20 Most Recent HP Compaq Presario Media Center SR1750NX (EL445AA) PC Desktop Questions & Answers

the PSU has fan, does it spin and blow. Seems to me. the PSU is bad. 5/12 is ok but there 20/24 pin connector is way more important that that legacy 4 pin . my guess is the Cd driver ejects ok. re-seated memory , i guess. (tried 1 at a time is the way !) tried in bank 0 (lowest number) one at a time. the voltage are here, do the bench test on it , all power pins. see that 3.3v? unplug it, jumper wire the correct 2 pins pin 16 to 17 on modern PCs (24pin) your PSU stays on, but some have really poor power checks. so the unstated SCREEN , with power on last. shows, no SIGnAL, no sync, warnings.? (or out of range) no text ever. on said screen. what video card is there, or is this onboard video., on mobo direct vga jack? yes it does but is there a addin video card there.? count VGA jacks, 2 means it has adding card. onboard is here. ATI Radeon Xpress 200 shared video memory (UMA) http://www.pcdied.com/power.html I think the PSU is bad, one other way it can go bad is to incorrectly time the Power _OK pin, timing.(output) see this many times, this pin tells the mobo power is ok. if it sticks at ok, the Mobo can not function, if this pin lies. the PSU tells the mobo power is ok then if the mobo power regs fail, then the mobo sends Power_on to false and the PSU shuts down. in your case the Power_ok seems stuck ok. falsely. or can be. the thing to know is the power regulators are in the PSU and the MOBO, and both must be good. or it will be dead. we bench test all PSUs and even swap them , to be sure it is ok, if yes, ok then the mobo is bad (if all loads removed first) all hdd,/dvd/cd drive. out. (cables pulled) all addin cards removed ! all of them. if present (look for them) all memory out and put back 1 by 1. RIP MOBO

http://pcsupport.about.com/od/toolsofthetrade/tp/passrecovery.htm

http://pcsupport.about.com/od/toolsofthetrade/tp/passrecovery.htmhope this can help you.READ CAREFULY.

Some programs that will help you do a recovery disk is Norton Ghost, Acronis, and some others.
I recomend you to use Norton Ghost thou that one is very easy to use.


Good luck to you

Nic

i would remove power and blow out the dust in the fan and then power it back up but i am gussing you have bad power supply. these are easy to replace and you can get the power supply model number and order one online
good luck

Hi Sleekorr , All you need to do is to follow steps below1. You need to make sure that you are 100% sure you placed the hardware/s (parts of your computer) properly2. If your not sure try to remove and put it back properly 3. Remove the memory module ( rectangular device connected on the motherboard of your computer and the color of it is green ) you can remove it by pushing the white notch going to the side (the white notch is located on both end where the memory module was connected ) once you already remove the memory module wipe the gold portion of the memory module using a clean cloth.4. After that put it back to the slot where you remove . you can put it back by placing first (gently) the tip of the memory module going to the slot ,then push it holding the both ends of the memory module going to the slot on the motherboard automatically the white notch will be lock after pushing it to the slot location on the motherboard.5.Close the Panel of the casing and it must be 100% close ( No Bulged at all on sides) 6.plug back in the cable of the monitor /keyboard etc.Hope I was able to make you smile good luck and be careful

have to be a little more clear with the question depends on where you want them removed if the computer oh intalar system for a non-dvd if the system goes to control panel and look for oction says oh add remove program
if you want to put a DVD without need only to plug the computer and remove the cable and put the other one wants to

Hey Tina and thanks for using fixya, there can be 2 possibilities. 1 your power supply may have blown during the power serge, if that is so then your problems are minimal, switching out a power supply is cheap and easy, you can pick up a standart power supply that supports both ATA and SATA motherboards and just takes 4 or 5 screws to replace. 2. *********** board may have suffered damage from the serge, in most cases this happens with a lightning strike. I would take your machine to a reputable computer shot and have it tested should not cost more that 10 or 20 bucks for the tech to test your board this will take the guess work out of the diagnosis. if the mother board test good replace the power supply here is a generic link that shows you how to do it. hope this helps and let me know how it went. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HJvYGtbwmh8

Hi!

