20 Most Recent Jenn-Air JCD2295HES Side by Side Refrigerator Questions & Answers

From your description I'll gather you're not getting ice cubes either and need to replace the ice maker

 

Part # D7824706Q on the diagram labeled "Lights and Ice maker" it's item 1

This is from Sears so you can order and have it delivered to the house

 

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Jenn-air-Parts/Refrigerator-Parts/Model-JCD2295HES/1266/0165000?pathTaken=

FREEZER /FRIDGE NOT COOLING: Optimum refrigerator temperature at or below40° F(4° C). The freezer temperature should be0° F(-18° C). Check temperatures periodically. Appliance thermometers are the best way of knowing these Check ur cold control thermostat, ur thermistors in both fridge and freezer ( they should be checked for both ohms and for amount of current being put out as per ur model ), ur air flow vent from freezer to fridge.( to make sure it opens and closes without any restrictions) On thermistors check for A close circuit and amount of ohms not just an Ohm reading. As per ur model. Most should atleast show 1200 ohms. Also Check door seals for leakage. Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited. FAN check to see if it is operating or restricted A fan that is not blowing or restricted will not circulate the cold air properly. Often, the first thing that folks do when their refrigerator starts to feel warm is turn both controls on the coldest settings.This is exactly the WRONG thing to do.Turning the cold control to the coldest settingwillkeep the compressor running longer and make lots of cold air. But turning the air door to the coldest settingclosesthe airway to the food section. Lots of cold air is made, but most of it stays in the freezer section, and the food section actually getswarmer. Condenser Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator. May also need to check the defrost timer, u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad? Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next. Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance.. THE COMPRESSOR: If you hear a clicking sound coming from the back of your refrigerator/freezer, then the problem is most likely the compressor, relay and or capacitor is overheating or not getting proper power and will not start.The compressor is the component on your refrigerator that allows your refrigerator to cool. If this component is not working properly your refrigerator will stop cooling. Most of the time the compressor is not the component that has failed. To check ur compressor with multi meter: Disconnect and remove the relay and capacitor from compressor, some located next to compressor in a casing. You wills see 3 prongs coming out of compressor. 1 goes to ur srtart winding, 1 goes to ur run winding and the center goes to ur ground. Place ur meter connector or prong on the start prong and the other on the ground (center prong) take note of the reading in OHMS for example 5 ohms. Next place meter prong on run prong and the center ground prong agin. Take note of the reading in OHMS. Example 4 ohms Next place meter prong on the start prong and the other on the run prong, now take note of the reading example 9 ohms. Now match the total of this ohms test with the total of ur two separate test. 9 ohms, if they match ur ok give or take 5 percent plus or minus. One more test to make to test of there is a short in compressor attach meter prong to ground prong and rub the other end of meter prong to metal ( scrape the metal clean of paint and test on metal surface not painted surface. If it shows continuity or ohms , u have a short in ur compressor. It should show infinity Lastly you should also check ur THERMISTORS in the freezer and fridge section for continuity OHMS and for amount of OHMS current being put out. In most models around 13000 ( give or take 150 ohms) ohms is required. Read more:http://removeandreplace.com/2013/10/31/fix-refrigerator-freezer-wont-cool-freeze/#ixzz3WDEo5NDJ REMEMBER GOD IS THE REASON FOR GOOD ADVICE"

This is another one for the user manual! Always check it first. It would seem likely that the system is either time or water flow controlled. By this I mean that somehow your little red light is caused to light up. For example by a little device which can measure how much water you've used. This device could need resetting. Try contacting manufacturer

yes or u could have a defrost issue

Check the cold control thermostat setting maybe you set it to max. put both controls on middle of whatever numbers you have on them and if its already on middle or at minimum setting still it freezing everything you need to replace to Cold Controller Thermostat

There is a good chance that the heater in the freezer is not working. If it is not working the coils in the freezer do not defrost and you won't be cooling either side. [cooling coils are froze up and the air fan cannot deliver cold air to either side and air fan cannot remove warm air from either side]. You might also want to check the defrost timer switch.

Apparently it is the drain behind the freezer panel on the inside and it is blocked. It needs to be unblocked and cleaned. You remove the food and the rear panel on the inside of the freezer. With a hair dryer (carefully) remove all ice build up and then unblock the drain line going to the pan under the refrigerator. The drain line can be cleaned with bi-carb and hot water (not boiling).

This is a common problem with this unit. You will need to replace the control board located in the refrigerator section. Here is the part to order.

The arm should be down for ice production. If you have ice cubes still in there slots that would indicate ice maker failure. If the slots ar empty fill them with tap water and allow them to freeze. If after the water freezes and the ice maker drops the ice into ice bin and then does not refill with water then that points to the dual water control valve.Jenn-Air uses the Whirlpool style modular icemaker=> 61005508 Ice Maker Assembly or D7824706Q Ice Maker Assembly they are both the same ice maker and the dual watercontrol valve is Click Here=> 67005154 Water Inlet Valve
or 67005154 Inlet Valve Below is a clip about Broke Ice Maker's and has some great tips and test but if you do not prefer working around electricity I ask that you not do the water fill test unless you are comfortable working aronud 120 VAC Click=> HERE I will be here should you have questions. If helpful please rat this solution. Thank You, Sea Breeze