Thermador SC302T Electric Double Oven - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Hello,

Welcome to FixYa.

The issue with these displays is they lose their intensity over time because of the fluorescent tube technology they use, hence the only remedy is to replace the control/display kit...the display only is not available, but a "kit" is.

You can find these "display kits" at "repairclinic.com" and similar to what I've attached here...




**Your other option, and the one I recommend, is to have the existing display and control rebuilt...the down side is this will require the parts to be removed and sent away**

Here you'll find all the info pertaining to this option by clicking on the link I've provided below

http://www.corecentricsolutions.com/CCSWeb.nsf/published/bosch

Hope this helps move you forward. Let me know if I can assist you further and good luck.

Regards,

Macmarkus :)

Sounds like you have a real POS on your hands. I would chuck it and get another unit rather than waste any more time and money on this Thermador.

most thermal switchs are not resetable and have to be replaced

Same issue w/our Thermador CM301. F23 and F24 codes - BSH acts like they have never heard of the problem! Awful service. This should be reported to the Consumer Board.

One of the first things I check on any heating device besides the element is the High limit switches that only allow the element to work if the heat stays below a certain degree range. They areon furnaces, dryers, wall heaters, etc. They usually look the size of a small coin abouit 3/4 -1" with little wings on the side to for screws to secure them. That may be your problem.

1.Even a bad relay door switch will hinder your oven from operating. If your oven has internal fuses, a wiring or component problem could have caused a fuse to blow. A blown fuse is an indication that a component has shorted or failed, and the problem will need to be corrected. Most ovens that use fuses will have an indication of the circuits that are affected by a particular fuse. If an oven fuse has blown, then you should inspect the oven element and the associated wiring to determine the cause before replacing the fuse. THINGS TO CHECK: the broil element is the heating element that is found at the top of the oven and produces a very high heat for broiling. If the broil element isn't working, you should first do a visual inspection for signs that the element has blistered or separated. If the element appears normal then you can check for continuity with a multi-meter. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test. Remove the back panel and locate the terminals for the broil element and inspect the terminals and wires for signs of overheating or damage. If there is no continuity then the element will need to be replaced. If the wires are damaged then they will need to be repaired. If the element is ok then you will need to check the broil circuit to determine the cause. This involves live voltage checks and should only be performed by qualified persons. Components to check include fuses, if the range is equipped, and oven control thermostat or electronic control. Depending on the manufacturer of the element, you will normally read between 19 ohms and 115 ohms The bake element is the heating element that is found at the bottom of the oven. Most electric ovens use both the bake element and the broil element in a bake cycle, with the bake element performing 90% of the heating. If the bake element isn't working, the oven may not heat. To help determine if the bake element is defective you should first do a visual check. If the element is blistered or separated then it should be replaced. If the element appears to look normal, then turn the oven on to a bake function for a minute and then turn it off. Check the element for signs of heating and if it is still cold then it may be defective. Disconnect the power and then remove the back panel. First check the wires as they may have become loose or corroded. If the element appears to be fine visually, test it for continuity with a multi-meter. ( by placing the each of the meter prongs on each end of the heater element connectors) If the element is burned or no longer has continuity, it will need to be replaced. Depending on the manufacturer of the element, you will normally read between 19 ohms and 115 ohms The oven safety valve (also called the gas valve) is the part that ensures that gas is not released until the igniter has reached the correct temperature needed to ignite the gas. While this part can fail, it is uncommon. If the hot surface igniter does not glow you should first verify that you have voltage to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If voltage is lost at the valve terminals then you should verify the continuity of the bi-metal in the valve using a multi-meter. I offer free advice bcuz God is so good!

Thermostats are resettable, thermal fuse aren't, they can only be replaced. Good Luck I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gere_bf68e6055dd61249

Check this link for possible solution. It says that a function key may be stuck or you may have a problem with a control board. Thermador Fault Codes AppliancePartsPros com

may be a shorted element, but could be almost ANY shorted item. Look at the board for a better idea of exactly which relay is blowing and trace it back. Otherwise a complete disassembly and testing of all components will be needed.

need new display board repair kit.

try having it rebuilt at core centric solutions dot com. they bring new life to most old electronics.

air flow/fan issue in the upper oven.

these are NLA. No Longer Available. Try to get something that is acceptable to you and fits by researching "oven Knobs" at repair clinic dot com and selecting by looks and size.

bad condenser on the display board. The display has to be replaced.

this is very simple for a tech. Not to be rude, but if you cannot figure out how these come off, there is nothing you are capable of repairing on the inside. you would be better off to call in a technician to repair it.

what do you mean? an f34 is a fan failure code.

different brands, different models, different temps. they al range from 900 degrees up to 1300 degrees.

What is your question?

turn the breaker off at the home circuit panel.

replace the ERC on unit.