It is very unlikely to get the machine working when the windows 7 HDD was installed in a different type of computer, because all drivers installed with the operating system are related to the hardware from the other computer.
The best solution is to make a clean install, using the windows installation disk, and after that to download from Compaq's site the latest drivers.

If you still have reasons to use that previous installation, you can try to do the following:

1. Boot from the Windows installation disk
2. Follow all steps until it discovers the previous installation on the HDD
3. Choose to repair it (or better upgrade, if this option is available).

But doing so there only 50-50 chances to get it work, or to get it to be stable.

Hope it helped.

Regards,

It sounds to me that it could be bad ram.If you have two chips in the pc,try taking one or the other out to see if it will boot.

Unfortunately, this cannot be solved online but you would need to get it to a repair centre because the processor has been fried.

This is usually done in the BIOS configuration.

As long as you don't get a powerful, top of the line one, it will work just fine. Get one like
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814161315

The Green light flashing on the Power Supply is a diagnostic LED light.
Flashing indicates a bad Power Supply.
Replace the Power Supply.

BEFORE you start:
1) Buy a can of compressed air for computers.
If the computer is dirty inside, and the Power Supply, use the can of air to clean.
Attach the plastic straw to the can of air's nozzle, break off the lock tab on the top of the nozzle.

Computer on a table, computer unplugged from power, computer case open.
Observe Anti-Static Precautions.

Anti-Static Precautions:
Your body carries Static electricity.
Static WILL fry out (Short Circuit) the hardware components inside a computer.

Power unplugged to the computer, TOUCH the metal frame of the open computer case.
This action will relieve your body of Static.
Should you leave your computer in the middle of working on it, upon your return be SURE to Touch the metal frame again.

Start at the top of the inside of the computer with the can of air, and go across from one side to the other.
Drop down a row, and spray air again.
(Squeeze the trigger in all the way when you start, let go when you reach the other side.
Just like a spray painter would)

Keep dropping down, and going across in rows, until you reach the bottom of the computer case.
In cleaning you'll run across the Processor Fan, and Heatsink.
This is a typical Fan/Heatsink combo, to illustrate. (Yours may look different),

http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=3451342&CatId=493

The object under the Fan is the Heatsink.

[Typical construction of a Heatsink is a plate of metal with tall, thin fins protruding from it.
The plate of metal absorbs heat from whatever object it is placed against. {In this case the Processor. It is placed against the top of the Processor's case, with thermal paste in-between}
The tall, thin fins absorb heat from the plate, and radiate the heat away.
If a fan is used in conjunction with a Heatsink, as in this case, the air flow from the fan helps to dissipate the heat away from the fins]

Pay special attention to cleaning the fins of the Heatsink. They must be as clear as possible, and unrestricted from foreign material.
The Fan's blades, center hub, and surrounding cage, (Shroud), must be clean also. You may find that using Q-tips to break the surface of the 'Gunk' may help. Then the can of air can remove it. ('Gunk'. Dirt, dust, etc)

When using the can of air on the Fan, Do Not spin the fan too fast. Use short bursts of air.
(Press the trigger in all the way, let go quickly)
Spinning the fan faster than it was designed for may lead to premature failure of the fan's bearings.

To open the computer case, and remove the Power Supply:

Working on a table, remove all cables to the computer tower. If you are not sure where they go, (Pay particular attention to the speaker cables), this is the time to make notes, and possibly a drawing.
Open the computer case.

Facing the Front of the computer the Left side panel removes.
Facing the back of the computer there is a Thumb screw to remove.
It's in the middle on the edge. (Facing the back of the computer it's on the Right side)
The Thumbscrew does not remove all the way. Loosen it.
Use the formed handle in the side panel to pull the side panel back, then lift it off.
Lay the computer on it's side on a towel on the table. Open side up.

