbon coil as used in smooth top ranges. All of these consist of a heating wire that uses electric current to produce heat. Coil type elements can be checked for continuity by removing them from the terminal block and testing them with a multi-meter. You should also inspect the terminal ends for signs of heat damage or corrosion, and if present, you should replace the terminal block or receptacle at the same time. You will need to remove power from the range to change the terminal block. Solid elements and smooth top elements require raising or removing the main top to gain access. You will need to remove power from the range before lifting the main top. Continuity can then be checked with a multi-meter, once you have removed the wires from the element terminals. On modern electronic control ranges, the oven temperature sensor is the part that regulates the oven temperature. If it is not working properly it could be the reason why the range or oven won't start. This part can be found inside the oven on the rear wall near the top. Most modern ovens will display a fault code if the oven sensor is at fault. If you think the sensor may be the issue you can check the resistance with a multi-meter but will need to know the correct resistance of the sensor at room temperature. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test. The infinite switch on the control panel controls the power to each surface element. If you have no heat at an element and the element and terminal block check ok, then you may have a defective infinite switch. Disconnect power to the range and remove the console back panel. Locate the switch and check for overheated wires or faulty terminals first. Test the switch's contacts for continuity with a multi-meter. If defective, replace the switch. If the infinite switch does not appear to be defective, then you should check for proper voltage to the switch. This is a live high voltage test and should only be performed by qualified persons. Most modern ovens use an electronic control board to control the oven functions. These models will use the control board to operate the oven safety valve on a gas range or oven, and the bake and broil elements on an electric range or oven. If there is no power to the igniter circuit, or the element circuits, then you should check the control board to verify that there is power at the appropriate output relay. These are live voltage checks and should be performed by qualified persons only. If there is no output voltage then the control should be replaced. The oven burner igniter commonly known as the hot surface igniter is used in modern gas oven burners to open the gas valve and to ignite the gas. As the igniter draws electric current it will heat to a high temperature and glow, as well as cause the bi-metal in the oven safety valve to warp and open the valve releasing the gas to be ignited. This sequence normally takes about a minute. Igniters come in both flat and round styles and are very fragile. If the burner does not light then you should check the igniter first. If the igniter does not glow at all, then check for power to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If power is present then the igniter may be open circuit and can be checked for continuity with a multi-meter. If the igniter is glowing, but the burner is not lighting, the igniter may be weak and still be at fault because it requires a certain amount of current draw to open the valve. This check requires the use of an amp meter and should be performed by a qualified person. If the igniter is defective then it must be replaced.

Good Morning Richard, thank you for your inquiry!

Based off the information you have provided your Frigidaire oven door is stuck closed and you are unable to shut the door. You can disconnect power from your range for at least ten minutes and that will reset your oven. This may trick your door latch into opening.

You can also hold down the cancel or clear button for 10 to 15 seconds that may allow your door latch to release. Also attempt to hold down the light and cancel buttons. I hope this information has been helpful to some degree. -Matt

Hello Richard; My name is Peter. I am a retired field service appliance technician. You have an old unit. Some parts such as the door switch are no longer available. You door lock should only engage when you are in the self cleaning mode. So you have a communications problem between the door lock and you control panel. Latch Motor Substitution: 5304449471 Cost $180.00 Substitution: 316131600R Cost: $130.00 You may to replace one or both of these components. Based on the cost of the parts and my service call experience you are looking at a $500.00 -$600.00 service call. It's time for a new unit. Go into the internet and search; :Sears Outlet Store". This is a scratch and dent store where you can save several hundred dollars on a new unit with a one year warrantee.

There should be a little screw on your oven control back of the control handle which you pull the handle off to get to it. Don't turn very much but you will need a thermometer to check the heat degrees when you do this.

Good Morning friend, thank you for your post!

Based off the information you have provided your Frigidaire oven, PLEF398DCH, has locked you out and you are unable to fix it. Sometimes a reset can fix this problem. In order to reset your oven you would need to flip the household circuit breaker off for roughly ten minutes.

