20 Most Recent Nikon FA 35mm SLR Camera - Page 7 Questions & Answers

The bottom will fit, but the top cover for an FE2 is quite different than an FM.

use the D60 and get rid of the film camera

What lenses/sizes do you have??

It's a very common problem with older cameras and is an irreversible breakdown of the foam which was used to provide light-proof seals on the camera back and also to cover the pentaprism and provide a mirror buffer. (The pentaprism and mirror buffer are part of the viewfinder system).

The first problem is that when the foam turns to goo it allows light to leak into the camera and spoil the film, but that's the least of it. Where it gets serious is that the goo spreads inside and can gum up delicate moving parts; worst of all the goo is somewhat corrosive and can damage the coatings on the pentaprism leaving permanent residual ghosting images in the viewfinder.

The good news is that it's a well understood problem and every professional camera repairer can remove the goo and restore the camera as part of the regular service that all SLR's should periodically undergo. The foam will be replaced by modern materials which do not degrade. Some repairers also replace the mirror buffer, others will just remove the old foam and omit the buffer, but I always insist on a new buffer. At the same time, the repairer will give the camera a thorough CLA service (Clean, Lubricate, Adjust) which for a camera in non-professional use will often see it through a few more years, but I'd recommend getting a CLA done annually if you're well off and every couple of years if funds are tighter. The CLA will also ensure that the light metering is correct and on cameras using the older mercury oxide batteries can include a meter recalibration to allow use of modern silver oxide equivalents which have a higher voltage as the mercury cells are no longer available. (Some folks use manganese dioxide batteries, but they start off at a voltage slightly higher than the camera was designed for and constantly drift down with use to way below the nominal voltage, so metering is neither consistent nor accurate). A regular CLA with foam removal costs a bit more than a regular CLA but is a once only expenditure. Some repairers charge for recalibrating the meter for silver oxide batteries, but most won't if you politely explain that you can always take the camera elsewhere.

DIY kits are also available and some are very good indeed, but they can be fiddly and messy to fit and none of them address the more serious issue of the pentaprism. In practice, repairers will remove the old foam from the pentaprism but almost never fit a replacement. It's not strictly necessary and the reluctance to fit a replacement stems from the risk of further damage to the pentaprism by the adhesive. The outside of the pentaprism is normally painted black from new, but foam goo usually attacks the paint and partially removes it. it also attacks and removes any optical multicoatings on the prism. When this has occurred there is no fix: the problem will not worsen once the foam has been removed but there will be residual damage visible in the viewfinder as ghostly dull patches, but this is something which can be tolerated and will not affect image quality.

If you want a cheap quick fix, then use a q-tip (UK= cotton bud), a wooden cocktail stick/toothpick and some alcohol to remove all visible traces of gooey foam. Omit the mirror buffer altogether and take your chances with the prism foam. To replace the rear light seal just use a length of woollen yarn: you'll find that if you twist it slightly it will reduce in diameter and allow you to press it into the slot where the foam was using a toothpick. Usually you can get away without gluing it, but if any glue must be used then use a few very sparing dots of something easily removed such as Copydex or the rubber cement sold for repairing bicycle inner tubes. At the hinge end of the camera back will be a thicker, wider bit of foam. Just use a few dabs of glue or to secure a good thick double or even triple width of yarn. The fix isn't a professional one, but it's good enough and was how the seals were made before rubber foam was invented. It also buys you the time to decide whether you like using your Nikon enough to invest in a professional CLA with the additional options.

I hope that my reply has given you a few options and will enable you to get your camera into working condition again. All I ask is that you return the favour by taking a moment to rate my answer.

Press the self-timer button just to the right of the LCD panel and confirm that the self-timer icon appears. Press the shutter release halfway to focus and meter. Press the shutter the rest of the way to activate.To cancel, either turn the camera off or press the self-timer button until the self-timer icon disappears.

You can get a manual at http://www.butkus.org/chinon/nikon.htm

http://www.butkus.org/chinon/nikon.htm

You can get a manual at http://butkus.org/chinon/nikon.htm

Do you mean the N5005? You can find a manual for that at http://www.butkus.org/chinon/nikon.htm

http://www.butkus.org/chinon/nikon.htm

Slide or negative film? Is the coloring wrong just on the prints? If so, it could be that they just screwed up printing. I'd take the prints back and demand a new set--or my money back.

I have a nikon camera, and they usually lable the timer next to the button. Or they will use a graphic that looks like a clock and has a little hand on it,

have you tries changing the battery in the camera. if you try to take a photo with a dead battery it will lock the mirror up. If changing the battery doesn't make the mirror release turn the shutter speed dial to "B" and that should release the mirror

Hi ceciljohn,

Got your manual here:

http://www.lensinc.net/manuals/F601UserL.pdf

Regards
R.K.

You need the MC12A remote shutter release.

They're widely available on eBay and Amazon.

I hope this has answered your question, please return the favour by rating my answer.

Press the R1 and R2 release buttons. Pull up on winder handle until the back of the camera opens. Continue the pressure on winder handle until you have removed the film canister. Insert new film canister. Pull leader across winder assembly. Close camera back. Press exposure button. Press winder handle in towards camera b

You can find the manual you are looking for here.

http://www.butkus.org/chinon/nikon/nikon_f/nikon_f.htm

Have fun!

Do you have a compatible AF-lens? Some of the lenses do not work with some of the AF-bodies.

There are so many cameras out of production now. My thought would be to go to ebay and look up nikon parts in the camea section. Most parts are not that expensive. If the back is not module then go to a camera repair person you at least have the part. I've had to do that twice. Good luck.

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