Top 20 Jenn-Air JED8430 Electric Cooktop - Page 5 Questions & Answers

Hi There
I found the fault codes for you and i hope this will help you.Let me know when you can.
F7 Function key shorted or stuck button Replace touch pad or clock assembly (also called the ERC) or attempt to un-stick buttonThank you for writing to fix ya.
Best regards Richard

You might be able to do the job yourself, but it can be quite challenging. You should definitely consider getting a tech to do it. Whether you'll save any by getting the part yourself depends on the repair outfit. However, if they order the part and it's wrong or something doesn't work out, they are responsible- not you. Some places might charge you for the extra callout if they have to make an xtra trip for wrong part.

check out
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=47639&diagram_id=681565#d681565

I had the same problem. Mine was caused by liquid seeping into the infinite switch (the switch that gets rotated by the knob to set burner temperature). This caused one of the live wires to short to ground within the switch. Bad Design IMHO. Replacing the switch fixed the problem (you can get replacement parts at Searspartsdirect.com - search using the cooktop model number).
You first need to remove the unit from its installation. Start by disconnecting the exhaust fan from the ductwork. Then push the cooktop up.
To get at the switch you need to remove the top by taking off only the top row of screws all around the unit and also in the down draft cavity (the down draft cavity is where the grease guard mesh is)

1) turn off power at the breaker. 2) remove hold down screws 3) pop up cooktop out of counter top 4) remove knobs and downdraft grille 5) remove ceramic top (screws around outside and also in side grille opening) 6) unplug burners replace with new burner

Most stove vents have a diverter plate which prevents air from coming in. When the fan is turned on, this diverter is opened by the air flow and allows the air to flow through. It sounds like this plate is either stuck or was not installed when the ventilation duct was installed.

its not suppose to stay on for long time...its suppose to recycle...set it at high heat all burners should come on for few seconds and then go off for few seconds...small burner do faster then bigg ones

Bad oven sensor or ecu"clock"

I think that one or more of your infinite switches have shorted and need to be replaced.

For an exploded view of the unit check out
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=47639&diagram_id=681565#d681565

For details on how to replace the switches, check out my other posts

its would be best to install a damper
whether auto matic
or manuely operated
this is a common problem for the down draft
ive seen some people install things similar
to dryer vent louvers,
but check you exhaust area and still if you can block direct draft
but dont block it so that it cannot exhaust properly

black to black
red to red
white to white
green to copper

These burners are not supposed to be operated uncovered. If indeed the burner is covered and it is still causing the controls to burn than the resistance for that burner is failing and the burner should be replaced. Thank you, Dana

HI, The button is spring loaded. the mechanism is damaged. This will require you to replace the entire switch. There is no repair procedure for this type of damage. The spring has lost its structure. There are three styles. Most are recessive, and the glass should be removed, in order to dis-anchor the switch housing. If you can relay the entire model number, i will confirm the removal procedure. Thanks..

I had the same problem. Mine was caused by liquid seeping into the infinite switch (the switch that gets rotated by the knob to set burner temperature). This caused one of the live wires to short to ground within the switch. Bad Design IMHO. Replacing the switch fixed the problem (you can get replacement parts at Searspartsdirect.com - search using the cooktop model number).
You first need to remove the unit from its installation. Start by disconnecting the exhaust fan from the ductwork. Then push the cooktop up.
To get at the switch you need to remove the top by taking off only the top row of screws all around the unit and also in the down draft cavity (the down draft cavity is where the grease guard mesh is)

Turn off the circuit breaker to the cooktop. Verify by making sure the burners/fan do not come on. Disconnect the exhaust fan (underneath the cooktop) from the ductwork by removing the tape that joins it. While you are underneath the cooktop, open the junction box. Label the four wires that are joined so that you will be able to connect them later. Then disconnect the four wires. Remove the metal sheating that connects to the junction box (there is a nut on the inside of the junction box that you loosen. Pull out all the supply wires (from the mains) from the junction box. Then push the cooktop up and out and lay it flat on a table with the flat side down.
Take off only the top row of screws all around the unit. Rotate the unit so that you can get to the down draft cavity (the down draft cavity is where the grease guard mesh is). Remove the two center screws. Then pull the black top off.

For an exploded view of the unit check out
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=47639&diagram_id=681565#d681565

I do not know to what degree your cook top is disassembled. So I have include the diagrams of all the components. As is would be a rather long explanation to give you on how to reassemble everything only the diagrams are included. Sometimes that's all you need to reassemble things. However if you need specific's please just let me know exactly which section you need help with.

Also the listing is for JED 8430 and 87946 so if the diagrams don't look correct let me know.

Hope this helps.

Hi, W/D here.

The plenum is the box the blower assembly attaches to. The blower pulls the cooking vapors down the plenum (well) and discharges through the duct.
Best regards, W/D

i would use the 50amp better to be to big then to small

if the hs ind light does not turn off then that particular heating elemnt needs to be replaced.heat sensor is built in the elemnt.when elemnt is turned off and it cools down it makes a switch to open and inturn ind light turns off.but sometimes thst gets stuck and light remains on.but do not worry abt element,it remains off,its just that indicator light that remains on.

Hi there,

If there are no good instructions, I would suggest matching the markings on the switch next to each terminal.eg, match terminal marking on old switch as L1 to marking on new switch as L1. The markings are industry standard and should match from old switch to new switch.

Good Luck!!
Thanks

hi.gud day...tnx for question.im gerbee here in the phillipines, the problem of the the unit is have an dirt or water,& oil coz why the unit is not stoping cliking sound.the best thing to is clean the area were the problem it is,first unplug the unit & turn in off the gas line for the safety..get the vacium & bottle of thinner...first remove all the knobs of the control valve(make sure to remember how to remove the knobs coz if turn back as how you remove it). then drops some thinner located on valve switches(knobs position) 5-10ml,,,then put the vaccium in the place were u drop the thinner to suction the thinner,oil & some dirt.try 2 times for good result...after this if is not work n nid to call an expert tecnician to dismantle & clean the micro swicth one by one(no nid to replace the parts)
tnx gerbee