If this does not help correct the issue you can perform a self-clean and right before the clean starts press the cancel or clear button. This should trick the oven into disengaging your door lock. Lastly, hold down the clear or cancel button for 10 to 15 seconds and that should release the lock. If you perform all this troubleshooting and the door is still locked it could be a bad latch and that may need to be replaced. I hope this information is helpful. -Matt

Hello friend, that's a great question!

Based off what you have provided your Frigidaire oven is displaying an error code of "E13" and you would like to know what is causing this problem. The error code "E13" stands for a bad EEPROM (Erasable Programmable Read Only Memory) and this could be an issue with the UIB (User Interface Board). This electrical component may need to be replaced however this is not a simple DIY job. I would recommend speaking with a professional technician for proper diagnosis and repairs. This will prevent you from making unnecessary part purchases. -Matt

The ESEC system and the electronic oven control ain't communicating. Check the wiring connections between the oven control and the esec controls. The thang is designed to lockout the top burners while the self clean feature is in use. If you failed to reconnect that connection which feeds back to the ESEC I imagine nothing does work. LOL. here's a video which shows how it works and I have the manual loaded on Gdocs fo you.



30 Inch Freestanding Electric Ranges_Rev A (5995438461).pdf (4 megs) printable.

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

Hello friend, that's a great question!

From my understanding you want to light the inside of your Frigidaire oven. Typically, this is done by an electronic igniter and if that is bad then your oven will not light. Any electrical components could require a disassembly of your oven. This is not a simple DIY job and I would suggest having a technician out to perform a diagnosis and repair. They would have the appropriate tools needed to accurately repair your oven without causing any future issues. I hope this information is helpful. -Matt

Thank you for your inquiry, friend! From the information you have provided you need assistance unlocking your Frigidaire oven. Performing a reset on your oven can trigger the door latch to unlock, in order to reset your oven you would need to disconnect power from it for roughly ten minutes. If this does not unlock your oven you can also hold down the clear or cancel button for 10 to 15 seconds. You can also attempt to perform a self-clean cycle and before the cycle starts cancel it and that can trick your oven into unlocking. If these troubleshooting steps do not help resolve your issue please feel free to reconnect. I would be happy to provide you further assistance. -Matt

Hello Susan, thank you for your post!

I understand that you need help setting the clock on your Frigidaire range. Could you provide me with your model number please? You should be able to locate the serial tag (which lists the model number) on the frame behind the bottom drawer. With this information I can better assist you. -Matt

Hey friend, thank you for your post!

Based off what you have described your Frigidaire oven is making a whining noise while it is on. This could be a problem with your motor or fan. In order to properly locate the issue you would need to disassemble your oven and make sure each component is receiving the proper amount of power. This is not a simple DIY job and to properly disassemble your oven, you may want to seek assistance from a professional. They have all the appropriate tools needed to pinpoint the issue with your oven. Good luck. -Matt

Good Morning mark, thank you for your post!

Based off the information you have provided your Frigidaire range is displaying an error code of "F10". An "F10" error code normally stands for a runaway temperature (overheating). This could be an issue with your RTD (Resistance Temperature Detector) or the EOC (Electronic Oven Control). I would recommend performing a reset on your oven and you can do that by flipping the household circuit breaker off for ten minutes. If you continue to experience an issue with the "F10" error code I would recommend having a professional technician out to your home for proper diagnosis and replacement of any electrical components. This will help you avoid any unnecessary part purchases. Hopefully this information has been helpful. -Matt

The electronic controls may have been subjected to fatal voltages and only a trained tech will be able to assess the failure. If in the US, check the website of your local Better Business Bureau to locate a trusted service company.

Hi friend, thank you for your post!

From my understanding your broiler is not working and your Frigidaire oven is not displaying any type of error codes. Sounds like you may have a possible issue with the thermostat, control panel, or element. I would recommend contacting a professional technician in order to have them complete a diagnosis on your oven. This will help to avoid any unnecessary part purchases. Hopefully this is helpful. -Matt

Good Evening yorel13, that's a great question!

From my understanding you would like a diagram in order to replace the fan inside of your Frigidaire oven. I was unable to locate any step by step instructions on how to change the fan on your oven. This may not be a simple DIY job. YI would suggest contacting a professional technician for proper repair. If you do not have a professional connection, you have the option to visit the manufacturer website to find a service provider in your area. Hope this helps! -Matt