I'm looking at a Compaq Presario SR1517CL right now, from out of my shop.
Uses the same computer case design as the Presario SR1750NX.
I found no direct links to give you on HP Support for the SR1750NX except for the Specifications.
I would like you to download the PDF file - Upgrading and Servicing Guide for the SR1517CL.
This way you'll have a guide with illustrations for the following,

http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/manualCategory?lc=en&dlc=en&cc=us&lang=en&product=501776&


On the back of the computer are 4 Philips head screws to remove, which hold the Power Supply to the computer case.
On the back of the computer, and at the top of the computer case.
(Where the small fan is, and you plug in the power cord)
One on the Top Left, one on the Top Right, one on the Bottom Right, and the last one on the bottom left.

Once these screws are removed the Power Supply is free.
There are several power cables to remove now.

1) The 20-pin ATX main power cable:

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#atxmain20

The middle photo, and the photo to the right, show you the plastic Lock on the side of the connector.
It is hinged in the middle, and works on the same principle as a see-saw on a playground.
The photo to the left shows you the female connector on the motherboard, that this power cable plugs into.
Note the Lock Tab on the side.

The Top of the Lock on the power cable is squeezed in. This action brings it's hooked end away from the Lock Tab. Holding the Connector, wiggle it gently as you pull it up, and out. Do Not pull on the wires!

2) The 4-pin ATX +12 Volt power cable:

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#atx12v4

Removing is the same principle as the 20-pin ATX main power cable.

3) Standard 4-pin Peripheral power cable:

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#peripheral

Power to the optical drive/s, and perhaps a computer case fan.
Note the rounded corners used for aligning when plugging in.

4) The SATA power cable:

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#sata

Power for the SATA harddrive. Note that there are two connectors going to the harddrive.
The SATA power cable coming from the power supply is the longer one. Only plugs in, in one direction.
(The smaller connector is for the Data cable)

The Power Supply is just an ATX model. One used in over 80 percent of desktop computers out there.
(The ATX form factor for a Power Supply refers to it's power supply case shape, and size.
Approximately 6 inches Wide, 5-1/2 inches Long, and 3-1/2 inches Tall)

It is probably a generic unit made by Bestec, HiPro, Delta, or Maxpower.
300 Watt.
(You can use a larger Wattage power supply. Won't hurt the computer. A computer ONLY uses the power it needs, and No more)

It uses DDR SDRAM rather than the newer DDR2 or DDR3.
Please rate my post?
Thanks
Bob

Pull the power cord out and allow it to reset. If you still have issues you may need to replace your power supply.

If it is the video going on when it freezes, then you can try the following link.
http://support.microsoft.com/gp/video_freezes_or_crashes

Multiple antivirus softwares may cause problems because they may not cooperate well. A lot of wrong settings may cause performance issue too. You can check for those with the following link.
http://support.microsoft.com/gp/slow_windows_performance

Some corrupted entries in your registry may affect the performance.
You can scan for virus and tune up your PC by using the following link.
http://onecare.live.com/site/en-us/default.htm?s_cid=sah

Otherwise can you observe what applications are running when it crashes. That application may be causing some resource bottleneck of your system. If it is a big graphic transaction program then your graphic card may need an update. You may remove or unload that application and see how it'd go if you remember that application. Sometimes a program connecting to an Internet server for update all the time will take all your resources while running for a while. To see what is running, you can open task manager by pressing Ctrl+Del+Alt at the same time. To see what is loaded when your computer starts, you can use the msconfig command (by typing it in the command bar opened by clicking Start->Run) and check the startup programs and services. If you want to see what is running during the crash, then you will need to setup the dump file to be written. Details about that can be found with the following link.
http://support.microsoft.com/kb/315263

At a guess I would say PATA rather than SATA (ie IDE) but have a look here for specs

http://www.cyberindian.net/2006/07/27/compaq-presario-sg1138il-desktop-pc/