20 Most Recent Frigidaire FEB27S5A Electric Single Oven - Page 3 Questions & Answers

Hi,the problem is obviously from the control board,it's probably weak or bad and actually needs a replacement,but here is the solution;
You have to take apart your unit and replace the control board with another one,as a warning,don't do this yourself if you are not technically inclined

Thanks and take care

Hi,

The part is called the terminal block and is part number 5304409888

It gets burned due to not being connected tight when the oven was installed or worked on last.

Replace the block and repair any burned wire ends. Make sure connections are tight and you will be good to go

The oven controller is failed.

Hi,
Check out this tip that I wrote about this problem...

http://www.fixya.com/support/r4511800-oven_problems_electric_oven_heating

heatman101

Hi,
Follow the procedure mentioned below :
Depress the plunger that senses the oven door is shut.
Restart the Cleaning Cycle on the oven. This may cause the door lock latch to extend or move unless it is already fully extended.
Allow 2 minutes for the locking process to fully end. Continue to constantly hold the plunger in so that the control senses the oven door is shut.
Cancel the cleaning cycle while still holding the plunger in. This may cause the door lock latch to move back to the open position. This may take a couple of minutes.
If this troubleshooting process works, your oven will be back to a normal unlocked position. If not, you will probably need a service technician to diagnose and repair your oven.


Hope this helps .

Hello there!

It depends over a lot ot sets of those self cleaning oven...

IS there any instruction manual for that device, there must be, search over the internet i really dont know what could i suggest to you if i dont have any details. Good luck! =)

Sincerely
Aleksandar Adzic

Hi,
Your symptom indicates the loss of L2 voltage into the oven control board or the loss of L2 voltage out of the oven control board. Line two (L2) is common to both elements (bake & broil). The likely failure is the electronic oven control board. In order to diagnose will require verifying the voltage supply in and out of the control board. The bake and broil elements must receive L1 and L2 voltage in order to heat. It would be vary rare to have both elements fail at the same time. The only common denominator is Line two (L2) voltage.

The circuit diagram can be found from the link below :

Circuit diagram


Hope this helps .

this is not the correct model number for a stove how ever is the burner is not working correctly the the chance of a faulty switch is your best option.if it is a glas top stove then the thermastat that regulates the heat can be faulty they are design to go on and off depending on there temp setting

Hi,
Here is a tip that I wrote about that problem...

http://www.fixya.com/support/r4404788-electric_oven_problem_oven_will_not_shut

heatman101

It should glow almost a bright white. If its just an orange glow then replace the ignitor. Its probably just weak. If its weak it will not allow enough current to flow through it to open the gas valve. Good luck _MJ_

Hello- Sorry - no good news here. The code described- F5 - indicates control board failure. The only solution is to replace the clock timer. Part is about 150$.  Installation is fairly easy, if cost is justified. These computers are the weakest link in modern ovens. If you do go with repair, avoid using the 'self-clean' function. This is the usual cause of control failure. Please acknowledge this post if informative.- Thanks-  Ed

I want to find a list of repair shops, but I only get first four icons, not the one that list repair shops can you help me.

sounds like you have problems with the main pcb,or clock. If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dude_653d05454b389bba

check the voltage going into the heating element. If you've got voltage then that means the element is bad, if you don't there must be a break in the line somewhere between the thermostat and the element.

Sounds like the igniter, Here is a video that shows you how to test it. Scroll down to How to Troubleshoot a gas oven that won't heat.
www.appliancehelponline.com/servicemanual.html

This is a common control board failure that we repair often. Here is a link to an article on this topic that may help you:
http://www.fixyourboard.com/techzone/ovens/f1_error/f1_error.html

Best Regards,
Bruce
www.fixyourboard.com

I would check the valve switches. Chances are one of them is stuck. If they are not overly expensive I would recommend replacing all 4 while it is apart.
Eric

The bottom element needs replacement.

Check to see if the condenser fan at the back underneath near the compressor is running. It should run when the compressor runs.

Are the condenser coils near there warm or room temp. should be warm




Is the evaporator fan in the freezer running. It's behind the rear panel inside the freezer. It blows cold air into the fridge side through a damper in the wall between the freezer and fridge. Make sure the damper is open.

Below the evaporator fan is the evaporator coils. Remove the back cover in the freezer to observe the frost pattern. Light frost everywhere(NORMAL) or a partial pattern of ice(LOW ON FREON) or nothing(LOW FREON OR COMPRESSOR PROBLEM).

look closley at teh bottom bake element possible it has broken, causing this problem